HOW TO: DC Jack as 901 Fitting

[nicowolf]

the solder bridge is just a glop of solder that bridges that gap.

[NomasTomas]

Can someone please help me with the solder bridge? What is the easiest way to make the bridge? Is it a short piece of wire or pure solder?

Thanks for helping out a newbie!

You can do either, but I've only done the pure solder bridge technique. Simple enough... just add a couple of 'drops' of solder to the place where you see the little tab part go under the threads, then use the same connector to run the -/+ wires depending on how you've got that ran to your battery (should be the negative though if you are following Nico's steps accurately - should be the tab right next to the center post connector.) I mistakenly removed the wrong tab and had to do more soldering to connect the other tab to the threads. Minor detail, but I missed it.

[Toro]

Very, very interesting!!

[Kelemvor]

Simple enough... just add a couple of 'drops' of solder to the place where you see the little tab part go under the threads

someone on a german forum where i am currently active, brought up the idea
that you can pull this "tab part" just out.

i tried with a very small bladed screwdriver sliding under it and leveled until i got it out (took a minute of sweat) .i could even place it on the lock nut without soldering, building a perfect bridge.

my dilemma is, i have currently only 801 Atomizers , otherwise my first homework could be ready.

if you think soldering is better, you still can, but much easier.

[nicowolf]

Ok, I have found a glitch, so am updating you all. SOME atomizers do not make contact as well as others. So far, all I have had to do to remedy the problem is to open the center pin a little with tweezers. There is a seam in the center pin. I just stick one side of a pair of tweezers in there and pry it open a millimeter or two, and it works fine. I tried to take pics, but none of them are any good at illustrating this - even in macro mode.

[Paradiso]

someone on a german forum where i am currently active, brought up the idea
that you can pull this "tab part" just out.

i tried with a very small bladed screwdriver sliding under it and leveled until i got it out (took a minute of sweat) .i could even place it on the lock nut without soldering, building a perfect bridge.

my dilemma is, i have currently only 801 Atomizers , otherwise my first homework could be ready.

if you think soldering is better, you still can, but much easier.

This is a very good idea, I'm surprised no one commented on it. By prying up on the metal tab, you can bring it up so that it completes the circuit with the nut (and of course, the threads). No solder bridge required.
Bravo Kelemvor

[NomasTomas]

So, after finding another DC connector in my desk (the RS close to my house is now sold out) and my last battery box, I decided to make one last mod.

As you can see, the UltraFire charger is made a little different than the TrustFire. Works like a charm! Someone else asked about doing this with other batteries (CR23?), but I don't know if this a good idea when dealing with a mod that uses more than 1 battery. I don't want a whole new battery discussion started as in other threads, so this is only for single battery mods.







And you can see here why the UltraFire is not a good choice..



Oh yeah.. I also tried prying up the tab on the DC connector, yep, it worked great too. A little difficult getting a small screwdrivers tip to pry it up, but only took a few minutes and there is no need to solder a bridge.

[kinabaloo]

In cases where the atty center contact does not reach the dc socket center pin, rather than adjust the atty one can build up the center pin a little with solder.

[Kewtsquirrel]

In cases where the atty center contact does not reach the dc socket center pin, rather than adjust the atty one can build up the center pin a little with solder.

I tried that on a mod and had the solder break off inside of the atomizers hole, but YMMV.

The OEM connectors work *great* though ^_^

[kinabaloo]

I tried that on a mod and had the solder break off inside of the atomizers hole, but YMMV.

The OEM connectors work *great* though ^_^

Getting a solid connection is essential, bu sanding the solered surface, heating the pin rather than the solder etc.

Ideally the centre pin would be spring loaded.