Switchless copper pipe mod - e-cigarette-forum.com • The place for electronic cigarette reviews, news and chat

crazyhorse · 10-25-2009, 04:40 AM

I used a 2½" length of ½" copper pipe, two end caps, a short piece of 0.496" OD compression spring, a ¼" phone jack, a bolt, insulating sleeve, an unidentified piece of hardware out of my junk bin and a 14500 battery.

The unidentified piece of hardware resembles a stainless steel bolt of 0.1875 diameter and ¾" length. Except for it's not threaded and has a thin, flat, round head. I have no idea what it is other than a thing I've had in a box of miscellaneous stainless steel junk laying around for about 20 years. Maybe it's some type of rivet.

I drilled a closely matching hole in the bottom end cap and inserted this thing which is used as a plunger to push against the bottom (negative) end of the battery. This lifts the battery toward the bolt in the phone jack atomizer connector to make the circuit. When I release pressure from the "thing", the compression spring in the top end pushes the battery back away from the positive connector (bolt) and breaks the circuit. The copper body is the negative side of the circuit.

It's all very simple with no wiring, soldering and best of all, no limited-life ratshack electrical switch. It's simple to operate. Just push the "thing" with a pinky finger as if it was a momentary push switch and take a hit

I would post some pictures but I had to ship my camera back to Canon for a repair. Basically, it looks identical to the pipe mod in this post, and uses the same parts, but no electrical switch.
½" pipe mod v 1.0

Edit: Forgot to mention, I also used a very lightweight compression spring to stabilize the "thing" and hold it against the bottom of the battery. This leaves about ¼" inch of this manual switch protruding beyond the end cap.

Also, this apparatus seems to produce more vapor than a mod with an electrical switch and wiring. Maybe the direct connection with no circuitry in between is more efficient.

crazyhorse · 10-31-2009, 03:59 AM

I got the camera back. Here's a picture of all hardware components. I could have done a better job with the photography. Sorry but you get the idea. A very basic apparatus with nothing to goof up.

1 pipe, 2 end caps, 1 insulated brass machine screw (loose - falls out for easy cleaning/provides for good airflow), 2 springs, 1 phone jack and the "thing".

sunsetnkc · 11-03-2009, 01:46 AM

Can you detail your switch more so we can build one?

dalton3699 · 11-03-2009, 02:37 AM

i second that

j0ker · 11-03-2009, 02:45 AM

Wow...Thats really great! More details on the switch would be awesome!

crazyhorse · 11-03-2009, 04:13 AM

Maybe this picture of the assembly order will help.

The small compression spring fits over the shank of the plunger thingy. The shank inserts through the hole in the end cap. The "pad" end of the thingy contacts the negative end of the battery.

The large compression spring goes in the tubing above the battery and is compressed between the battery and the end cap/atomizer connector. The bolt, if I remember correctly is a #10 x ¾" brass machine screw with the head ground to the shape you see. This is screwed into some miscellaneous wire insulation and drops into the ratshack ¼" phone jack atomizer connector

The larger spring overpowers the smaller spring which creates a mechanical separation between the atomizer and the positive terminal of the battery. This breaks the contact. The smaller spring keeps the thingy stable within the tube/end cap and keeps it in contact with the negative end of the battery.

To power the atomizer, press against the protruding end of the plunger thingy which pushes the positive terminal battery into the end of the insulated bolt and enables contact with the atomizer.

Getting the spring lengths and tensions properly balanced is important but it's not hard to do at all. It's also crucial that the battery slides freely within the tube.

You can find suitable springs at an old timey independent hardware store. Don't even think about wasting your time looking at places like Lowz or HD.

Not too sure what can be readily found to work as a plunger thingy but I've determined mine is a non-threaded stud called a "weld rooted fastener". I imagine something like a 20d nail would work just fine if you have a bench grinder to cut the nail and shape the end. You'll also need a closely matching drill bit to perforate the end cap.

crazyhorse · 11-03-2009, 04:44 AM

My plunger thingy is a PGZ 1910 weld pin.
On this page: PGZ Weld Pin

BeRight · 11-03-2009, 05:43 AM

The positive terminal (bolt) looks like it could short against the large spring and then to the copper (-).

Kelemvor · 11-03-2009, 05:59 AM

should be easy to isolate the big spring with overhead folium or similar.
interesting concept. 1st time is see it explained by one little picture.

additionalley i would use folium on the copper body too. just for the case a battery with damaged isolation is inserted in the wrong direction.

crazyhorse · 11-03-2009, 06:05 AM

It can't happen. There's way too much clearance between the spring and the terminal.

