Attn: atomizer rebuilders

[crazyhorse]

Those crimping pins are pretty small. The problem I see with anything like that or with a connector made out of breadboard is space although a disc of breadboard would be perfect if it could replace the juice cup.

Next week I'll get serious about constructing the best coil out of #36 NiCr. Then I'll build an actual atomizer with solid 20 AWG copper leads and short needle sockets that extend slightly above the surface of the juice cup. While this should work as a bridgeless dripper, a functional cartridge mod will be the deal-breaker for me. I don't have the patience to deal with dripping.

I've been studying the properties of various conductive pastes and it looks like plain ol' Ox-Gard may be as good of a solution as any. Time and testing will tell the tale.

[crazyhorse]

I guess it's time for an update on my project. The update is there's no update. I haven't had a day off since my last posting so I haven't worked on atomizers.

[Vaporer]

Hi guys. Made it back from vacation and I must say vapin on the beach is something I could get used to. Glad I bought a Dura C before leaving. The sound and wind kept all my autos on and hot!
The weather left me quite a mess to clean up. Downed trees from lightning strikes, a dammed up creek that re-dams with every rain from upstream debris......the list goes on.

I should have some pics to post this week from my "plug in" coil project. I dont have any failed attys to try it on. The one I had was my 1st disassembly and a slippage crushed the cup beyond repair. It had a wire broken from the threaded connector. Exposed bridge type from a Blu atty. Blu's attys measure 3.4ohms vs my Mini Fogger & Dura C which are mostly 3.0ohms. One measured 2.7 .

I've read the entire thread with great interest. I see all the coils are wrapped on a form. Close inspection of my failed Blu, prior to disassembly, had no evidence of a wick/form and it produced great vapor. I examined a couple of new ones and see no signs of one.
I had used it daily and cleaned it for abt a month. Slightly spaced wraps with no core greatly increases the exposed heating surface and the coil I reference was going strong failing far from the coil.
I would prefer to avoid the possibility of inhaling fibers and a ceramic core will heat sink the coil seemingly reducing the efficiency. Unless the ceramic reaches a temp that vaporizes the atomized liquid.
Not trying to be critical of any ones work, just thinking out loud.

Great work so far to all.

[kinabaloo]

Hi guys. Made it back from vacation and I must say vapin on the beach is something I could get used to. Glad I bought a Dura C before leaving. The sound and wind kept all my autos on and hot!
The weather left me quite a mess to clean up. Downed trees from lightning strikes, a dammed up creek that re-dams with every rain from upstream debris......the list goes on.

I should have some pics to post this week from my "plug in" coil project. I dont have any failed attys to try it on. The one I had was my 1st disassembly and a slippage crushed the cup beyond repair. It had a wire broken from the threaded connector. Exposed bridge type from a Blu atty. Blu's attys measure 3.4ohms vs my Mini Fogger & Dura C which are mostly 3.0ohms. One measured 2.7 .

I've read the entire thread with great interest. I see all the coils are wrapped on a form. Close inspection of my failed Blu, prior to disassembly, had no evidence of a wick/form and it produced great vapor. I examined a couple of new ones and see no signs of one.
I had used it daily and cleaned it for abt a month. Slightly spaced wraps with no core greatly increases the exposed heating surface and the coil I reference was going strong failing far from the coil.
I would prefer to avoid the possibility of inhaling fibers and a ceramic core will heat sink the coil seemingly reducing the efficiency. Unless the ceramic reaches a temp that vaporizes the atomized liquid.
Not trying to be critical of any ones work, just thinking out loud.

Great work so far to all.

Actually, ceramic is an very poor heat conductor, which is good.

[Vaporer]

You are right on the ceramic. Especially considering an average puff is only 5-10 secs.
This raises many possibilities to me. I could be wrong, that sure wouldn't be a first. lol

The Blu 3.4ohm coil has no form and will run cooler due to higher resistance, but has more exposed coil surface to vaporize.
The 510's at 3ohms should be hotter, but as you say abt the ceramic its a poor heat conductor and may be the surface that allows gunk to start forming since its cooler. It may be needed in the 2.7ohm to actually hold its shape and prevent sagging. 2.7ohms would be hotter yet.
The 3.0ohm fiber cores could adsorb some free liquid and help vapoize it as a direct contact wick. This would cool them a bit on running temp, but also leaves a cooler surface especially at the begining of the puff to start a gunk formation.

