Replacement for nichrome coil...

[Scubabatdan]

I think we should also suspend theroy and get a agreed element in out hands.

Diameter (min 3.8mm):
Length of heating area (minimum 6mm):
Length of non-heated tip: I vote for 2mm of non heated area at the tip
Length of non-heated base (minimum 4mm):
Optimal Surface temperature (it seems 160-200C, but I need a number): 200C
Voltage (3.7v to maintain compatibility): 3.7
Ohms (I saw 2.5-3 was good? Can someone confirm?): 3

These are the numbers I would go with IMO.
Dan

[Scubabatdan]

By the way, I don't mean to bash anyone here. I think there has been fantastic progress made extremely quickly. I like Dan's idea of using a non-heated area at the tip to wick to the heated area. I'm a little concerned that the non-heated ceramic may still be too hot, since the heat will probably be conducted to a great degree through the ceramic material. Also, consider the distance from the existing nichrome coil to the tip of the bridge is more than 2mm, and we still experience melted carts when the atty overheats.

Dan, the -minumum- heated area is 6mm, not 5mm, so you would have to reduce the non-heated tip to 1mm, further exacerbating the problem. Perhaps lining the inner wall of the atty tube with a ring of stainless steel wicking material, coming to a point (bridge) to contact the cart wicking, and then running two smaller runs of ss wick to a 1-2mm wide ring surrounding the center of the heated area on the ceramic?

RoadKill, I really want to use your template, but it isn't an 801. My BE112s are the only attys I have to play with, and what I originally spec'd the heater for use in. My Photoshop mojo isn't up to par with your's, Dan, but here's my attempt:


The brown thing to the left is the battery connector. The existing ceramic pot fits inside without the spacer that is there now. The heater fits nicely into the existing pot, and can be soldered easily to the connector. The heater leads should even match the old lead holes in the pot. The ss wicking would be difficult to arrange, but I was thinking that it could be assembled around a solid stainless core, and somehow blocked on the side of the tube to keep it from being pushed towards the battery connector, contacting the heater. This would limit the amount of liquid in contact with the heating surface, and keep the heat a bit further from the cart. I'm still mostly concerned that this thing is going to be running to hot for the surface area that is being heated. My suspicion is that the atty tube is going to burn fingers with this inside.

Q4mK

The only problem I have with this design is that after measuring the 801 atty I have, the additional arrow design you have there will put it deep into the cart. I would rather increase the cold area above the heating element.
Connecting the SS support to the heating element will make the SS hot transfering the heat to the cart material. I vote for a 2mm non heated area at the tip. Lets make a run of this and we can always adjust. Lets get them made total length of 12mm with the 2mm non heated at the tip and go from there.

Dan

[kinabaloo]

For the temp I'd say 155C, but really need to know hoe the temp controller works first.

[Scubabatdan]

BTW here is where we can get our ceramic "holder" made at:
Ceramic part for heating elements Manufacturer exporting direct from China

Dan

[kinabaloo]

I suggest a ceramic wick. Although nickel foam/mesh is a viable alternative though also directly connected to the heating element.

[Bubo]

YEAH! Kinabaloo showed up! :-)

Diameter (min 3.8mm): 3.8
Length of heating area (minimum 6mm): 6mm
Length of non-heated tip (I assumed 0, but there is some discussion): 2 is good, can grind off tip if required during testing
Length of non-heated base (minimum 4mm): 4mm
Optimal Surface temperature (it seems 160-200C, but I need a number): Can't help...
Voltage (3.7v to maintain compatibility): 3.7
Ohms (I saw 2.5-3 was good? Can someone confirm?): Can't help - my 510 attys are 2.3 though

[Ralph Hilton]

My thought is its probably not feasible getting in on the first round of this with the package going to the USA. Perhaps if there are a few more interested in EU then a package could come here for splitting up and faster distribution.
I would suggest going for a 3 volt 3 ohm 200C specification on the first ones. Its much easier to drop a little voltage and current electrically than to increase it if the spec turns out to be too low. Current atomizers will heat to 500C in a few seconds if dry. If a low temperature is specified then I suspect the warm up time will be too long given the high rate of increase in resistance with temperature.
Most ecigs (not big mod) have a microcontroller in them now. If what is envisioned here is the development of the perfect ecig then I would see the incorporation of one as essential.

[highping]

I know I'm jumping in late here, but here are my thoughts on the specs:

Diameter (min 3.8mm): 3.8

Length of heating area (minimum 6mm):
Not sure why everyone is going for the min here. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't more surface area = more vapor?

Length of non-heated tip (I assumed 0, but there is some discussion):
How 'non-heated' is the tip really going to be? If the heated portion is made for say 200C isn't the tip that's 1-2mm away going to be around 198C within milliseconds? I suppose we could just be looking for a small delta T to invoke the wicking of the juice. If this is the case, we may want that non-heated area to be of some porous material. We may even want that porous material to encase the entire element and extend from the tip.

Length of non-heated base (minimum 4mm): 4mm

Optimal Surface temperature (it seems 160-200C, but I need a number):
If it will eventually be in the ideally designed e-cig, then abundant juice delivery will need to be a part of that design. For this reason, I say the hotter the better. (200C)

Voltage (3.7v to maintain compatibility): agree 3.7 (for now, but I think everyone using a batt mod would agree 3.7V=weak vape)

Ohms (I saw 2.5-3 was good? Can someone confirm?):
I'm guessing that the resistance is going to be a product of desired temp and voltage. But if we look at wattage (which is really the usable result of the voltage and resistance variables) 2.5ohm@3.7V=5.5W where 3.5ohm@3.7V=3.9W. This is why (on stock equipment) a 510 hits harder than a 801.

In the end, it's wattage (or more precisely temperature) and surface area that determine the vapor production.


Just my .02

[Scubabatdan]

Here is my vision:













This is the ceramic casing with the heating rod inserted. I can make the entire atty and cart in 3D if needed. This is just a vision of things to come, I know we are focusing on the heating element right now, but I am looking at all angles.

Dan

[Jason365]

I like the look of that Dan. Would the ceramic piece around the heater be replaceable or is a all in one unit? i.e. would the sun rod come out to aid in cleaning?

Jason