Does anyone have a video on how to rotate the white plastic, so that the air hole lines up with the wick? Any help would be appreciated.
Currently Own: Provari Satin Finish V1, Katana V2, Zenesis AYS, iHybrid v1, iHybrid Blue Dragon LE, Gunmetal iHybrid v2.1
The best way to put it all back together is to have a battery in the katana and just lock the switch. The battery in the tube will support the post and keep it from breaking loose.
The V1 connector in the top cap is not mechanically coupled to the positive post as it is in V2 and V3, but I have never had any issues with the V1.
All the V1 Katanas had the air inlet hole lined up properly. In V2 it was turned 180 degrees. Though it should not have made a difference, in use it did make a big difference so V3 had the air hole lined back up to the front of the wick again.
The threading in the top cap of the V2 and V3 is much finer than in the V1.
The V1 top cap is not polished, the other runs have the top cap polished.
The switch in V2 and V3 are identical and an improvement to the V1, but truth be told, the V1 switch is smoother. The V2 and V3 switch also have room in them to allow using magnets in them instead of the stock spring. The V1 could use magnets but everything I tried is too thick to allow enough magnets in there to make the switch strong enough to stand without activating the mod.
The tank cover threads are also a bit wider in the V3 & V2 than they are in the V1.
Had the pleasure of meeting up with my buddy Armen at the Los Angeles Vapers club vape meet this weekend! He set me up with HEAPS of free juice and mesh (both 400 and 325)!! The only way he'd let me reciprocate his incredible generosity was helping him to get his Katana v2 up and running, which I'm happy to say, now is working flawlessly! I also got my insanely modified scubagen v3 in the mail on saturday, which I'm struggling to get working how I want it to...might just be the new 325 wick I installed, but there's a strong possibility that i'm just an idiot who can't figure out why I'm getting hot spots by the + post!! I have it running ok now, but if I have any more issues and/or the flavor doesn't improve, I'll throw up some pics and see what everyone has to say about it.
For the Scubagen v3, the hotspot by the + and or - poles are normal at first because of the length of wire in open air. these can be tamed by putting a drop of juice on them and firing repeatedly till enough carbon is formed over the kanthal to prevent the heat buildup there. If you tweak the mesh just a little bit to get it closer to the poles it eliminates this. If you are doing the DC thing with it then it is alot harder to just tweak the tolerances down, but the building the carbon deposits on the kanthal will still work.
The coils might actually just get too hot to form the carbon with juice (especially if it's a DC), in which case you may just need to put it there with a bic... not the most elegant solution, but it works
I have a scubagen v3 and it works great but it's just so big I rarely use it
Mine isn't your average scubagen v3
It's been shortened to house a 5ml tank, the wick holes have been straightened, a second grounded post was added to run 2 coils, the airflow hole was bored out to 5/64", and the nasty clear plastic top cap was replaced with a beautifully polished SS cap to match the GGTS that it's now sitting on. Thank you Urquidezj! Ill post some pics in a few minutes!