I have noticed that some flavors are more pronounced using the Blu. The same liquid tastes diff in the 510 styles.
Also, I've read of people complaining abt a burnt taste that cant be removed with cleaning. Possibly the wick has broken down and lost in cleanings? The extra heat may be burning the juice.

Just more thoughts to consider.......

[nubee]

Hi,

I'm fairly new to vaping and just born to any atty mods but I started out with the Red Draggon ecig. The reviewers liked the fact that each cart came with its own atty so you basically got a new one each time.

I looked it over and rather than the verical/drip approach, it seems to have a round, wound gauze-like cart filler around a verical atty-rod (sort of a horizontal drip).

Wondering if that would simplify the construction of the coil and possibly the connections as they may be simple manual contacts.

[Vaporer]

Any possibilty you could post some pics?

I just rebuilt my DSE601 pipe, converting it to a manual and replaced the atty coil. Working fine!
I took photos of all of it and will have a post on the atty part here and the rest will be posted in the 601 rebuilders thread.

Vaporer

[Vaporer]

After the DSE601 pipe manual conversion my atomizer failed 2 days later. Coil burnt out on one side. The 601's are virtually impossible to clean so they have a very limited life expectancy.
As you can see in the picture it was heavily carboned matching the to 2 feed points.
I rebuilt the atty without completely disassembling it. I soldered the wires to the new coil and fed it in from the top. To aid in soldering I electroplated the ends of the 36ga nichrome wire with copper. I built a "no wick" coil due to lack of materials. I've had attys that when cleaned had no wick and vaped very well. This one doesn't and will be getting a wick. I chatted with Carlos49 abt the silica wood stove rope he used.
This material looks very promising, but all I can find is the manufacturers site/description, No vendors. From the looks of the spool it may be hard to purchase just a 10' piece.
?High Temperature Insulation??alumina silica??colloidal silica??fiber materials??fiber silica??fused silica??high silica glass??high temperature cloth??high temperature fiber??high temperature silica??silica
I've seen it listed as small as 2mm dia. I might be able to strike a deal for 50-100' with the manufacturer. I'll send them an email and report back.

I plated the coil wire ends with copper ( Clean and Simple Electroplating ), wrapped the coil on a 1mm metal rod, soldered 30ga. enameled wire to it with a "hook & crimp" on each end. The bottom of the atty had a plastic disk glued in to remove and then I just probed with a needle to find the top layer of metal foam then peeled it back till the bottom of the ceramic cup was exposed. Removed the old coil and wires and fed the new one in from the top, on the form as far as I could. It actually went in easily if done slowly. Passing the one side under the bridge without deforming the coil is the worst part since both atty leads go into the cup on the same side of the bridge. After the coil is in place, bend the wires back up the outside of the atty band and tape them so the coil cannot move. Now put the 4 layers of the metal foam, disks with 2 holes in it, between the atty wires and fold the rest of the metal foam layers back down. The atty wires are now secure and the plastic disk can be slid on the atty wires and re-glued back into place. The failed circuit cooked the atty and melted the plastic disk cracking it in half.
This coil has more room to work than most I've seen.

I've considered making a plug in coil using IC socket connector pins. If the "cup" of the connector is to large, the connector can be drilled, using the cup hole as a guide, with a .005-.010 drill and pin vise from a jewelers set I have. The cup could be removed, the wire inserted in the pin, crimped, soldered and ready to plug in. The connectors plug in well to each other and can even be found gold plated. The cups could be glued to the bottom of the ceramic bowl as long as the metal foam isn't allowed to short them out.

Hope this will be of help to someone,

Vaporer

[HockerMagnum]

I have had some success with a Zippo lighter wick. Just had to remove the copper wires that help it maintain it's shape. Picked one up in a tobacco shop for less than two bucks.

Made a no bridge dripper coil for 801 atty.

[Vaporer]

Thanks Hocker,

I have some fiberglass mat that I could make a wick from, but the thought of inhaling any fibers that might break free bothers me. I also found a new replacement wick 4-5" dia for my kerosene heater. Its threads look pretty good. Non asbestos. Looks a like lighter wick material.

Has the coil burnt the Zippo wick to start carbon forming? With the nichrome surface oxidized the carbon could act like a shunt resistor inside coil reducing its performance.
I have no idea how conductive the oxidized surface of nichrome is. I have some I can measure though.

Vaporer