New Atomizer Coil Shape

[Vaporer]

After long thought and looking at buildup on atomizer coils it was time for some serious rethinking.

When air passes a cylinder it doesn't wrap all the way around it. It turbulates on the back side. This presents a problem for the coil, the thermal mass, only getting just over 50% exposure. Doesn't seem like the most efficient design. It's small diameter is to its advantage, but the weight of the atomized liquid is heavier and its energy will pull it past the coil not allowing it to roll back in to it.
Ceramic cups sometimes have side intakes allowing more disturbance of the atomized liquid. This can cause a stall, possibly holding it near the coil, allowing it to vaporize. With the diameter of the PV tube, it seems doubtful. It's possible that this design doesn't matter
being small tubed and hit from all directions but the other advantages made below should be well founded.

The new design here is an oval shape. An egg (small end 1st) is actually the best for less aerodynamic drag.
The oval design has less resistance to airflow, (Airplane Airfoils)
Less distance from the coil as it passes and less distance to try and be pulled back in. Its biggest plus is more surface area of the nichrome wire exposed to the atomized airflow. Approximately 80%.
Other advantages is the main body of the coil is now in the mainstream of the 2 bottom feed holes and the 2mm "side face" is in direct path of the side inlets. A single smaller dia coil can be 2x as wide as the feed ports. When examing a dead carboned atomizer, it's normally buldged in the middle and very little to none on the ends since the ends were out of the airstream not really doing any work.




Materials were 2ea. 1mm rods as a winding core and 1.25in of 36ga wire. Resulting in a 3.1ohm coil. This makes a coil 1mm wide x 2mm tall at its widest points plus the dia of the wire. (.005 in.)
My next one will use a 1.5mm top rod to more simulate the egg shape.

As for now, not much to say other than it works well. Vapor production is good and time will tell on buildup and longevity.

Note: The 801 high bridge atty pictured had a broken mesh leg. Best attempts were made to repair the mesh joint and assure good feed on that side. So far I haven't noticed any problems. No typical 801 flooding, but it's still early on this one. Maybe a reduced feed on the bad side or the design allows it to just get drawn out.

Hope you enjoy it.

Edit:
Silica "fire wick" rope: McMaster-Carr
Due to changes at McMaster Carr be sure to select option #3 or #4 for the silica rope. If not selected you will receive a lower temp fiberglass rope.

Nichrome wire: 36ga (27ohm per ft) $2 for 10' free shipping from:
Nichrome Wire

[jj2]

Keep it up cause you are smarter than this average bear, and thanks for all the time and effort.
I really do wish you luck, a lot of people are counting on people like you.

[Jason365]

That does it. I need to get some 801 atty's and adapters to fit my 510 gear. Any of you guys want to send me a busted 801 or 2. Rebuilding the 510's and their small as a hair wire holes is for the bears. The 801 look much easier to get in to and work.

Oh by the way great job on that atty and coil. I found the more fiber wicking you get in there the better. it seems to insulate the nicrhome from itself.

[Sun Vaporer]

Vaporer--this is a great development. What did you use for the coil and wick as actual material and where did you get it?

Great work and I am sticking this thread.


Sun

[Richie G]

Vaporer--this is a great development. What did you use for the coil and wick as actual material and where did you get it?

Great work and I am sticking this thread.


Sun

Are you sticking this thread because of Vaporer's research and work or is there some sort of nepotism going on? I mean, you two guys have the same 'family' name. <g>

Kudos Vaporer. I'm curious to see where this all leads.

[Vaporer]

Ok, all the material links are in the original post.

I have a mod to post and then maybe its time for a from the ground up atty rebuild tutorial. Step by step with pics. Probably have to do it with a downloadable file since it would have many pics. Adobe is free and probably the best.
There are some I'm sure in the atty thread, but each has thier own way.
Its easy to miss things people arent used to seeing , doing or know alot about and they get left cold to wonder or believe its over thier head.
Not true in many cases. Just better explainations needed and lots of pics!

With the ban hanging over us I'd like to see more "how to's" posted in detail.

Actually the 510 is a smaller diameter, but the thin band one is one of the easiest to disassemble without breaking things.

I need to post what this critter went in and I know what my next project will be!

[Scottbee]

Have you ever taken a GreenCig cartomizer apart?

[Vaporer]

No, I have never seen one in hand.
I do have a KR808 that's coming apart soon.
It's atomizer appears to be vertical. Should be interesting.

[Scottbee]

There are some pics on the forum of the Greencig carto taken apart.... and in their design they use what looks like horse hair (I'm sure it is fiberglass or the like), and they wrap the coil right around a bundle of it. There are some similarities to what you have posted.

I don't mean anything bad by this.. just thought you would be interested.

[Scottbee]

Looks like the pics are gone.. but here's the thread:

Greencig Cartomizer Autopsy