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| | #1 |
| NicFiend Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: near Akron, OH, USA
Posts: 1,366
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In my search for a connector for the Joye 510, I came across this. I was basically taking apart all the threaded connections in my apartment, testing the threads against my 3 models of PV, then putting them back together. I came across the car adapter for the DSE chargers - that cord that hooks up your DSE charger to your car cigarette lighter. Here is the end I am concerned with ![]() If you unscrew that metal ring behind the tip, you get this ![]() Now that little tip will come out and you'll have this ![]() The larger of those two parts fits the 801 thread nicely and should make a good negative connection. The smaller of the two parts could be a positive center pin with a little imagination and insulation. I did a quick test by wrapping that smaller piece in a piece of crafting foam I got at Walmart for less than a dollar, then wedging the wrapped part into the outer part. Here is what it looked like afterwards. That brown that you see is the foam I used. ![]() ![]() ![]() At this point I tested it with my multimeter and got no continuity between the two parts. Here is a picture of it attached to my 801 atomizer. Sorry, I took these pics before I wrapped that little pin in foam to hold it up inside where you wouldn't be able to see it. You can see that it leaves a little more space to work with than the part salvaged from a dead battery. ![]() ![]() I would suggest though, soldering the positive wire on before insulating the two parts from one another. Once you have it insulated, that center pin would be pretty hard to get at with a soldering iron. I think that epoxy or silicone glue might work as insulators also, but haven't tried them. It will be a while before I get around to making a mod with this, if I ever do - 801 is not a favorite for me - so please feel free to use this info, make some mods, post some pics for us, whatever. I just wanted to share the info right away. Another couple tidbits of info, semi-related: There are other car chargers out there with a metal connector thing like this. I don't own one, so I don't know if they will work or not but it might be worth a shot. These adapters are for sale for $2 each at Ruyandirect and they also have good prices on other PV stuff that might make it worth the wait to get the savings. |
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| | #2 |
| Moderator Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Florida
Posts: 6,743
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Nicowolf--seems like you have solved the 801 threading issue!!! What an excellent find. I am going to give it a go on a Screw Driver that I will be building---Thanks!!! --------Sun
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| | #3 |
| NicFiend Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: near Akron, OH, USA
Posts: 1,366
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| | #4 |
| ECF Veteran Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Massachusetts - USA
Posts: 768
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Great find Nico - I will definitely give this a try. I don't see why some strategically placed epoxy wouldn't workk as a good insulator between the +/-.
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| | #5 |
| ECF Veteran |
The 1/4" phone jack is much easier solution that is available locally to pretty much everyone. I tried to find the thread for that a few times with no luck. It should be stickied since its a perfect connect for 801's.
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| | #6 | |
| Moderator Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Florida
Posts: 6,743
| Quote:
Hi Nuck--glad to see you zeroing in on the 801. Problem with the 1/4" phone jack is that with some of the "801" styles, such as the RN4072 --there is a bit of a connection issue that we have run afoul with. I think it is the quality control of the atomizers as the 1/4" is a perfect fit and the 1/4" jack is surely nothing to be dismissed. If you do employ one, we have found that not every atomizer is going to fire on it. But that again is an issue too with the original battery threadings also!!! ----------Sun | |
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| | #7 | |
| Super Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 338
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Worst case scenario, you got to dremel something, and thats always worth it. | |
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| | #8 | |
| ECF Veteran | Quote:
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| | #9 | |
| ECF Veteran Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Massachusetts - USA
Posts: 768
| Quote:
I've also found, that the best way to install the center pin for me, is to fill the connector with epoxy, then drill a hole in the center of the epoxy once it has fully cured, and add a counter sink, then insert the screw so it's both counter sunk and so the end protrudes for the positive connection. For the negative connection, I snip one of the originally intended negative tabs and solder it to the threaded body of the connector. I also remove all of the washers. This can be done with some small snips and a pair of needle nose pliers.
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| | #10 | |
| Senior Member | Quote:
__________________ its all about my 510.... ![]() | |
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