Atomizer Cleaning

[Elfod]

After having a 510 for a couple of weeks, and getting off analogs after 50 years, I noticed that I was not getting as much vapor now, as a while ago. So, I decided to clean the atomizer.
WHAT A DIFFERENCE THIS MADE!!!!
I think it is better than brand new.
Here is what I did:
First flushed atomizer with warm water.
Then used 40 proof vodka (ethanol) and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner for 10 minutes.
Blew the atomizer out and let air dry for 24 hours.
Put back on 510 and it caused my eyeballs to look at the back of my head---huge hit--and it is still going.
Bottom line is that atomizers HAVE TO BE CLEANED.
They probably will last longer also,,,,,,,,,,,

[kinabaloo]

There are two types of solid deposit and one type of liquid residue that cleaning is being used for. Let's clarify these and what we know about each and what we can do about them.

First the liquid residue. By this I mean the excess juice that gets to parts of the atomiser case where it is not used up. This is what draining each night is for. When people use compressed air or boiling then report improvement, this is what they have done - removed the excess juice fluid. Simple draining (place upside down on paper towel) is sufficient for this, whereas compressed air and boiling have inherent dangers.

Second is simple dry residue. This forms when excess juice dries inside the atomiser. When it dries within the metal mesh wicking, it restricts both juice flow and air flow. Some would be removed by a soak or rinse in warm water. Or steam; but steam, like compressed air, risks mechanical damage to the coil and fine connecting wires. Baths that might help remove more dry residue incude detergent and alcohol but the best is probably a weak acid such as citric acid/lemon juice, vinegar and cola. Gently heated is better but boiling is risky (risks include overheating by contact with bottom of pan, bumping around and mechanical damage from bubbles).

Third type is the hardened deposit on the heater coil itself. This is extremely difficult to remove when allowed to build up over weeks (preventative cleaning, of say once or twice per weak with a weak acid might help prevent this build up). It is formed of the dry deposit that originates from the juice (all those substances dissolved in the juice that will not evaporate when heated and are left behind, like limescale in a kettle). Although originally composed of dry residue from the juice, on the coil but mot the metal wick, the deposits are very likely chemically and structurally altered by repeated heating to become over time resistant to removal. This deposit is often the life-limiting factor for atomizers. Two choices here: 1) just accept that atomizers need replacing periodically and keep a supply of backups 2) regular burn-off (Getting Annoyed : This is an effective method of prolonging atomisers).

[Toro]

Hello!
Good result has given me to me to put them firstly in ethanol (40%) and later put it in the dishwasher.

[SS109]

Kinabaloo, great summation of the cause and the cleaning solutions for atomizers.

[kinabaloo]

Kinabaloo, great summation of the cause and the cleaning solutions for atomizers.

Thanks!

SurbitonPete is doing some study of the 'burn-off' technique; looking to be rather effective; need to work out the best protocol (and that will differ somewhat between devices and juices used). Try not to inhale the burn-off fumes (this is a downside to the approach; the other is that it is very tricky without a manual button.

A cooler-running alternative burn-off/bubble-off has been investigated by Exogenesis (Atomizer Cleaned ! Simple Cheap Effective Method.) Follow all the cautions mentioned carefully.

[SS109]

Thanks for the link. I have some ideas myself but will have to wait a bit to put them in to practice and see how things work out.

Thanks!

SurbitonPete is doing some study of the 'burn-off' technique; looking to be rather effective; need to work out the best protocol (and that will differ somewhat between devices and juices used). Try not to inhale the burn-off fumes (this is a downside to the approach; the other is that it is very tricky without a manual button.

A cooler-running alternative burn-off/bubble-off has been investigated by Exogenesis (Atomizer Cleaned ! Simple Cheap Effective Method.) Follow all the cautions mentioned carefully.

[Rogue X2 v2]

I've have read a lot about cleaning the atomizer -- how are you people abusing your e-cigs? I have 2 that I use on a daily basis and a dozen for backups/replacements. I checked the used ones with the spares and they do not look that much different. I have yet to clean any of mine, and they still produce the same amount of vapor as when I first got.

Am I not abusing mine the right way? LOL!

[spark001uk]

So how often roughly would you recommend cleaning? When my first att was new out the box, i rinsed it in hot water, then IPA, then water again. Should i follow that weekly or something?

[pmetzger]

There are two types of solid deposit and one type of liquid residue that cleaning is being used for. Let's clarify these and what we know about each and what we can do about them.

First the liquid residue. By this I mean the excess juice that gets to parts of the atomiser case where it is not used up. This is what draining each night is for. When people use compressed air or boiling then report improvement, this is what they have done - removed the excess juice fluid. Simple draining (place upside down on paper towel) is sufficient for this, whereas compressed air and boiling have inherent dangers.

Second is simple dry residue. This forms when excess juice dries inside the atomiser. When it dries within the metal mesh wicking, it restricts both juice flow and air flow. Some would be removed by a soak or rinse in warm water. Or steam; but steam, like compressed air, risks mechanical damage to the coil and fine connecting wires. Baths that might help remove more dry residue incude detergent and alcohol but the best is probably a weak acid such as citric acid/lemon juice, vinegar and cola. Gently heated is better but boiling is risky (risks include overheating by contact with bottom of pan, bumping around and mechanical damage from bubbles).

Third type is the hardened deposit on the heater coil itself. This is extremely difficult to remove when allowed to build up over weeks (preventative cleaning, of say once or twice per weak with a weak acid might help prevent this build up). It is formed of the dry deposit that originates from the juice (all those substances dissolved in the juice that will not evaporate when heated and are left behind, like limescale in a kettle). Although originally composed of dry residue from the juice, on the coil but mot the metal wick, the deposits are very likely chemically and structurally altered by repeated heating to become over time resistant to removal. This deposit is often the life-limiting factor for atomizers. Two choices here: 1) just accept that atomizers need replacing periodically and keep a supply of backups 2) regular burn-off (Getting Annoyed : This is an effective method of prolonging atomisers).

This should be in the ECF Library, there is so much information on cleaning out there and misinformation that I have personally followed, losing attys as a direct result of.

[lulubell360]

i tried cleaning my atty in coke then hot water yesterday, now i am not getting vapor or hit. did I kill it? help