Video- How to Make a 5 Volt Mod "Detonator" - E-Cigarette Forum

Robert · 10-29-2009, 06:55 PM

I posted this before but I think it got lost when my Photobucket went down. So here it is again. It's not the best but I hope it helps those on the fence about making there own.

YouTube - 5 Volt Detonator Intro

YouTube - 5 Volt Detonator Part 1

YouTube - 5 Volt Detonator Part 2

YouTube - 5 Volt Detonator Part 3

YouTube - Det Pt 4

YouTube - DIY Det PT 5

youngunner · 11-02-2009, 12:15 AM

Hey Robert- I got the wiring figured out for the Dentenator- the only guestion I have is about the ground coming off the 5v regulator to the battery. Did you ground it directly on the flashlight board? or should I run a wire down the flashlight to ground on the neg side of the battery?

Robert · 11-02-2009, 01:40 AM

It spelled "Detonator"

You can ground it to the board. The ground contacts on the board rest on the little lip inside the fl body- and this is the weak point. The spring on the pos connection wants to push the board up -- thus disconnecting ground from the body and the back switch- I tried holding down the board, extra solder on the neg connections- all work but could fail- finnally I fixed the weakest part. Now I simply drill a hole through the body near the bottom of the board and solder a wire to the neg connection on the board and run the bare wire through the body- fill the hole and wire with soldier and cover with a nice jp weld lump- presto- perfect ground finnally. All my mods work great but the ground sometime need adjusting till it was perfect- tested and proven perfect. My newest one has a very very bright lock out blue lLED and and green atty LED. I drilled safety vent holes. Everythiing inide is jb incased and jb weld was poured over entinre insides making it virtually a solid state piece- tough.

sklammy · 11-02-2009, 03:07 AM

if you're good at soldering, solder a wire to the metal base of the switch or loop a wire around the base of the threads before you install it. could work

Robert · 11-02-2009, 06:05 AM

No, the way I described it is the way it should be. Am I good at soldering? lol- well I've soldered quite a few of these together- it dosent have to be to the base of the threads or anywhere near the end as long as ground is firmly attached to the body. Aluminum is terrible to solder to since it displaces heat so quickly so drilling and soldering through hole was the best option.

sklammy · 11-02-2009, 06:21 PM

Sorry Robert I know your good at soldering, I was refearing to the other gentlmen Dave

ps ya I know bad spelling, I can't drive and spell at same time...

youngunner · 11-02-2009, 07:44 PM

i suck at soldering and sorry I misspelled your creation

Shreck · 11-03-2009, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sklammy

if you're good at soldering, solder a wire to the metal base of the switch or loop a wire around the base of the threads before you install it. could work

This actually works very well , and you dont have to drill a hole in the body this way. The switch body is grounded to the casing as soon as you install it, and I doubt its going to be coming loose. If it does then you have other problems..

Robert · 11-03-2009, 08:23 PM

Thanks- But I got my first one from Shreck- it was a little different- but basic idea was his! I just took off a button added 2 lights and changed the name.

I wish Maddog was here- as far as I know he is the real creator of the Magnum- but it was a 6 volt unit.

Maddog- Thank you, where ever you are.

I thought of running an ground wire to the end, but no. I like my drilled body with ground solidly attached to the body. Whenn I start to attach the end cap- you can tell by watching the green LED that the connection is solid. Eventually I will put an LED at the endcap end. I will need the room to run some wires down there.

CCutty · 11-05-2009, 08:10 PM

I love the part when your singing the hook to "Big Time". I'm on my way I'm making it, huh!!

I'd like to try this out when I get a chance

11-02-2009, 12:15 AM	#2
youngunner Super Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Tampa FL Posts: 467	Hey Robert- I got the wiring figured out for the Dentenator- the only guestion I have is about the ground coming off the 5v regulator to the battery. Did you ground it directly on the flashlight board? or should I run a wire down the flashlight to ground on the neg side of the battery? __________________ Proud Owner of: Silver Bullet v1.1, Janty Stick v2, Janty Kissbox, Joye 510

11-02-2009, 07:44 PM	#7
youngunner Super Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Tampa FL Posts: 467	i suck at soldering and sorry I misspelled your creation __________________ Proud Owner of: Silver Bullet v1.1, Janty Stick v2, Janty Kissbox, Joye 510

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11-02-2009, 01:40 AM	#3
Robert Moved On Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: San Diego, CA. Posts: 1,278 Tweet this post!	It spelled "Detonator" You can ground it to the board. The ground contacts on the board rest on the little lip inside the fl body- and this is the weak point. The spring on the pos connection wants to push the board up -- thus disconnecting ground from the body and the back switch- I tried holding down the board, extra solder on the neg connections- all work but could fail- finnally I fixed the weakest part. Now I simply drill a hole through the body near the bottom of the board and solder a wire to the neg connection on the board and run the bare wire through the body- fill the hole and wire with soldier and cover with a nice jp weld lump- presto- perfect ground finnally. All my mods work great but the ground sometime need adjusting till it was perfect- tested and proven perfect. My newest one has a very very bright lock out blue lLED and and green atty LED. I drilled safety vent holes. Everythiing inide is jb incased and jb weld was poured over entinre insides making it virtually a solid state piece- tough.

11-02-2009, 03:07 AM	#4
sklammy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 150	if you're good at soldering, solder a wire to the metal base of the switch or loop a wire around the base of the threads before you install it. could work

11-02-2009, 06:05 AM	#5
Robert Moved On Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: San Diego, CA. Posts: 1,278 Tweet this post!	No, the way I described it is the way it should be. Am I good at soldering? lol- well I've soldered quite a few of these together- it dosent have to be to the base of the threads or anywhere near the end as long as ground is firmly attached to the body. Aluminum is terrible to solder to since it displaces heat so quickly so drilling and soldering through hole was the best option.

11-02-2009, 06:21 PM	#6
sklammy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 150	Sorry Robert I know your good at soldering, I was refearing to the other gentlmen Dave ps ya I know bad spelling, I can't drive and spell at same time...

11-03-2009, 08:23 PM	#9
Robert Moved On Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: San Diego, CA. Posts: 1,278 Tweet this post!	Thanks- But I got my first one from Shreck- it was a little different- but basic idea was his! I just took off a button added 2 lights and changed the name. I wish Maddog was here- as far as I know he is the real creator of the Magnum- but it was a 6 volt unit. Maddog- Thank you, where ever you are. I thought of running an ground wire to the end, but no. I like my drilled body with ground solidly attached to the body. Whenn I start to attach the end cap- you can tell by watching the green LED that the connection is solid. Eventually I will put an LED at the endcap end. I will need the room to run some wires down there.

11-05-2009, 08:10 PM	#10
CCutty Full Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: I live on the outerloop of the beltway in Baltimore, Maryland Posts: 24	I love the part when your singing the hook to "Big Time". I'm on my way I'm making it, huh!! I'd like to try this out when I get a chance

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