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The ABCs of batteries in Modding Forum; Thanks Sun, But the blue are Protected too. That's what I got for 14500's. I was shopping tonight and saw ...
  1. #51
    Ultra Member ECF Veteran four2109's Avatar
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    Thanks Sun, But the blue are Protected too. That's what I got for 14500's. I was shopping tonight and saw the price difference. It's not much, but I just wanted to make sure I am not missing something.

    DealExtreme: $8.18 TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Battery (2500mAh 2-Pack Blue)
    TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Battery (2500mAh 2-Pack Blue)

    Price: $8.18

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  3. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by 42109 View Post
    Thanks Sun, But the blue are Protected too. That's what I got for 14500's. I was shopping tonight and saw the price difference. It's not much, but I just wanted to make sure I am not missing something.

    DealExtreme: $8.18 TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Battery (2500mAh 2-Pack Blue)
    TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Battery (2500mAh 2-Pack Blue)

    Price: $8.18

    Less of a Protection 42--there is no short protection as stated (- The voltage of full charge and cut-off discharge is 4.2V and 2.75V)---only protected for over and under charging.

    Sun

  4. #53
    Ultra Member ECF Veteran four2109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sun Vaporer View Post
    Less of a Protection 42--there is no short protection as stated (- The voltage of full charge and cut-off discharge is 4.2V and 2.75V)---only protected for over and under charging.

    Sun
    Thanks again Sun. My 14500's have it. Now I know that you have to compare the fine print in the photos.
    Thanks

  5. #54
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    AND, the link you posted at the top of the page was for 18650 batteries, which are bigger than the 14500 (18mm diameter and 65mm length vs 14mm diameter and 50mm length).

  6. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cellmeister View Post
    Sorry But This Is Wrong: Maybe Thats Why No One Asked You.

    Start Quote:
    "Also, don't charge until the green light comes on and then give it few more hours, like I have heard repeated so often. That is a myth leftover from the days of NiCds and NiMHs that have a 'memory effect'. Lithium ions have no such memory effect. None. Nada. They don't need to be 'topped off' like NiMHs, nor frequently discharge cycled like NiCds. They do like a moderate discharge to 3 volts or so every 100 charges to recalibrate the electronic surveillence circuit that monitors its charge status." End Quote

    If You Don't Know What Your Posting

    Start Quote: "I am certainly no expert, and have learned a considerable portion of what I know about batteries in just the last few weeks" End Quote

    You Should Not Post It Here, You Are Causing Confusion To The Readers With Non-Facts...

    RIGHT WAY On How To Charge Your Devices Battery: Always Follow The Manufacturers Battery Charging & Use Procedures. PERIOD!

    For Proper Battery Information & Other Battery Information Please Use Wiki or Any Other Legitimate Site.
    I too find that information to be confusing....

    If the green light comes on and the battery is still trickle charging, all you are doing is charging the battery to it's max capacity. This is a bad thing for Lithium batteries.

    The longevity of lithium batteries is affected by two things: Temperature and charge capacity. Lithium Batteries should be charged to 4.2 volts and then removed from charging. Charging batteries to 4.35 volts will HALVE the battery's life! A continuous trickle charge above 4.05V/cell causes plating of metallic lithium that could lead to instabilities and compromise safety.

    Lithium-ion is designed to operate safely within their normal operating voltage but become unstable if charged to higher voltages. When charging above 4.30V, the cell causes plating of metallic lithium on the anode; the cathode material becomes an oxidizing agent, loses stability and releases oxygen.

    So, assuming that the charger is doing it's job, it should cut off the charge at 4.2 volts. Assuming it ISN'T, the battery itself should cut off at 4.3 volts.

    Preparing new lithium-ion for use

    Unlike nickel and lead-based batteries, a new lithium-ion pack does not need cycling through charging and discharging. Priming will make little difference because the maximum capacity of lithium-ion is available right from the beginning. Neither does a full discharge improve the capacity of a faded pack. However, a full discharge/charge will reset the digital circuit of a 'smart' battery to improve the state-of-charge estimation
    In short, there's no good reason to spend 8 hours charging the battery before use.

    One major point: Don't forget the effect on temperature on your batteries! If you are storing batteries for potential backup, keep them in the fridge with a 40% charge on them for longest life. DO NOT charge the battery and then put it on the shelf. DO NOT freeze batteries! The longer your battery stays at 100% charge, the shorter its life. (So, it's kinda a good thing that the batteries don't come pre-charged.)

    If you'd like to follow the manufacturer's guidelines, then do so. But the original poster was correct, and for someone to say "Noone asked you" and "You don't know what you're posting" is both rude and foolish. There were alot better ways that could have been handled. A simple "As a supplier I always recommend following the manufacturer's guidelines" would have sufficed.

  7. #56
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    Reading this thread was like watching a train wreck or one of those really bad "B" rated movies. It's horrible, but somehow, you just can't tear yourself away from it. I'm so glad things finally settled down. I do know one thing. On the forums that I own I would have PM'd him to settle down and if it continued I would have banned him. It's one thing to disagree with some one. I've done that many times bot on line and off. But to attack some one like that it ridiculous. His very first two sentences were about as confrontational as they could have been. I agree with the majority of people here on two things. One, the OP provided some good information and it was appreciated. Second, the attacks by cellmeister were not appropriate.

    Thank_____It's______Over____Done______!
    ______God____Finally_____And_____With
    __


    Sorry, I couldn't resist.
    Last edited by grumpster; 08-31-2009 at 01:06 PM.
    chaos-7 likes this.

  8. #57
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    Thanks for all the great info on batteries. A question I purchased a USB battery to use with my passthrough and it is ..... 10WH what does that mean?

  9. #58
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    I need help and some advice. I wanted to know what is the difference, or if there is any between a 16340 battery and 123aCR battery. I have gone on some sites and they are listed together. Are they the same? I am looking for the 16340 battery to put in my mod but when I call and asked a battery store they said oh yeah its the CR 123. Now I am just really confused.
    Is there a difference between
    1. CR123 and 123aCR
    2. CR123 and a 16340
    3. 123acr and a 16340
    Can you guys help me out with this one.

  10. #59
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    Google finds almost no hits for "123aCR" - do you mean CR123a?

    CR123a, and it's rechargeable kin the RCR123a, are 3.0 volts.
    16340 are 3.7 volts.
    CR123 and CR123a are the same thing.

  11. #60
    Super Member ECF Veteran smokie's Avatar
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    Default Are the 3.0 Volt CR123 the same as ICR123, RCR123, LIR123

    Quote Originally Posted by Scottes View Post
    Google finds almost no hits for "123aCR" - do you mean CR123a?

    CR123a, and it's rechargeable kin the RCR123a, are 3.0 volts.
    16340 are 3.7 volts.
    CR123 and CR123a are the same thing.
    Are the 3.0 Volt CR123 the same as ICR123, RCR123, LIR123
    All reviews are my sole opinions, Vape On, Vape Strong, and Vape in Public, Smokie, FUHGEDDABOUDIT! http://www.stickam.com/smokie901
    http://www.youtube.com/user/step07726?feature=mhum

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