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"AUTO" Batteries in Ecigarette Technical Issues; Use A m401 'cause I don't like pressing the button to smoke!!( er.. make that vape tee hee) . What ...
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    Super Member ECF Veteran rbonie's Avatar
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    Default "AUTO" Batteries

    Use A m401 'cause I don't like pressing the button to smoke!!( er.. make that vape tee hee) . What makes a battery an automatic verses a "manual" . Is it in the battery?? or is there cicuitry hiding somewhere?

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    Super Member ECF Veteran Applejackson's Avatar
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    Auto batteries either have a vacuum switch (activated by the air being drawn through the battery), or a mic activated switch (activated by sound when drawing through). Because both require the battery to be unsealed, these are not ideal for dripping as it's easy to flood and kill the battery if the juice leaks into the hole. Manual batteries are able to be sealed because they are activated by the button switch and therefore are protected from shorting out in this way. Manuals rarely have a cutoff (that you would ever reach--510s cut off after about 20 seconds). You should give a manual a try. You'd be surprised how quickly you get used to it, and it gives you more control over you draw.

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    Everything he said. Plus:

    -Autos sometimes turn themselves on for no reason (noise/wind)
    -Autos have a tendency to get stuck and either won't turn on or won't turn off until the cutoff is hit, and this is more likely to happen to someone new who is dripping too much or overfilling carts.

    When I first looked into these I thought auto was the way to go, but I think hands-down, manual is the absolute best way and you WILL get used to it.

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    Super Member ECF Veteran rbonie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinD872 View Post
    Everything he said. Plus:

    -Autos sometimes turn themselves on for no reason (noise/wind)
    -Autos have a tendency to get stuck and either won't turn on or won't turn off until the cutoff is hit, and this is more likely to happen to someone new who is dripping too much or overfilling carts.

    When I first looked into these I thought auto was the way to go, but I think hands-down, manual is the absolute best way and you WILL get used to it.
    OK PEOPLE.. Next question...
    Is there a way to use the "Auto" part of a 401 battery? Maybe wire it in series with a 14500???
    BTW What makes the AUTO ? Can it be removed and used elsewhere?

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    Super Member ECF Veteran Applejackson's Avatar
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    Most people (if not all of them) who graduate to a mod that accomodates that kind of battery aren't at all interested in an auto switch. Ask some modders, they MIGHT be able to help.

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    Super Member ECF Veteran gatsby's Avatar
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    Stick to dipping and you should have a problem with the un-sealed battery which will also help avoid the 'sticking on/off' issue since that is usually fluid on the switch (although not always).
    The JantyStick V.1 had an automatic option so there might be a few of those around someplace. Maybe try an ad in the classifieds or contact Janty. I would guess that in theory you could remove the microphone switch from a 401 and wire it into a mod. I think it would be hard to do with the vacuum switches. Check the modders forum. I know there were some old threads showing the innards of various batteries which might help you identify the microphone and give you some ideas about how to wire it.

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    PV Master ECF Veteran Jim Davis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbonie View Post
    OK PEOPLE.. Next question...
    Is there a way to use the "Auto" part of a 401 battery? Maybe wire it in series with a 14500???
    BTW What makes the AUTO ? Can it be removed and used elsewhere?
    In my opinion, it's not worth the time and trouble. The auto units are cheaply made, and very fragile. I wouldn't wast my time with the original manual switches either. There are many well made manual switches out there for mod use. I only save the battery cases for the connectors.

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    Ultra Member ECF Veteran ApOsTle51's Avatar
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    indeed, the auto circuitry is the weak point in regular batts. A manual battery / mod will run the atomizer more effectivley as well.

    you can take the circuitry from a battery and incorporate in into a mod if you want but by using a larger battery you'll have to hold it whilst you use it anyway , so a manual button just seems more sense.

    m401/evo atomizers work great on a 3.7volt mod..I gave up on the evo batts because they were just too tempramental..the evo /m401 atomizers are now on my laser mod and it performs great.



    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/for...mod-guide.html

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    Super Member ECF Veteran rbonie's Avatar
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    [quote=ApOsTle51;539643]indeed, the auto circuitry is the weak point in regular batts. A manual battery / mod will run the atomizer more effectivley as well.

    you can take the circuitry from a battery and incorporate in into a mod if you want but by using a larger battery you'll have to hold it whilst you use it anyway , so a manual button just seems more sense.

    m401/evo atomizers work great on a 3.7volt mod..I gave up on the evo batts because they were just too tempramental..the evo /m401 atomizers are now on my laser mod and it performs great.

    Stand by (eg) hehehehe

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    check out the mods in the mod forum. search for mod or mods will bring up a lot of mods that are nice and battery life is excellent.


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