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Thread: What PCB for 5 pin 5v regulator??

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    Senior Member ECF Veteran TheLizinator's Avatar
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    Default What PCB for 5 pin 5v regulator??

    I've got Connman's awesome 5 pin diagram, but my channeled PCB holes obviously won't line up with the smaller pin spacing on my regulator. Is there somewhere I can get PCB that is laid out for the 5 pins or do I mod some pcb myself? I have the plain board with copper on both sides, but that would keep me from separating the columns.

    TIA,
    Liz

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheLizinator View Post
    I've got Connman's awesome 5 pin diagram, but my channeled PCB holes obviously won't line up with the smaller pin spacing on my regulator. Is there somewhere I can get PCB that is laid out for the 5 pins or do I mod some pcb myself? I have the plain board with copper on both sides, but that would keep me from separating the columns.

    TIA,
    Liz
    Depends on the chip. If you got a TO−220−5 T PACKAGE you can simply manipulate the legs to fit a standard board. If on the other hand you got a TO−263−5 TD PACKAGE or a Dpak (DDpak) etc there are some challenges. These are surface mount and, although you could solder directly to the pins - the body or grounding plane serves as a heat sink and should be directly connected to a board to accomplish the heat drain to keep the chip cool(er). You can either etch you own board or buy a prototype or break out board for the chip. There are several supplier of these. Some that will even order the chip for you and solder it to the board (for a fee) if that's your desire. One such supplier can be found here as an example.

    Good Luck! And Happy Modding
    What have you learned today........

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    mister, mcgyver! i sent you a PM with a dumb question. i'll post it here...
    what happen if i have the regulator b4 the switch?

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    Thanks for the reply! I have a D2Pak LDO 5 volt 3 amp regulator w/control pin from Madvapes and would like to use it if I can find board that lines up with the pins. They are tightly packed together and completely misaligned with the regular PCB I use with the 4 pin regulator.

    Liz

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    I sent you a reply misterD

    TheLizinator: The link I provided above brings you directly to a board that this chip will mount to (hope you have steady hands, a small tip on your iron, a magnifying glass and some solder wick). These chips are pretty quick to solder with the right equipment and just as quick to bridge the leads with one false move (there in lies the need for the wick).

    You can get different configuations of pins alread soldered to the board for a buck that will match you right up to the strip boards 0.1" pitch. I believe they also come with a set of pins - unsoldered - L, Board to board and straight - if you haven't made up your mind as to how you will attach it to the strip board.

    Of course, you can always burn your own board which you may find to your advantage. But then you need........... jesh, I won't go there, at least not tonight.

    Good luck and happy modding

    PS: You might ask for the spec sheet from Mark on the chip (I didn't see a link on his sight for it). It will give you a measured drawing of the footprint for this chip. Compare that to to the drawing provided for the board. The reason I say this is that, for one, I haven't used this chip and for 2 -- although it is a D2Pak - it look a bit "stumpier" than the Dpaks I've used. IE the grounding plane on the board may be more than needed. I guess, if you need room you can always cut/file/grind any excess off......
    Last edited by SurvivorMcGyver; 07-07-2010 at 02:14 AM. Reason: Added PS
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    thanks, mr Mcgyver! guess im gonna just pick up an extra shift at work and get myself a buzz when a 510 version comes out...
    but since you're here and im already hijacking this thread (sorry )
    i shouldn't use LR attys with variable voltage devices right? it'd pull too much amps and would shut off the PV or am i wrong?

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    Since it is a Hi Jack I'll respond here ( I looked for your original thread on this but couldn't find it -- didn't you start one?)

    Anyways, a variable volt device is SWEET for the LR atties as long as you configure it to adjust down to 3.XX and as long as the regulator is rated at 3A+ you should be fine. A 2 amp unit (3.0V w/1.5 Ohm atty = 6 Watts or 2 amps) may work in some circumstance but it's pushing it. The regulation circuit on most adjustable regulators will pull very little current.

    The main thing to consider here too is the amperage capabilities of your power source. I needs to CLEARLY be designed to handle whatever drain you give it!!! High drain batteries are becoming common place so they shouldn't be hard to find.


    Quote Originally Posted by misterD View Post
    thanks, mr Mcgyver! guess im gonna just pick up an extra shift at work and get myself a buzz when a 510 version comes out...
    but since you're here and im already hijacking this thread (sorry )
    i shouldn't use LR attys with variable voltage devices right? it'd pull too much amps and would shut off the PV or am i wrong?
    Last edited by SurvivorMcGyver; 07-07-2010 at 02:33 AM. Reason: Added power source comment
    What have you learned today........

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    Default Soory to lead you astray

    I don't mean to lead you astray and searching liz. Prot-Advantage used to have the footprints clearly linked on their site. I couldn't find them but may have a copy I can scan and send you - or if you e-mail them the may provide.

    I also found the link on madvapes for the chip.

    Sorry I couldn't compare the two for you.
    What have you learned today........

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