Possible Solution to 901 fitting to avoid battery destruction

[secondson2929]

+1 for that, I keep looking for it over there then remember it is in tips and tricks.

[howdoesthatworkthen]

Can I just add, that for any of us based in the UK who don't have access to a RadioShack, you could try Maplin product code JK09K.
I've done the same as nicowolf and just removed the unused contacts. Fits perfectly inside an original 901 battery casing. Now all I need to do is find something clever to do with all the casings I've got from destroying batteries before coming across this connector !

[Sun Vaporer]

Bump to Find to Move

[Sun Vaporer]

Moved To here as requested--Sun!!

[nicowolf]

Thanks, Sun. That will help a lot.

[Sun Vaporer]

Thanks, Sun. That will help a lot.

Nicowolf--You are right--got to get organinzed around here. I had to bump this thread just so I could find it to move it--LOL---talk about the need for those catagories!!! Sun

[nicowolf]

Nicowolf--You are right--got to get organinzed around here. I had to bump this thread just so I could find it to move it--LOL---talk about the need for those catagories!!! Sun

This was one of the ones still left over in the Tips and Tricks section from ages ago, so don't feel bad, it wasn't exactly your domain.

[Rubberjohnny]

Further info regarding chasis DC power sockets such as the UK Maplins JK10L that is perfect for a 901 atm.

We know the centre pin is the positive and has a solder tab at the rear of the socket.We allso know the other two solder tabs at the rear of the socket are not connected to the body of the socket (essensial as the body acts as the negative earth when the atomiser is screwed on).These two "spare"tabs act as a switch for the normal power plug the socket is designed for,the contact being a thin metal "tongue" that can be seen from the front of the socket.Now I have been soldering one of these tabs to the rear of the metal body to ground it and cutting off the third contact as not needed.
However my latest box mod utilises re chareable NiMh batts and I had rigged a second DC power socket into the body of the mod to allow re charge without removing the batts.
Only after I had finished did I have the Einstein "lightbulb" moment and realise just one of these sockets could act as both atomiser connection and re charge port.
Centre pin remains positive
Unswitched negative pin (connected to "tongue") to negative line in mod
Swithed negative metal finger pulled to exterior of socket,shortened then soldered to external body of switch to earth the screw body.Pin wired to negative line in mod.

One socket now acts as both atomiser connector and re-charge port.

Battery pack 7 1000 AAA NiMh 4 in series, 3 in series and both packs wired into mod in paralel gives 4 volts at atomiser.Re-charge uses 6volt 200 Mah cell phone charger.Use mod all day, plug in overnight.So far so good for 10 days!!

[kinabaloo]

The best ideas are the simplest - proved again !

Excellent tip, very well described. Thanks for sharing

[THICKFOG]

,(break off the normally closed switch contact, the one that connects to the bottom of the post on the inside(not needed) and solder the metal strip that runs up the side to the base of the cap (portions with threads). This will be the ground or negative side. The center pin connector will be the positve side.