Try here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/for...arger-mod.html Mogur, the genius, has worked out one solution.
Try here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/for...arger-mod.html Mogur, the genius, has worked out one solution.
Can't we all just get along?
I made one!
Thank you so much Nicowolf for posting the great instructions. I followed them exactly, except for the addition of a 5mm red LED and 100ohm 1/4w resistor (as suggested by someone else, don't remember who, sorry!), and this thing works perfectly!
I was going to use the Type N connector for the atomiser, but I had a dead 901 battery anyway, so I used the connector from that for this one. I have a dead 510 passthrough that I'll probably use for the next one.
One thing I found useful (and that might help someone else) for getting the holes in the case, was a "grinding point" I got at Home Depot. I don't have a specialized dremel-type tool, just a regular drill, and this thing worked pretty well at getting nice clean round holes for the switch and atomizer. I drilled holes using regular drill bits, up to the largest one I had, and then used this thing, little by little, to get the holes to just the right size.
If anyone wants to try it, the part is a "Vermont American 3/4" x 1 1/8" Grinding Point", and was around $4 I think, at Home Depot. It's made for metal and pretty much just melts the plastic, but the excess can just be trimmed off with a sharp utility knife to get nice clean holes.
Thanks again to Nicowolf and everyone who has posted tips on this site. It is a great resource!
Ok question for people more educated in electricity than I am. I cut off most of the aluminium tube that holds the battery to get to the connector and pulled the black plastic they had behind it out. I soldered the positive wire through the middle without incedent. But, the connector itself is still inside its tubing and it apears to be epoxied in rather permanatly (trying to build with j118 battery connector). Try as I might I can't seem to solder the ground wire to the inside of the connector/aluminium piece it comes out way too easily. My question is, will an epoxied nut on the inside of the case make a suitable ground or is this just a horrible idea? If not what would make a suitable ground to get this thing going? As always any help would be greatly appreciated![]()
Sorry, but I just cant quite grasp the situation ...
Any chance of a photo?
Can you not solder to the original solder point?
E-liquid testing - how to test your own
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The place where the ground wire was before is covered in what aprears to be white epoxy. I'd go right to the factory wire but it was so tiny it ripped right out taking out the battery from the tube. What I got is about a half inch of aluminum tube with a small amount of what im assuming is brass. The brass only goes up about 1/8th inch of the tube and its threaded to boot (to hold a piece of plastic I had to destroy just to get in there). Its got a nylon spacer inbetween the two pieces so I first tried to solder the ground right to the tiny bit of brass thats there. But, the combination of small tube , little brass and threads has circumvented my attempts to get a good connection in there. I been at it a couple hours, and I have experience soldering to motherboards. My immediate thought is just take a sizeable piece of metal and solder the ground wire to that then epoxy it into the little black box. Drilling a hole for a small screw and screwing it into the brass then soldering to that also crossed my mind. But, I don't have the tools for it on hand nor do I know anyone who does
My question really boils down to if soldering to the atty connector can't be achieved what are my options; won't any old chunk of metal work for this purpose or is my understanding of electricity that bad? (Better safe than sorry I'm a computer nerd not an electrician)
Last edited by kinabaloo; 06-27-2009 at 06:32 PM.
E-liquid testing - how to test your own
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If you have a multimeter, test for continuity between the brass part and the aluminum part. If you have continuity, you CAN solder to any old hunk of metal that you can force to constantly touch that aluminum (press fit). If you do not have continuity, you may have to look at cutting away more of that aluminum to expose more of the brass part for soldering. It might also help the soldering process if you clean that brass part, then rough it up a little with steel wool or sandpaper, THEN solder (dried up juice and oxidized brass can make soldering difficult). Experience with motherboards is a huge bonus in this venture, just don't forget that the e-liquid gets everywhere (kinda like tar from analogs in this respect - I'm sure you've had to clean the dustbunnies out of a smoker's computer).
I just got my Nicostick up and running again with better soldering. My question is why do I get more vapor with it than I do with my 801 or 901?
THINK OUTSIDE THE PACK !!!!!!
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