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New Atomizer Coil Shape in Modding Forum; I'll try to have a materials and tools list posted this evening or tomorrow. With links. I figure a week ...
  1. #21
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    I'll try to have a materials and tools list posted this evening or tomorrow. With links.
    I figure a week to get the pics and document started. Good idea on getting the mail order stuff on its way. I need to see the size of pdfs allowed here. With a lot of pics It may easily grow to large and I'll need to find a free web host to post it on.
    It will be in its own new thread as it will be a tutorial and not necessarily use just this style coil.

    Jason and Scott,
    The picture is very similar to mine. I do see an important flaw though. Notice how tight the wire is on the wick? Jason is correct that the more wick the better. But if wound to tightly the air spaces in the wicking material prevent capillary acton to properly feed the wick inside the coil. This area really needs to be kept wet as the middle of the coil is actually the hottest area. The atomizer coil is actually shorting the positive and negative of the battery, Its resistance keeps it from from just melting away and results in heat being produced.

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    Nice progress. When you speak of the "carbon" are you talking about the black layer on the outside of the Nichrome? Or some sort of residue from the juice itself?

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    Thanks road,

    I'm referring to the carbon buildup from the juice, not the oxidation of the nichrome wire.
    I'll have to make a few and put one in a 5v mod maybe increase the resistance. The main idea is to vaporize the liquid in such a way that carbon won't form on the coil or ar least reduce it.

    I was watching your thread with the glass bulb. Any new progress?

  5. #24
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    Here is what the atomizer ended up in.

    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/for...tml#post731090

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    Cool! What do you suspect the main causes of buildup are due to? I always figured it was probably due to overheating of juice, which is worrisome because overheating VG produces Acrolein, which, according to Wikipedia, "tends to polymerize when left at room temperature, leaving a gummy yellowish residue with a putrid odor." Do you think it's possible at all that this "gummy residue" leads to the buildup we see?

    I wasn't quite satisfied with my prototype (time-consuming to build, weak glass), but Ashhead is working with a glassblower and doing some experiments of his own. Now I am experimenting with Moktarino's design, which is essentially a "glass bulb" but much smaller and is made of borosilicate glass... looks pretty promising!

    It's great to see everyone engineering atomizers and helping each other out. Can't wait till we start seeing results out of all these projects, but it sounds like you are just about there I completely agree with you about the need for lots of detailed "how-to's". PDF sounds like a good format because then everyone could store local copies; plus, images on the forums tend to disappear randomly, so it would be nice to be able to keep a copy!

  7. #26
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    Well, cooked PG and VG will thicken. Some vapor gets recycled in the atomizer body and sent back through as it condenses.
    The brown stuff that comes out when you blow a well used atty clean.
    The 4.5ohm, that is my biggest worry. It leans towards restriction but does clean rinse well, so all is good for now. Its also in a 510 atty with little clearence, but they (untested attys) have to go somewhere and work in many ways.

    John at EcoPure did a test with VG since its thier new base and found no acrolein was produced. Check thier website for the report. It was a main concern with all the hotter temperatures with higher voltages.

    The brown gummy crap is also flavorings , color ingredients and such. Many things don't volatize at 400*, get left behind and some get burnt and leave a lot of ash to start the buildup process. It can be a real balancing game. The condensed vapor drains back into the mesh actually rinsing the walls clean. So...garbage forms and being thicker , heavier it is much more prone to clog and carbon up.

    Glad to hear yours is coming along. Borosilicate should be a good choice. Power requirements will be higher as we discussed to heat the non generating thermal mass (glass) but may clean very easy and protect the coil.

    Always a tradeoff.................................

  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaporer View Post


    Edit:
    Silica "fire wick" rope: My thanks to carlos49 for sending me some till I found it. It's the white braided rope used on wood stove doors.
    From carlos49-"A word of advice if anyone is interested, get the loosley knitted type it's a lot easier to unknit without it breakinginto little pieces.

    What dia silica rope do I need to get? I place a mcmaster order about once a week and would like to get a few feet of the right stuff. TIA

  9. #28
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    The 1/2" works well. Round braided.
    Once you start unbraiding it goes a long way. I was given a foot and its hardly dented after 6 months.

    I'm starting to work on the tutorial. My son will have to take some pics since I dont have 4 hands !
    Last edited by Vaporer; 11-19-2009 at 06:57 AM.

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaporer View Post
    The 1/2" works well. Round braided.
    Once you start unbraiding it goes a long way. I was given a foot and its hardly dented after 6 months.

    I'm starting to work on the tutorial. My son will have to take some pics since I dont have 4 hands !
    Thanks, just gathering my supplies and patiently waiting. I have a few burt out 510's and my 40 replacements have been stuck in customs for a week now

  11. #30
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    I got the wire you suggested too. $2 with free shipping is a good enough price to consider the added work to rebuild these things

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