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| | #21 |
| NicFiend Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: near Akron, OH, USA
Posts: 1,366
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the solder bridge is just a glop of solder that bridges that gap.
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| | #22 | |
| Full Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Round Rock
Posts: 18
| Quote:
You can do either, but I've only done the pure solder bridge technique. Simple enough... just add a couple of 'drops' of solder to the place where you see the little tab part go under the threads, then use the same connector to run the -/+ wires depending on how you've got that ran to your battery (should be the negative though if you are following Nico's steps accurately - should be the tab right next to the center post connector.) I mistakenly removed the wrong tab and had to do more soldering to connect the other tab to the threads. Minor detail, but I missed it. | |
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| | #23 |
| Full Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Spain
Posts: 27
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Very, very interesting!!
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| | #24 | |
| Super Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Germany NRW
Posts: 455
| Quote:
that you can pull this "tab part" just out. i tried with a very small bladed screwdriver sliding under it and leveled until i got it out (took a minute of sweat) .i could even place it on the lock nut without soldering, building a perfect bridge. my dilemma is, i have currently only 801 Atomizers , otherwise my first homework could be ready.if you think soldering is better, you still can, but much easier.
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| | #25 |
| NicFiend Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: near Akron, OH, USA
Posts: 1,366
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Ok, I have found a glitch, so am updating you all. SOME atomizers do not make contact as well as others. So far, all I have had to do to remedy the problem is to open the center pin a little with tweezers. There is a seam in the center pin. I just stick one side of a pair of tweezers in there and pry it open a millimeter or two, and it works fine. I tried to take pics, but none of them are any good at illustrating this - even in macro mode.
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| | #26 | |
| Senior Member | Quote:
Bravo Kelemvor
__________________ We still talk about Hitler - it doesn't mean we care. | |
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| | #27 |
| Full Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Round Rock
Posts: 18
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So, after finding another DC connector in my desk (the RS close to my house is now sold out) and my last battery box, I decided to make one last mod. As you can see, the UltraFire charger is made a little different than the TrustFire. Works like a charm! Someone else asked about doing this with other batteries (CR23?), but I don't know if this a good idea when dealing with a mod that uses more than 1 battery. I don't want a whole new battery discussion started as in other threads, so this is only for single battery mods. ![]() ![]() ![]() And you can see here why the UltraFire is not a good choice.. ![]() Oh yeah.. I also tried prying up the tab on the DC connector, yep, it worked great too. A little difficult getting a small screwdrivers tip to pry it up, but only took a few minutes and there is no need to solder a bridge. |
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| | #28 |
| ECF Veteran Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: london uk / beijing china
Posts: 3,306
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In cases where the atty center contact does not reach the dc socket center pin, rather than adjust the atty one can build up the center pin a little with solder.
__________________ Link: Vaping Buzzz : Article Base & FAQ ... *New Design |
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| | #29 | |
| Super Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 338
| Quote:
The OEM connectors work *great* though ^_^ | |
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| | #30 | |
| ECF Veteran Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: london uk / beijing china
Posts: 3,306
| Quote:
Ideally the centre pin would be spring loaded.
__________________ Link: Vaping Buzzz : Article Base & FAQ ... *New Design | |
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