11-03-2009, 01:46 AM	#3
sunsetnkc Full Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Kansas City Posts: 48	Can you detail your switch more so we can build one? __________________

11-03-2009, 02:45 AM	#5
j0ker Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 162	Wow...Thats really great! More details on the switch would be awesome! __________________

11-03-2009, 05:59 AM	#9
Kelemvor Super Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Germany NRW Posts: 455	should be easy to isolate the big spring with overhead folium or similar. interesting concept. 1st time is see it explained by one little picture. additionalley i would use folium on the copper body too. just for the case a battery with damaged isolation is inserted in the wrong direction. __________________

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10-25-2009, 04:40 AM	#1
crazyhorse Super Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Baja Alabama Posts: 537	Switchless copper pipe mod I used a 2½" length of ½" copper pipe, two end caps, a short piece of 0.496" OD compression spring, a ¼" phone jack, a bolt, insulating sleeve, an unidentified piece of hardware out of my junk bin and a 14500 battery. The unidentified piece of hardware resembles a stainless steel bolt of 0.1875 diameter and ¾" length. Except for it's not threaded and has a thin, flat, round head. I have no idea what it is other than a thing I've had in a box of miscellaneous stainless steel junk laying around for about 20 years. Maybe it's some type of rivet. I drilled a closely matching hole in the bottom end cap and inserted this thing which is used as a plunger to push against the bottom (negative) end of the battery. This lifts the battery toward the bolt in the phone jack atomizer connector to make the circuit. When I release pressure from the "thing", the compression spring in the top end pushes the battery back away from the positive connector (bolt) and breaks the circuit. The copper body is the negative side of the circuit. It's all very simple with no wiring, soldering and best of all, no limited-life ratshack electrical switch. It's simple to operate. Just push the "thing" with a pinky finger as if it was a momentary push switch and take a hit I would post some pictures but I had to ship my camera back to Canon for a repair. Basically, it looks identical to the pipe mod in this post, and uses the same parts, but no electrical switch. ½" pipe mod v 1.0 Edit: Forgot to mention, I also used a very lightweight compression spring to stabilize the "thing" and hold it against the bottom of the battery. This leaves about ¼" inch of this manual switch protruding beyond the end cap. Also, this apparatus seems to produce more vapor than a mod with an electrical switch and wiring. Maybe the direct connection with no circuitry in between is more efficient. Last edited by crazyhorse; 10-26-2009 at 02:44 AM.

10-31-2009, 03:59 AM	#2
crazyhorse Super Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Baja Alabama Posts: 537	I got the camera back. Here's a picture of all hardware components. I could have done a better job with the photography. Sorry but you get the idea. A very basic apparatus with nothing to goof up. 1 pipe, 2 end caps, 1 insulated brass machine screw (loose - falls out for easy cleaning/provides for good airflow), 2 springs, 1 phone jack and the "thing".

11-03-2009, 02:37 AM	#4
dalton3699 Full Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 20	i second that

11-03-2009, 04:13 AM	#6
crazyhorse Super Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Baja Alabama Posts: 537	Maybe this picture of the assembly order will help. The small compression spring fits over the shank of the plunger thingy. The shank inserts through the hole in the end cap. The "pad" end of the thingy contacts the negative end of the battery. The large compression spring goes in the tubing above the battery and is compressed between the battery and the end cap/atomizer connector. The bolt, if I remember correctly is a #10 x ¾" brass machine screw with the head ground to the shape you see. This is screwed into some miscellaneous wire insulation and drops into the ratshack ¼" phone jack atomizer connector The larger spring overpowers the smaller spring which creates a mechanical separation between the atomizer and the positive terminal of the battery. This breaks the contact. The smaller spring keeps the thingy stable within the tube/end cap and keeps it in contact with the negative end of the battery. To power the atomizer, press against the protruding end of the plunger thingy which pushes the positive terminal battery into the end of the insulated bolt and enables contact with the atomizer. Getting the spring lengths and tensions properly balanced is important but it's not hard to do at all. It's also crucial that the battery slides freely within the tube. You can find suitable springs at an old timey independent hardware store. Don't even think about wasting your time looking at places like Lowz or HD. Not too sure what can be readily found to work as a plunger thingy but I've determined mine is a non-threaded stud called a "weld rooted fastener". I imagine something like a 20d nail would work just fine if you have a bench grinder to cut the nail and shape the end. You'll also need a closely matching drill bit to perforate the end cap.

11-03-2009, 04:44 AM	#7
crazyhorse Super Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Baja Alabama Posts: 537	My plunger thingy is a PGZ 1910 weld pin. On this page: PGZ Weld Pin

11-03-2009, 05:43 AM	#8
BeRight Full Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Ellicott City, Maryland Posts: 122	The positive terminal (bolt) looks like it could short against the large spring and then to the copper (-).

11-03-2009, 06:05 AM	#10
crazyhorse Super Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Baja Alabama Posts: 537	It can't happen. There's way too much clearance between the spring and the terminal.