How to see if your atomizer is truly dead with a Voltmeter

[Stormynights]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...VL._SS500_.jpg

[Jim Davis]

OK - The ohms selector is in the green area. You select the lowest number. In your case, it's 10ohms. Remember the 'k' stands for 1000. 1k=1000. If the lowest is 10, set it on 10. Black probe on the threads, and red probe on the center. See what it says. It wont work without a battery in the meter.

[Stormynights]

OK - The ohms selector is in the green area. You select the lowest number. In your case, it's 10ohms. Remember the 'k' stands for 1000. 1k=1000. If the lowest is 10, set it on 10. Black probe on the threads, and red probe on the center. See what it says. It wont work without a battery in the meter.

Do I need to adjust anything? There is a battery in it now.

[Jim Davis]

Just give it a try, and let's see what it says. You'll read the needle by what looks to be the top scale.

[Stormynights]

When I tested a dead atty it didn't move. Then I tested a good one and it moved to 8.

[Jim Davis]

OK now we're getting somewhere. It's been a very long time since I worked with that type of meter. Mine are all digital now.

Anyway;

8 ohms would probably be good since the meter isn't calibrated, and that type of meter isn't as accurate as the digital's, but it's OK for what you want to use it for.

If you have the selector on 10ohms, and touch the two probes together, that would register a dead short.

If it does nothing when you test the atty, it shows that the circuit is open, which would mean a broken coil. (Nothing is connecting the circuit.)

The good atty is probably not 8 ohms, but I would imagine closer to 4. That would be how accurate the meter is. If you have the book that came with the meter, it should tell you how to calibrate it. (Like making sure a scale has to be set to zero before you step on it.)

You're almost there.

[Sun Vaporer]

This is an excellent thread spelling out the "how to" of testing atomizers to make sure they are in fact dead. Whenever I get an order in, I do this to all of them to make sure I did not get any DOA's. Thread Stuck.


Sun

[happily]

I always believed the lower the better with ohms and dead attys always go up

[Stormynights]

OK now we're getting somewhere. It's been a very long time since I worked with that type of meter. Mine are all digital now.

Anyway;

8 ohms would probably be good since the meter isn't calibrated, and that type of meter isn't as accurate as the digital's, but it's OK for what you want to use it for.

If you have the selector on 10ohms, and touch the two probes together, that would register a dead short.

If it does nothing when you test the atty, it shows that the circuit is open, which would mean a broken coil. (Nothing is connecting the circuit.)

The good atty is probably not 8 ohms, but I would imagine closer to 4. That would be how accurate the meter is. If you have the book that came with the meter, it should tell you how to calibrate it. (Like making sure a scale has to be set to zero before you step on it.)

You're almost there.

Thank you Jim for your help. I still have so much to learn but I am a lot better off now thanks to you and the others that took the time to help. I always loved Red Skelton.

[Jim Davis]

My RN4081 and M401 attys register roughly between 3.5 to 4 ohms when good. The higher the reading, the more resistance, which is not good. When a heating coil breaks, you'll get no reading, as the circuit is broken. In the case of atomizers, when the coil breaks, the burnt crap touching the coils have resistance. that's where you get the 5k 20k 30k readings. The crap is completing the electrical circuit, but is useless for anything.

If you get a decent meter, and take the probes in each hand, press your thumbs into the probe ends, the meter will measure the resistance going through your body.