This step is most important...too much cotton will choke the coil, and you will get dry hits...when you pull the cotton through, if you see it start to bunch up, pull a tiny bit away so there's not too much inside the coil. Cotton expands A LOT with juice, whereas silica does not.
Once your happy with the amount of cotton, trim it flush with the metal flange
Updated 02-25-2014 at 06:20 AM by Akdare
Insert the center pin. Trap the wire between the center pin and the insulator. This is your positive, or hot, wire.
Clip off the wires, and remove the mandrel.
The wick. A small piece of cotton from a cotton ball.
Updated 02-25-2014 at 06:21 AM by Akdare
This is the rubber insulator. See the thin ridge on the left side? Cut it off.
I use a pair of sharp scissors, but you could also use a razor blade.
Thread both tails of your coil through the head, and rest the mandrel in the recesses on the sides.
This is the first secret to not burning your insulators...Ready wires. These heads were built at the factory using NR-R-NR wire. You can use just Kanthal, but trust me this is much easier, and the coil will last for at least a month (you will have to rewick more often than that, with a dry burn before you put in a new wick). The wires are $10 for 50 wires from Stormy's Vapor Cellar, so for 20 cents you have a new coil. And you
Updated 02-25-2014 at 06:22 AM by Akdare
Protank/EVOD head rebuild...I think I can only post 5 pics on one post, so this will be a few posts long. I should preface this by saying that my Protank is currently out of town with my other half, so no way to show it to you fired up...
Remove the small, clearish washer
Remove the metal post...the easiest way is to mount this on the Protank
Updated 02-25-2014 at 06:23 AM by Akdare