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Old 10-26-2009, 03:35 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieJ View Post
Thanks for all the great info on batteries. A question I purchased a USB battery to use with my passthrough and it is ..... 10WH what does that mean?
It means it is 10 Working Hours (WH) based on the ma or a output that is usually printed on the device.
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:46 PM   #62
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WH is watt-hours, isn't it?

WH / Voltage = Amp Hours

10 / 3.7 = 2.7 Amp Hours, or about equivalent to an 18650 (2600 mAH = 2.6 AH)
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:57 AM   #63
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Quote:
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A 400 mAh battery will deliver 400 mA for an hour before it goes dead, or 200 mA for two hours. A 200 mAh battery will deliver 200 mA for an hour before it goes dead, or 400 mA for a half hour. See the relationship? It's like the size of a bottle of water. You can pour it out fast or slow, but the bigger the bottle, the longer it lasts at the same discharge rate.

The above isn't exactly true, because a battery isn't exactly like a bottle of water. A battery will last a little longer if you are easy on it. So, a 200 mAh battery will actually produce 20 mA for 10 hours, and that is what the sales department advertises for that battery (20mA*10hours = 200mAh). But if you discharge it at 400 mA, you wont actually get a half hour out of it. The sales department of course, picks a very low discharge rate to measure the amp hours, for bragging rights. If this paragraph is confusing, ignore it, the previous statements are close enough to at least compare the capacity of two different batteries.
This was probably the first thing I've read on batteries that I actually understood. Thanks
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:33 AM   #64
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can anyone confirm if this is normal...i checked my 510 battery and the it reads arounr 3.2 to 3.3 volts only...(tested both batteries i have...both had the same reading). am just curious if this is normal...considering that iv'e been reading that 510 batteries should give out around 3.6volts...

ps...tested them on full charge
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Old 11-09-2009, 05:58 PM   #65
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Hey y'all,

Glad this thread is here, even though prickly. To begin, my background is 30 years of Engineering drawing: Civil, Geotechnical, Structural, Environmental, etc. In short, maps and mechanical processes. For instance, I could draw an assembly blueprint of your entire car and know how the whole thing works or, one of your town's water system.
Conversely, all I know about chemicals is which ones shouldn't be in groundwater and how to remediate them so you and I don't become mutants. As for things electrical, forget it... you could take my knowledge, roll it around in a thimble and still hear an echo.

Fortunately for me, ignorance, unlike stupity, is curable and the posts so far have been very informative. Tip o' the hat to ya.

Please be patient with me as I want to eventually mod. (Waste decades of designing, are you kidding?) In keeping with fond memories of the bongs of my misspent youth, it'll probably be a personal desk unit of a hooka variety with a re-warming device near the mouthpiece of the tube and an auto-refiller juice reservoir. Now would be the time for anyone to tell me if such is being made... or to beat me to it.

First igmo question: Is it true all e-cig batts are made in China still?

If so, do they still have laxer safety rules than typical US Li-ion batts?
In reading up on them I actually began to wonder if the dock stopages of e-cig shipments might have more to do with questionable batts than the "Devil-e-cigs" themselves. Hmmmm.

Lastly, do manual switches act as an over-ride of internal batt safety features, somehow, and if so, could they pose any dangers auto types wouldn't have?

OK, that's enough revelation of ignorance for one sitting.

Thanks again for posting here.

Genie
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:17 PM   #66
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grrrrr the chart is gone ?? i see a box with a red x in it ..... *cry*

i wanted to know what batts to use.... i went to dealextreme.com there are so many damn batts its crazy

does the Mah matter? or can i pick anyone?

im lookin for 2 AA batts that kick a$$ lol
would any of these be decent? 18650- 3.7v-2400Mah
or http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19770
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3435
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21474

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Old 11-12-2009, 04:48 AM   #67
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more mAh means more life, longer vaping time. But some companies - *fire - aren't always so accurate in their listings of mAh.

What mod are you using?
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Old 11-13-2009, 03:55 AM   #68
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does the battery matter to what mod im using scottes? = i dunno
i need double A batts though... AA

if it does matter, im thinkin of makin a version of a nico stick, maybe a flashlight mod too.

i wanna buy some batts tonight but i dunno which ones to get... sounds by your last post it doesnt matter ... as long as they are AA the Mah doesnt matter.
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:01 PM   #69
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Generally, the term AA indicates a 1.5-volt battery (or 1.2 for rechargeables). The 14500 is a AA-sized battery which puts out 3.7 volts, which is the voltage required for atomizers. One could hook up 3 AAs in series - with rechargeables this is 3.6 volts, which is more than close enough.

The mAh doesn't matter. Higher is better for longer life, but a lower mAh will still work. Don't believe the mAh rating on the no-name blue batteries, or batteries from Trustfire or Ultrafire. When tested, those never live up to their stated mAh. Batteries from AW and Tenergy are more likely to have more honest mAh statements.
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:00 PM   #70
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If a protected cell detects a short and shuts down current flow,is there a way to reset the battery once the short has been corrected,or is it like a fuse and thats it???
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