901 atomizer disassembly

[RandallFlagg]

Need coffee before writing numbers down. Meanwhile a couple movies to watch-

Warning: if you don't like flaming e-juice movies, don't waste your time on these.

First, a drip at 2.5V, .75A on that last kanthal ribbon coil.
http://img531.imageshack.us/img531/4951/mvi5153fk6.flv

Next, a drip at 3.3V, 1A.
http://img531.imageshack.us/img531/6233/mvi5152os2.flv

Finally, 6V, 1.75A we reach take-off temperature.
http://img531.imageshack.us/img531/540/mvi5151eg7.flv

I'm wasting alot of juice, where do I get glycol locally? Drug store?

Try a farm supply shop.
Or a cigar shop.

[mogur]

Thank you, thank you. I live out in the sticks, but have a farm supply down the road.

[Rogue X2 v2]

thx 4 the autopsy, mogur! hope you gave ur e-cig a decent burial?! or did you cremated it? LOL!

[mogur]

thx 4 the autopsy, mogur! hope you gave ur e-cig a decent burial?! or did you cremated it? LOL!

I'm keeping the body parts to make a MONSTER. I'm waiting on the next lightning storm....

[mogur]

I'm a little disappointed this morning. I used a very short (.625") piece of NiCr60 measuring 2.7 Ω to compare to the long one I used yesterday. The hope was to confirm what all the literature had told me about the relationship between amperage and temperature of a resistance wire, i.e., that only amperage uniquely determines temperature for a fixed dia. wire. So, a 10 Ω .004" dia NiCr60 wire yesterday broke at 1.18 amps. Today, the 2.7 Ω .004" dia NiCr60 wire broke at .90 amps. Even more significant was the fact that at .64 A in the short coil the color was orange, while the long coil yesterday didn't turn orange until .74 A.

Well, I'm waiting on a K thermocouple meter on the next slow boat, so I'm suspending these experiments until I know what temperatures we are actually dealing with. I'm going to build a mod today, instead.

[kinabaloo]

I'm a little disappointed this morning. I used a very short (.625") piece of NiCr60 measuring 2.7 Ω to compare to the long one I used yesterday. The hope was to confirm what all the literature had told me about the relationship between amperage and temperature of a resistance wire, i.e., that only amperage uniquely determines temperature for a fixed dia. wire. So, a 10 Ω .004" dia NiCr60 wire yesterday broke at 1.18 amps. Today, the 2.7 Ω .004" dia NiCr60 wire broke at .90 amps. Even more significant was the fact that at .64 A in the short coil the color was orange, while the long coil yesterday didn't turn orange until .74 A.

Well, I'm waiting on a K thermocouple meter on the next slow boat, so I'm suspending these experiments until I know what temperatures we are actually dealing with. I'm going to build a mod today, instead.

mogur - not surprising at all really - the heat is spread out in the longer coil, within the extra metal and presenting a greater area for heat loss by both radiation (IR) and convection.

It is not necessary however to aim for the smallest coil - with a mod power capacity is not such an issue and a bit bigger could give a more decent vapor without burning the juice Just will require more current to get to the same temp.

[forcedfuel50]

Cool experiments Mogur...very informative...

[coldgeo]

Hey, Mogur, why not use something like Pt or Au wire? I understand it is expensive, but it is relatively quite nonreactive and could potentially make a longer lasting coil. Is it because of the amount of heat required to take it to the vaporization point? Further, what is the 'vaporization point' with respect to the coil and the liquid and what will be considered the optimal surface area and temperature?

I'm highly interested in this DIY style. You're kicking some major ass, man.

[kinabaloo]

Hey, Mogur, why not use something like Pt or Au wire? I understand it is expensive, but it is relatively quite nonreactive and could potentially make a longer lasting coil. Is it because of the amount of heat required to take it to the vaporization point? Further, what is the 'vaporization point' with respect to the coil and the liquid and what will be considered the optimal surface area and temperature?

I'm highly interested in this DIY style. You're kicking some major ass, man.

Welcome.

Atomiser coils fail primarily because a burnt deposit of dry residues from the juice builds up. Solution: improved juice formulations.

To reach vaporising temp reasonably quickly when the coil is wet requires a power in (about 3w) that is sufficient to take the coil to red-hot when it is dry. Two solutions: feed coil by piezo from valved container and detect when container is low; temperature control the heater coil.

[coldgeo]

So, it would be possible then to clean a dead atomizer's coil and restore functionality? What exactly is flawed in the liquid's design?

Sorry to derail this topic.