I hate to say this, guys, whenever you add resistance to a load or circuit you lower the current to the switch to handle. What you need to do is use a switch with higher ampere rating. At least 3 amps. The higher amp battery capability is not the cause of the problem. It only magnified the inadequacies of the circuit's components and it is the SWITCH. Switch to a different switch, Nick.
I just got tired of my RCA switch cause the ones that are available at my local RS are too bad quality made (the ones that are built with good quality are just too big for this purpose) and the main problem with them is that the male rca connector just needs less than ¼ of a turn to get loose from the barrel where the switch is, so I had to constantly check it out to see if it was tight enough, I even had a couple of short circuit problems (my batteries didn’t vented but they really got hot very soon)
So I made a new switch out of an old 901 battery and three 510 connectors (two female and one male)
The first step was to add a 510 female connector to the body of the mini mag, so I had to bore out the light bulb end of the body with a file, enough for the 510 connector to be press-fitted in there:
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The next step was to make the switch. For this I used an old 901 battery pipe, the reason to use a 901 is because the distance from the connector end of the pipe to the switch hole is exactly what I needed, so I just had to cut the other end to the proper size (with a pipe cutter). So in one end I inserted a male connector from an old 510 atty and a 510 female on the other side. Between them I put a RS switch (the ones with two legs) and in this case I had to solder the switch to both connectors center posts. And I mounted the switch on the same black plastic thing where the original 901 mini switch was mounted, I just had to cut it to the same size of the switch and file the sides of it, cause the RS swith is too wide to go in there and hot glued the switch to the black plastic thing. And here is the resulting switch:
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More pics:
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There are some details that I ran into when assembling it together that I don’t mention here, but if someone is interested just tell me and I will make a step by step tutorial.
Sounds good if you utilized the whole circuit module from the old battery otherwise the switch will burn-up prematurely. You see, the switch is just used as a trigger to turn on a power transistor. I hope it works for you.
NICO
Thanks nico, somebody warned me about those switches earlier. But I didn't use the one from the battery, I installed a switch from radioshack and used the black plastic holder to give stability to the switch
Warp,
This is a very good idea for making compatibility easy. I have done a few mods based on this RCA idea, but simplified it even more by putting the switch on the main connector piece so that all your power sources can be straight thru power with absolutely no switching to worry about. A USB cable conversion takes 5 minutes... just snip the length you want and solder power/gnd and you're done. Take a flashlight (I use a Romisen) chop the top off, solder 2 wires to a female RCA and you're done. I did the Romisen in 15 minutes, and the USB cable in 5 minutes. The connector was simple also and only took about 15 minutes. It makes it much easier because you dont have to worry about installing switches on ANY of your power sources. I'm just using a tactile switch and so far I haven't had any problems with them. If my switch becomes a problem I only have to correct it once, and I don't have to worry about replacing switches on all my power sources. Everything is plug and play with RCA. Great idea. It's not that hard to add a switch to everything, but I figure you're always going to want to add more power sources, and your connector is essential, so I put the switch on the connector and can use it for anything.
Last edited by Bastage; 04-01-2010 at 01:24 AM.
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