New Atomizer Coil Shape

[Vaporer]

gsa,

Do you know how to remove the threaded fitting from the atomizer?
I had considered starting the tutorial with an 801 high bridge as an example.
Its large internal area seems the easiest to work with.
I am aware that many don't own an 801 and 510's which are very popular have the smallest area.
The coil will be made the same for both with the same materials.
Not all cermaic cups are the same so as detailed as I can be, one will have to look at thier feed points as I cannot possibly own all models and styles.

This is one reason for the delay. I want to do it right and making the coil is simple, but it's worthless if the user cannot disassemble the atomizer and install it.
I realize not everyone will be able to do this. Something that I and they will have to understand. Whats tedious to one person can be simple for another.

The one unique thing I have found with the 510 is that Janty seems to follow the 3.4ohm resistance coil as all other models I've measured except Joye. Ones I've recently ordered claiming to be a Joye 510 Atomizer (thin brass band) are 2.3ohms. These will use more power and run hotter. The user needs to be aware of this also so performance is the same. Making the coil will just be a shorter length of nichrome wire.

[gsa]

to remove the fitting from the 510 atty, I soaked the atty in acetone for 10 minutes, screwed it on to a battery and then jiggled it back and forth, it came right off and confirmed my suspicion of superglue being the bonding agent.

[Vaporer]

Good deal. The thin brass ones do come off pretty easy.
Normally I dont reglue them back together. The press fit is enough to hold well enough.
Makes them much easier for the next tear down too.
Janty wide brass baned ones seem a little tougher. For the Titan I think.
I boil mine for 15min, put it on a battery and insert a drill bit that just fits inside the atty tube and wiggle the tube off with a pair of gas pliers. I put a wrap of thin rubber to prevent scratching around atty.

The tubes are SS and there is a pretty good vid on You Tube on making all your attys with the platinum finish. Auto batteries can be done the same way and the platinum finish looks good on many mods. Makes old atty look at least decent.

[rickou812]

I have a question Vaporer.
What is the mesh material covering the nichrome and where can you get it?
What are you using for the ceramic base on home made atty's, not the refurbs?

Thanks,
Rick

[Jason365]

I have a question Vaporer.
What is the mesh material covering the nichrome and where can you get it?
What are you using for the ceramic base on home made atty's, not the refurbs?

Thanks,
Rick

These, maybe.....

Ceramic Wire Nuts on Keystone Industries

[Vaporer]

I just do refurbs on my stuff. If it comes apart once without breaking, its a breeze from then on. Very little chance of breakage. No need to stock many though when you can rebuild. I've rebuilt 3 many times , at least 10-15 ea making test models and they still rebuild just fine.

The metal mesh covering the ceramic cup is called nickle metal foam. Someone found it on this forum somewhere. You can search it out with the thread tools.

If you are wanting to make your own ceramic cups, carlos49 has an article on here for that I believe.

[Vaporer]

I actually considered using the ceramic wire nuts for a cup replacement if ever needed. I used a ceramic fuse casing and a dremel cuttoff wheel barely dents it.
If the nuts are that same material and density you'll play heck getting a hole in them.

[jxmiller]

I actually considered using the ceramic wire nuts for a cup replacement if ever needed. I used a ceramic fuse casing and a dremel cuttoff wheel barely dents it.
If the nuts are that same material and density you'll play heck getting a hole in them.

I found he ceramic wire nuts, porcelain wire nuts, and porcelain sockets(for halogen bulbs). Where can I find ceramic fuse casings?

Like these?

[Vaporer]

jxmiller,
Thats the style I had laying around here. They were abt 1/4" in dia 1" long. Really tough to cut.
The dremel sand cutoff wheel barely scratched them. Unless you have very small diamond bits (possibly carbide), I have no idea how you will ever get feed holes in them.

Mine were so old I feared lead solder in the metal cap so I never finished that project. I didnt trust JB Weld or anything like it not to leach something into the eliquid after being constantly soaked.

If you do it sucessfully, I'd start a thread on "Atomizer Cup Creation" and feel free to post a link in this thread to it.

I've had a minor set back in health and got a little slow in getting my tutorial done on the coil building, but its coming. It will be in a seperate thread as this one mainly applies to a new non-cylindrical coil shape. Not the rebuilding/creation of the coil itself.

[Kate51]

Nice work, sir, I wish I would have kept all of my 801 attys, I would for awhile and get sick of looking at them and throw them out. No more. Will take a plunge at re-wiring mine now too, at $9 for new atty may be worthwhile.
I was really surprised to see how easily (?) they were to take apart, the ones I've disected were in ruin by the time I got everything out (the threaded ends).
There has been a definite lacking in the original design, some I've had go bad were the ones that scorched after a day or so of use. Nasty. And all too frequent.
I think it is the correlation between air flow and heating to produce heavy enough vapor. I still have a problem understanding the purpose of the mesh surrounding the pot. It fills with liquid that kind of just stays there. Which explains rapid drawing of liquid from the cart in a new atty, even when you 'prime' with juice before using it. Soaking in ethanol will clean it, but same thing happens, soaks up and stays that way; ??? Sometimes there's as much condensation on the outside of the casing as on the inside. Maybe cannot be helped. Reason for wet battery/atty connection.
Another question is how many winds of the nichrome is most efficient for heat production. I would love to see a no-harm self-cleaning enclosed heater!!
I hope your health problem is not serious and under control, take care, and keep up the good work.