Another possible heat source

[ccure]

The other issue that you have to take in account, is the time it will take to get hot enough to produce the vapor. I have done so far 3 attys and have failed on that. Last one took about 3 seconds to heat enough to produce the vapor at 2.5v. I am working on the 4th I hope to lower the time to less than a second. I really need it to work that fast at 2.5v.

[Kewtsquirrel]

The other issue that you have to take in account, is the time it will take to get hot enough to produce the vapor. I have done so far 3 attys and have failed on that. Last one took about 3 seconds to heat enough to produce the vapor at 2.5v. I am working on the 4th I hope to lower the time to less than a second. I really need it to work that fast at 2.5v.

Why 2.5v? Seems aiming for 5v would be a better solution - instant USB compatability and its not hard to drop 2x rcr123a's to 5v with a regulator.

Edit: Also, most switching voltage regulators (the ones that operate at 85%+ efficiency) are either 3.3, 5, or 5.5v.

[ccure]

Well, I am thinking in 2.5 v because of the battery discharge. If the coil can heat at that level of voltage, will deliver a more constant drag until fully discharged battery.

[Kewtsquirrel]

A buck/boost voltage regulator will keep a constant voltage until the vin is too low to do it, and then it will just stop working.

It is *very* important to note that you must use protected batteries with a voltage regulator like this, as you'll have no warning that the voltage is getting too low and an unprotected battery will pop.

[RandallFlagg]

This is all Greek to me. Wish I was good at electronics. Being colorblind doesn't help, either.

But the ban is coming, folks.
I'm getting worried here.

[SS109]

Seems this would be the perfect heater for a hot-plate design to keep the heater itself clean and dry.

Add an airhole just above the plate, restrict airflow directly over the plate so air would have to pass over it and vapor would escape through an opening opposite the airhole when inhaled. With no actual parts coming in contact with the area that would get dirty, a recirculating cleaner pump like the one I rigged up for the 901 attys could work great. Pressure isn't an issue when the fluid isn't touching anything that can get damaged.

ETA: Mspaint diagram!

I had a similiar idea but just a touch different. The key would be controlling the heat that the juice would see and unfortunately I don't have the knowledge on how to do that.



Sorry, my Photoshop skills are not the best.

[Kewtsquirrel]

****, your drawing is way better than mine, although I prefer my idea as it seems like it would be easier to clean.

[SS109]

Thanks.

The cleaning wouldn't be bad on my idea. The SS cover would totally enclose the heating element. All you would need, in the extreme, is a wire type toothbrush like used for cleaning firearms. Hell, you could use a Dremel with one of the wire wheel attachments and clean it in about 30 seconds!

[RandallFlagg]

So, any update on this? Would they work?

[leavitodeaver]

it sounds plausible, you guys are great for brainstorming. i've been up all night just reading this stuff and getting all sorts of mad scientist ideas. i like the heating element without the wick idea, i was thinking about trying it with the element wrapped about the cart, but inside is intriguing, you'd be able to remove the cart completely instead of some kind of screw on cap. the only problem i can see is inhaling liquid, is there some kind of material that lets vapor pass uninhibited but blocks liquid? some kind of finely cross-threaded mesh maybe?