sorry guys didnt mean to slow you down with my newb comments . . how about using a ceramic air stone from a fish tank.
Ha! Welcome to the forum. As a near-noob myself, I can offer some guidance. One who is brand new here should allot some time to read a fair amount before posting advice/suggestions, unless one is already an expert in the respective field. Ie; the air stone - a project is already underway with ceramic heater/wick mods, and the air stone has been mentioned a fair amount already. What I try to do is "search" a term before posting, to see what's been done already, and/or start a new thread for a different subject.
Not to scare you off (please don't be! we need all advocates of ecigs to stay connected!) just thought this might help.
kai
I've been a little harsh sided lately.
It is a good idea to search a topic and read the whole thread if interested in the subject. Lots of stuff you will find already covered, some will be very new.
I think you will find this bunch is very safety cautious. We are under a strong eye right now. I respect your concern with a safety issue that you think others may not be aware of. Check out post #102 of this thread.
There are a couple of good threads on ceramic projects going on.
Check out "I Quit fo my Kids". It's in the atomizer section abt 10 threads under this one last time I looked.
where is my forum etiquette ? haha i have been going a little crazy will a couple different projects and got excited when i read about the ceramic air stones, i never though to search on here for threads, i never seen anything about it in the newest threads so i thought id throw it out there. try to go easy on me guys, i did sign up yesterday, this thread alot is 12 pages. anyway i havent found this info on your site with the search function. so here it is, if nobody wants this info ill stop posting. 30mm x 15mm cylindrical aluminum oxide / ceramic air stone. the stone can be the atty, the air pipe can be the atty, the stone with its uniform porous holes will act as a wicking device. possibly as a cart too.
heat the tube and it will pull liquid through the stone into the tube as your atty. the reverse is true if you heat the stone it will pull liquid up the pipe. The use of Aluminum oxide is important. as it create a porous ceramic with uniform 200 micron sized holes.
look into microheaters, this is your solution. from Wiki:
Microheaters are small high power heaters with precise control, that can offer temperatures in excess of 1000C, even up to 1900C
With an increase in usable temperature, microheaters need to be supported or enclosed with very high thermal-resistant ceramic materials often made from small grain, high purity aluminum oxide.
through all this im just curious if you have tried a 2c lipo pack... a 30 second recharge time on one of these for 2 minutes of use seems very acceptable to me for certain things. i have a million ideas so ill be around , just thought i wouldsee if you have tried one , seeing as youre into r/c stuff
on another note , i took apart my dead 901 last night , and i dont know how you solder something so miniscule. i tie flies for fishing , and let me tell you , ill tie the tiniest size 26 anyday , but looking at a coil that was maybe 2mm long , theres no way my skills are there. not to mention all the mesh crap , seemed to be glued together. im thinkging this is was is responsible for my burnt taste.
Finding specs on the factory batteries is tough. I have some rc lipos that are 20C. A 2-3C full recharge time isn't uncommon on small 100-180ma lipos found in some stuff. The 20 min full recharge time on many of these "economy units" shows this. Its hard on a battery to charge over 1C, unless its designed for it. They still seem to have a shorter lifespan. The fire from a 1A battery isn't pretty either.
The ceramic cup "pocket" on a 510 atty is normally 2 x 4mm so the coil has to fit in there with adequate clearance for airflow and allows for some buildup. The NiCH wire in the pics is .005 . It isnt that bad to solder with the tip shaped right, good flux and a head band magnifier. A fly tying holder is ideal and was suggested by someone as an aid in making coils.
The mesh isnt normally glued. It's kind stuck from the compression of being squeezed into the tube. Once you find the last wrap point, it just falls away.
Finding specs on the factory batteries is tough. I have some rc lipos that are 20C. A 2-3C full recharge time isn't uncommon on small 100-180ma lipos found in some stuff. The 20 min full recharge time on many of these "economy units" shows this. Its hard on a battery to charge over 1C, unless its designed for it. They still seem to have a shorter lifespan. The fire from a 1A battery isn't pretty either.
The "pocket" on a 510 atty is normally 2 x 4mm so the coil has to fit in there with adequate clearance for airflow and allows for some buildup. The NiCH wire in the pics is .005 . It isnt that bad to solder with the tip shaped right, good flux and a head band magnifier. A fly tying holder is ideal and was suggested by someone as an aid in making coils.
The mesh isnt normally glued. It's kind stuck from the compression of being squeezed into the tube. Once you find the last wrap point, it just falls away.
Hey Vaporer,
Was cruzin the forums a week ago and found someone that converted a standard carto into to a super carto, 12ga shell I think the mod was called but it disapeared the next day. In my spare time (like none) I have create a dup of the pill fob carto. I used 36ga Nichrome at 2.6ohms wrapped around 2 4" Strands of fire wick and basically looped them back down beside the air tube and wapped the whole thing with poly fill. This is then inserted into the 1/4" hole in the bottom of the pill fob and pressed into place. I then filled the remaining space in the pillfob with poly fill. This thing holds 3ml of ejuice and works like a champ at 3.7v. I basically made a carto from scratch. here are the pics.
Dan
Pretty cool Dan. This thread isn't just for my ideas. I'd like to see more proven methods with pics posted here. It got a sticky and doing this keeps all the info in one place.
Cartos are my next "target". lol It comes down to just a couple choices. You find or redo one so that wont burn using the existing materials, or make one like you did that wont.
I dont know if yours will eventually burn or not. Time and materials used will tell with use.
Silica seems to be the most fire resistant, but with some using HV, they can push temps above the 2300* on a dry burn. The stranded non-resin fiberglass seems to be a close 2nd.
So, if you vape at 3.7v, its possible to make an atty that doesnt burn, post it, and then someone uses it on 6v and cooks it to the ground and decides to call you on it.
Details and common sense need to be used in descriptions. We all have the same goal.
The best and safest vaping experience possible. I have an Idea for a redo on a carto, but plan to do it in a new carto thread. Then maybe we can start getting good carto info all in one place too. There is just to much good stuff spread all over the threads that gets lost. If links are found I don't mind a bit for them to be posted here if its a good proven thing.
My OP still works well on a standard atty. Variations are important as some cannot do certain things and may easily do another method.
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