Making an Atomizer Coil 101 (Actual Working Methods Only)

[Vaporer]

The Needle Method

For those that may not like trying to thread pull the wick in, this way works well.
You can make 2 at a time, more if your form is longer.

First, start off with a needle, or anything smooth that will slide out when finished. Take a length of wick longer than the form and secure it at each end. I use thread and a slip knot. Notice I left a bit of extra past the thread.
This will be the long wick end to go under the bridge.


Made 2 pre-soldered wire lengths and wrapped them up. The coil spacing can be adjusted, carefully, after wrapping. It doesn't have to be perfect, just don't let them touch when finished. Wrap tightly. When the needle is slid out the wick will expand leaving air space for the wicking action.


Slide the needle out and cut the wick in the middle. Now we have 2 coils ready to install. Nail clippers to snip the thread.


Most soldering tips are 60* points. When doing fine work you need a narrow point to see what you are doing. It also prevents solder blobs on your wire since when wiped clean just before soldering, not much solder is there. To make a tip like this, if you look they unscrew from the iron. Put it in a drill and lightly pass a file on it till you have the taper you want. Then polish the tip with360 & 400 grit paper till shiney. Removing the scratches from the filing help keep the tip from eroding. The drill chuck may dent the threads. It will still thread back in since its soft copper.


Screw the tip back in the iron tight. Heat it up and re-tin the tip with solder and wipe clean with a damp sponge or wet folded paper towel. Its ready.


How do you know if your coil is the right diameter? Have your atty cup close by and after a couple of wraps hold it over the cup where it is going in. Air has to get by the sides and you can also check what your length will be. It's easier to stretch the coil than compress it. Best to keep the winds close, you can always slide them apart if needed.
When in place in the cup it should be so the feed holes are level or the coil center is slightly above them. This forces the mist to hit the coil when you draw on it.
When considering the gap on the sides, remember that carbon will form eventually so don't get it to close or it may clog faster than normal.
Of course, once you can make your own you can just replace it!
Taking a picture or mentally noting the original coils position, height and dia will be a big plus.

Occasionally, you will notice your soldering iron just isn't as hot as it was. The most common reason is the oxide crust has formed on the threads from heating and cooling. With pliers, loosen the tip some, give it a few twists and tighten it back firmly. 99% of the time it will be back to full heat.

[crazyhorse]

Vaporer, you have put a wealth of great info into this thread. You have done good amigo. You've covered little dumb..... things that the mechanically challenged may never learn in a lifetime.

For example, I just can't express how stupid I felt when I first learned that a loose and floppity tip of a soldering iron could be retightened by simply screwing it in. And then the part about how you can even remove them and grind them the shape you want. Duh. All the years I've had these things, I never knew that. Hah, I always thought the tip had wires hooked to it and the screw behind the collar was what kept it tight.

I hate to cross-contaminate this thread with questions about your other thread but I'm wondering if you've decided to specialize in small round coils rather than continue with the oval/egg shaped coil with the aero advantage?

[Vaporer]

Appreciated crazyhorse.
Actually, the ones I made are still going. I vaped them hard the 1st month or so and needed to do other things. I still use the first ones I made, not as often, as I'm working on some other atty ideas. I may have to tear one down and see what it looks like, but they still vape well. All the dead ones I had were 801's at the time. I have some 510's now I plan on putting one in.

I decided to do this tutorial as stock circular coils. Easier for someone new to this to do. Once they can do this then they should have no problem working with 2 forms and placement.

[dopeless-hopefiend]

Excellent work, Vaporer. Thank you - not only for your time and energy involved thus far - but for your willingness to share. Kudos, my friend. Kudos.

[boredoutofmynut]

yeah brilliant, just what doctor prescribed.what i get stuck with is getting wire throgh ceramic hole which r tiny,any way of making these holes bigger

[Vaporer]

I normally replace the factory wire with 26ga enameled wire.
Most plastic type insulation wires are to big to go through and carry the current.
Even the wire they use can be tough to shove up and grab. It almost seems like the insulation swells or softens. The seem to have a source of a very thin insulated wire.

It's possible to drill it if you could find a drill in diamond or carbide tipped. Gonna be expensive. To me, changing to enameled wire is easier.

This subject is going to be addressed when doing individual models.

[crazyhorse]

I've noticed quite a few of the SLB 801's are factory built with enameled wire.

[kai kane]

Vaporer--A ture masterpiece that will make its way to the Library!! Many have tried and a few have said they have done it, but nobody has actually showed a step by step. ...This thread is one for the ages and a work in progress.

Our hats should go off to Vaporer for all of his contributions here.

Thanks,

Sun

Vaporer,

Many mahalos for your great ''kokua" (help)!

kai

[traderdan]

Very nice thread Vaporer
I liked it .
Very informative will really help new builders get their feet wet , and put some of their attys back on their feet .Where was this when I needed to rebuild mine lol. I bought some diamond and carbide tipped drill bits on e-bay. I would not recommend using the carbide bits. The porcelain dulls them like a wood bit cutting steel,one time use only. I know I've wasted a few, cutting atty cups up doing some mods on the attys . Diamond tips work good but also dull after awhile . Im looking forward to new posts on this thread .

[Vaporer]

Thanks all, doing the best I can with it and working on a couple other things.
So far, not many questions after 1000+ reads. I'm hoping this format is working so I can get some other stuff posted. I think the pictures tell alot.

As with anything else, there seems to be a couple diff types of ceramic being used.
The one type is as hard as any kind I've seen and drilling it seems pointless when you can replace the wire easily with a pretty much trouble free setup.

Thanks for the suggestions put here that have worked for you so far.
Remember that no way is the perfect way for everyone. If you have replaced a step by doing another method, get it posted here.