And thats the other half of the story

Arvidx;2881633 said:

Ah perfect I was wanting to reply back to your YouTube video, but a 500 character limit just won’t due. So here it goes. Thank you very much for illustrating these sorts of tests to help give people an idea of how variable different setups can be.

As others have commented though, voltage is a very incomplete story of how your ecig is going to vape. The lower the resistance is on an atomizer the harder it is going to hit those volts (lower total volts) but more amps are going to be used so more total power (watts) is consumed hence hotter/more vapor.

What you will find is with your LR Atomizers you will end up with a much higher Amp rating which more than makes up for the possible drop in voltage. This is true in the reverse as well. A HV or High Resistance Atomizer will give you a much lower Amp rating and total wattage and therefore a cooler vape when compared to SR or LR attys on the same device even if the voltage is close to the same, which is why they produce a more acceptable hit at voltages too high for other atomizers.

Some of this also may come down to the discharge capacity of the battery. One of the reasons your 18/16350 battery may have given you such a low voltage on the other video is as a high drain battery but a very small capacity, it is capable of putting out higher amounts of Amperage than most but they take a hit in voltage to make up for it.

Overall you will find much more logical readings if you look for the total watts used on the setup when compared to the amount of vapor produced rather than the voltage used compared with the amount of vapor produced. Watts really do tell the story more accurately as that is an actual measurement of the amount of electricity used, whereas voltage is only a measurement of the frequency or speed at which the electricity is delivered.

Not to be too sidetracked here, but this is actually why I had to get a Darwin when they came out. The Darwin lets you set the Wattage used instead of voltage, what this means is when I strap on my LR 306 at 1.5 ohms and run it at say 8 watts, then switch to a SR 510 at 3 ohms and run it at 8 watts, I get a very similar hit, but the Darwin feeds them very different voltages to get there. In contrast, If I set something like a Tekk mod or a ProVari to a good setting for that same SR atty, then switched back to the LR, I just might blow that LR atty or at least it will scorch any juice I have in it. It actually takes only about 3.5 volts to bring a 1.5 ohm atty to 8 watts so this is right around where most standard batteries will vape for a very LR atty. On the other hand, it takes nearly 4.9v to bring the 3 ohm atty to the same 8 watts. That is why the 1.5 ohm attys feel close to 5 volt vaping, because they really are very close. As a note, this means a 2 ohm atty on a 3.6-7v battery puts out around 6.5 watts which is the approximate equivalent of vaping a SR 3 ohm atty at a little under 4.5 volts.

The same idea of consistency holds true as you are using an atty on the Darwin. When heavily vaping, the hotter it gets, as with all electronics equipment, the more resistance builds up and the weaker the vape gets on all other mods, because it requires more voltage to keep up the total power. Also as the atty ages, the resistance increases slowly but steadily as it wears out. The Darwin actually pushes more voltage live as you are using the atty to maintain that same performance without any manual adjustment. This means that each vape stays nearly the same not only during that vaping session as the atty heats and cools, changing resistance slightly, but also as the atty ages and becomes more and more resistant. The Darwin will continue to push more and more power as needed during that atty’s life so that the first vape with it at 8 watts produces the same vape as when the atty is old and wearing out since the Darwin pushes whatever power the atty needs to heat the same amount.

Ok now that I sound like a total fanboy (maybe I am) I am going to stop talking about a specific mod. It really does not matter what I think of the Darwin itself, really this all comes down to what stats equate to what vaping experience. Now that the Darwin has gone there, we should see more and more mods that catch on to the idea that it’s the Watts that make for any given Vape experience more than any other given measurable statistic. The only reason Watts has not been the controlling factor from the get go, is that it takes electronics to compute wattage, based on other factors (resistance and voltage mainly), and to set the wattage it takes even more electronics to translate that back to how much voltage to put out. It’s a complexity issue. The benefits of being able to control your device based on wattage though outweighs, in my opinion, the drawbacks of adding complexity to the device. If nothing else what I expect to see in the future is either control over Watts directly in more and more devices, or at least on devices with digital readouts, they will start showing the watts used at any given setting in addition to the normal voltage readout. This will at least allow you to manually set your wattage via voltage adjustment even if the device does not do it automatically.

Ok there’s my much more than 2 cents. Hope this has been helpful to some but if nothing else it gave me a place to put all this together finally here on the forum. Happy Vaping to all and Basilray, thanks for all the great reviews and videos here and on other mediums.



Arvidx

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