This thread is from what I could actually work with in hand as I had it for an improvement in efficiency.
No offense taken. I didnt see any reference to the shape or airflow.
Seemed highly praised though.
I will have to troll the classifieds for a cart or 2 cut up.
If someone has a couple dead ones, I'll gladly pay the postage for them.
The silica wick is actually amorphous silica continuous filament fiber as read from the manufaturers website. Silica yarn can be found as small as 2mm for stitching and seems well suited for wicking material as opposed to the rope. It's not easy to find anyone that will send a sample and buying 500-1000' unseen isn't practical.
?High temperature silica fiber yarn?silica fiber yarn , silica yarn , High silica yarn , high silica fiber yarn ,1700 centidegree fiber yarn ,1000 centidegree fiber yarn , 97% silica fiber yarn ,
The rope form seems a little more brittle, but all thats readily available and takes heat very well. Also, the corrosive substances mentioned on that page incliude phosphoric acid. The Pepsi and Coke soaker may damage a wick made with this product but I would suspect it would need to be a much stronger concentration. I placed some in fresh Pepsi and noticed no difference in 24 hrs.
I found the pic I was looking for. Internals of a Greencig cartomizer:
Thanks for the pic. Used wick and filler turns that color pretty quickly in life. It really does look like hair.
The coil is narrower than most but from what I can tell its wrapped fairly tight and round, not oval. No way to determine what the airflow is to it just from that pic.
I really don't understand the reasoning for the loop. I know why mines there and it gets trimmed off when dropped into the cup. I'll cover that when I do the tutorial on rebuilding an atomizer. The other longer end is routed under the mesh on the bridge for a wick feed. This all actually primes the system preventing the wick from burning and soaks up bottom juice in the cup to help prevent flooding.
I also have a 4.5ohm coil that has been doing quite well for over a month.
Stock atomizers are normally 3.2-3.4 ohms with 3.7v. This results in 1A current draw and produces 4 watts of power(heat) for vaporization.
The 4.5ohm version draws .82A and only produces 3 watts of power(heat) and still vapes well. So, it provides longer battery life due to a lower drain rate.
With an unprotected battery a 3.4 ohm atomizer coil will still vaporize e liquid at 2.25v. It not great, but still producing. At that time it's drawing .66A and producing 1.48watts of power. So at 2.5v its still working fairly well on much less power.
This could go a long way in reducing carbon production in the atomizer extending its lifespan. The lowered current draw is still higher than one would want on a battery and no wonder penstyle batteries don't last that long. They can range from 180ma to 350ma. A stock atomizer is drawing 3-5 times more current than the battery is designed to discharge.
Originally Posted by Vaporer
I'm watching this thread with anticipation, Vaporer. Suffice to say that I'm impressed with your findings and work.
When you say; "still vaporize e liquid at 2.25 v. It's not great, but still producing" you are referring to vapor production AND throat hit, I presume? I find that I change batteries out when they discharge down to 3.6 v or so as opposed to 4.2 v at full charge because of a lack of TH and not necessarily a lack of vapor production.
I find it fascinating that you're looking into varying the resistance of the attys instead of increasing voltage and mah via larger batteries like the rest of the e-cig world.
Actually its more vapor than throat at that point. Throat hit seems to be determined by 3 things. Temperature, Nicotine strength and volume. At 2.25v its still making vapor, but at a noticably reduced amount, so the volume and temperature is less.
We need around 400* to vapoize eliquid. Nichrome wire starts glowing red at about 1900*. So, in theory, we should be able to reduce the killing carbon by running lower temperatures. Protected batteries will cutout at 2.75v.
To reach 400* 36ga nichrome wire requires about .380A. That is at full efficiency and dry. We have a variable airflow and cooling due to heat being transferred to the wet wick and atomized liquid hitting it. So, we have to, for convience of no long wait, vapor during draw use more current. A lot may depend on what the user wants. More flavor which is better with lower temps or better throat hit and larger volume involving the heat and greater vapor laden nic.
There is a flip side to all this. Most that use higher voltages will say flavor suffers, I'd expect that, more vapor and throat hit. Expected also. But, the higher voltages could by design vaporize more liquid before it reaches the atomizer. In that case, it would actually form less carbon at the price of reducing flavor and requiring a larger battery for time of use.
This thread was mainly addressing using the coil more efficiently physically by design.
As you can see, I'm considering other factors and not ruling anything out yet. A lot still to be tested and that takes time. It's pretty evident right off the bat that people would be better off with a good mod using standard type 3.7v batteries that have have a 1A rating minimum. Many are 900ma and that is still a big plus vs a standard penstyle 180ma factory battery. Sucking the guts out of the battery will surely shorten its lifespan.
Thanks to all for the input , interest and support!
Another point to consider is that most factory atomizers I've checked use 38ga wire. Slightly smaller in dia and more fragile after usage as nichrome wire does harden on repeated heating and cooling cycles. With 36ga fitting well, even at a slightly shorter length should take abuse a little better due to the larger dia.
Also a shorter coil can be made with 36ga and the factory 38ga longer lengths are the ones I've found that the ends , due to length, are not in the airflow stream.
I am so looking forward to the tutorial that you will be putting together for rebuilding the atomizer. Hopefully it will be easy enough to do. I still haven't even attempted to make a mod yet for the battery. Maybe I will try to do the Nicostick, sometime in the near future. Kudos to you for your effort & the willingness to share with other members.
It won't be a short read. lol
I'd like to do it as a "living" pdf file. As much as I try, because I've done this type of thing many years, it's easy to unintentionally skip things that are taken for granted.
So, when the 1st draft is posted and questions will be asked, the file will need to be edited to address what wasn't understood or explained clearly enough. Then a new version will be posted. I don't expect it to be small from the git go.
If a person can't understand all the steps then it's worthless...........
For anyone planning on attempting to repair/rebuild thier atomizers I'd suggest reading a tutorial on soldering and practice if they haven't had much in the past. I'm sure I saw one on the forum somewhere in the modders section.
Nichrome wire doesnt solder easily, but with a little zinc chloride flux and a 30 watt soldering iron makes a fine soldered joint to copper wire in about 3-5 seconds.
These are the things that will be described in detail, with materials, sources, tools needed and such.
A simple mod would be excellent soldering practice and productive at the same time. There are some very nice simple mods in the modders section to choose from.
Last edited by Vaporer; 11-14-2009 at 04:27 PM.
I don't mind a long read, especially if it is as in depth as you make it sound. The more knowledge available for me, the better off I am. I sincerely am looking forward to this opportunity that you will be making available to all of us. So when do you think you may be ready to fly with this? Can any of the parts be gotten from the local stores, or will I need to be getting parts online? I'm so impatient, I just hate waiting for things to come in through the mail. Thanks again for your interest in sharing with me and the rest of the forum.