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Pen Atomizer Thread for Mod's in Modding Forum; OK, I used that same thing that breakfastchef did, but I couldn't find a screw with a small enough head ...
  1. #11
    Super Member ECF Veteran planetofthevapes's Avatar
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    OK, I used that same thing that breakfastchef did, but I couldn't find a screw with a small enough head lying around. So, I took a small bit of tubing from a fish tank bubble air system thingy...it was too small to fit snug. So, i took that same length of shrink wrap (the stuff used for shrinking over wire solders and things) and fit it over the fish tubing...then inserted in the middle of that jack. Then, I took a screw with a flat tip (and I chose one that would require a flat head screw driver, I'll explain why later) and screwed it UP through my little tubing that I squished in the center of the jack. Once it protruded up a bit past the plastic tubing, I put my atomizer on it, then pushed the whole tubing section up just a bit to make perfect contact (it's snug but does allow for some pushing from the atomizer and from the user to make perfect contact each time a new atomizer is put on, in case it needs adjusted, it has a bit of slack)...I then soldered my positive lead into the flat head screw driver slot (it works so perfectly that after soldering, it looks like a wire going into a metal pin, this sucker won't come loose!). VOILA...works perfectly. The flat tip of the screw makes EXCELLENT contact with the positive contact on the atomizer. Oh, and be sure to use a very fine threaded (not deep) screw that doesn't QUITE slide right through the tubing that you fit in there...that way it screws in with just a bit of force, but doesn't chew up the tubing and ruin it...would hate to eat part of it away and cause a short.

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  3. #12
    PV Master ECF Veteran Jim Davis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinear View Post
    could you perhaps use a set screw?
    Remember that if you're trying to fit up with an existing part, these things are made overseas and 99.9% of them are metric. Most set screws with the Allen type heads are also hardened and will be a bitch to work with. Stainless is also hard to work with.

    I would love to get a hold of one piece of every atomizer & battery connector made, in order to measure the thread sizes and make a chart. This is really the first step, to identify each piece. The rest will fall into place.

    If you really want to get into something like this, I say the first step is to look into an adult education program in your area, and take a basic machine shop course. (If you don't already know the basics.)

  4. #13
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    I think what someone needs to do is ask if we can buy some of the 801 atomizer connectors from one of the manufacturers... that would be ideal if I could buy a bag of 10-20 battery connections for 10$

  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by first2di3 View Post
    I think what someone needs to do is ask if we can buy some of the 801 atomizer connectors from one of the manufacturers... that would be ideal if I could buy a bag of 10-20 battery connections for 10$
    That would be great, but, depending on the type of mod you are making, factory atomizer connectors do not always work well. If you look at your atomizer, the center condutor is recessed into the barrel. On some models, the conductors is recessed more than others. You will also note that batteries are just lightly smaller in diameter so when you screw on the atomizer, it can screw in deep enough so the center contacts meet.

    If you took a standard battery connector and made, say, a JuicyBox clone using a AA project box from Radio Shack, you would be mounting the factory connector to a flat surface. That flat surface prevents the atomizer from screwing down enough for the center contcts to meet requiring that you cut the atomizer down. I know, I have a JuicyBox mod that required that I modifiy an atomizer in order to work.

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