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Old 10-19-2009, 05:50 PM   #161
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What about steel wool, or something similar to that?
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Old 10-19-2009, 09:41 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroh22 View Post
What about steel wool, or something similar to that?
You mean instead of Nichrome foam? Not sure that will work, as it will probably take a lot more energy to heat it up. Nichrome has a very high resistance, which creates a lot of heat when the current "struggles" to flow through it.
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Old 10-21-2009, 05:07 AM   #163
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oops, wrong thread

Last edited by roadkilldeluxe; 10-21-2009 at 05:11 AM.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:09 PM   #164
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What about making a modular atomiser?
1.Top= snap in bridge
2.Next= filament with fiber
3.Next a drilled atomizer bottom (drilled for the two leads of the heating coil)
4.Bottom another atomizer bottom with the correct threadding to get to batterie holder.

when you push 2 into 3 the tails protrude
bend tail of negetive into cutout of thread
snip and bend positive lead to form center contact
thread bottom-4 onto 3 to pinch in place and hold coil
Slide into or thread into tube and attach cart.

No solder, just self clamping

This would solve all solder problems, make the atomizer easily rebuildable by anyone.
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Old 10-27-2009, 09:42 PM   #165
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I have pics posted of where I suggesed using IC socket pins (gold plated) for a plug in coil. I think its in the DSE601 rebuilders thread.

There just isnt much room in the cermaic cup to work and the metal foam across the bottom lends way for an easy short. The pins of the socket fit perfectly into the top of the same connector from the socket. My method was to solder and crimp.
Not much room to work in a 510, 901 cup, but an 801 has possibilities.
Cup styles differ also. Some are a open area with a raised ridge ring while some 510 are only a 2 x 4mm rextangle 2mm deep.

The crimp has the possibility of oxidizing from repeated heating and cooling making a poor connection.

Best thing to do is start trying possibilities !

Good luck and post some pics of your work if you can.
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Old 10-27-2009, 09:47 PM   #166
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Is this what you are describing?


The way I understood it, one of the leads is bent around in place at the bottom of the threads on #3, kinda thick, so that it pinches against the bottom of #4's recieving socket. The other lead goes into the threads somehow to be pinched against the recieving socket's threads. Let me know if I got it right... but the "pinching" idea sounds pretty cool. Right now I am crimping copper around Nichrome and something like this seems to be a convenient and truly replaceable method.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:23 AM   #167
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That is so close to the picture I have here it is almost scary...

How did you draw and post it? I have corel draw here, can save in many formats.

If you pm me with an e-mail, I'll draw out my design and send it to you.
I think I simplified the replacement even more.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:27 AM   #168
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It could be bigger than the e-cig, as long as the final threading fits something. Could look like a e-cig thats pregnant in the middle, the extra room should allow more airflow and provide bigger vapes.
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Old 10-28-2009, 01:42 AM   #169
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Thank god for the picture - I got lost halfway through the post! :-)
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:59 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephaniems View Post
I'm dumb and have no clue but could copper be used?
You're not dumb, just less trained in science/engineering than some.

If you're talking about using Copper as the heating element, the problem with your idea is that you need a metal which resists the flow of electricity and by resisting, transforms the energy in the flow of electrons into heat which is used to heat e-liquid to the vapor point. You need something where the ability to block electron flow is somewhere between rubber (super insulator) and, say gold (really, really good conductor).

Copper won't work because it's one of the better conductors and you would have to pump a ton of current through it to heat it up.
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