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		<title>E-Cigarette Forum - Blogs - BiffRocko</title>
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			<title>E-Cigarette Forum - Blogs - BiffRocko</title>
			<link>http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/</link>
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			<title>Variable Voltage vs. Variable Wattage: Which is better and why?</title>
			<link>http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/2871-variable-voltage-vs-variable-wattage-better-why.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 23 Jun 2012 06:41:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[With the introduction of the Darwin and, more recently, the Kick, Evolv has changed the face of theAPV market by introducing variable wattage APV's....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore"><font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">With the introduction of the Darwin and, more recently, the Kick, Evolv has changed the face of the</span></font>APV<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> market by introducing variable wattage </span></font>APV<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">'s. This has led to much confusion about whether variable voltage or variable wattage is the better technology and why. </span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">A long technical discussion regarding variable voltage versus variable wattage got me thinking about this subject in depth today. I feel it's time to offer an informed opinion on this matter, and explain why I believe variable wattage is the superior technology.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">Some of you may have read my post on high powered vaping. For those who haven't, or for those who aren't quite sure how a </span></font>PV<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> works, give it a read. </span></font><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/127362-so-what-high-voltage-vaping-all-about-everything-youve-wanted-know-plus-bit-electronic-theory.html#post1988870" target="_blank">So what IS high voltage vaping all about? (Everything you've wanted to know plus a bit of electronic theory)</a><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">For the lazy, here's a quick recap of that post and the knowledge we need to take from it to understand why variable wattage is indeed the superior technology.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">Our vaping experience consists of a number of variables including the temperature of the vapor, the flavor of our juice when vaped at a particular temperature, and the amount of vapor produced. The amount of heat at the coil in our attys or cartos is what determines this vaping experience. </span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">In electronic terms, wattage determines the amount of heat produced at the coil of our PVs. We control the wattage produced by our PVs by changing either the resistance or voltage in the electronic circuit. </span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">To explain why variable wattage is better, we also need to consider what's commonly termed as user experience. Everyone is familiar with user experience whether they realize it or not. We're surrounded by it all day long. Our computers, cell phones, TV's, and gaming consoles all provide a user experience. Even something as mundane as a refrigerator provides a user experience. </span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">User experience is quite simply the overall experience you have using some sort of device. Evaluating a device's user experience often boils down to one question. How easy is it for a user to interact with the device and achieve the desired results? Let's take a look at VV versus VW and examine their user experiences. </span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">To make this examination, we'll compare two users. One who uses VV and one who uses VW. Both users prefer the same </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> that is rated by the manufacturer at 3.0 ohms. For purposes of comparison, we'll also assume they use the same liquid and prefer identical vaping experiences.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">Our variable wattage user sets their device to 10.1 watts. Our variable voltage dials their </span></font>PV<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> to 5.5v which produces the same 10.1 watts when using a 3.0 ohm </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">. (The VV device actually produces 10.08 watts, but it's close enough for this comparison.) Before our little experiment begins, we measure the resistance of their attys and find them to be an exact 3.0 ohms each.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">Both of our users happily vape away on these same attys for a week and have identical experiences. The next week, we give them two new attys. They swap the old for the new, and leave their devices set to 5.5v and 10.1 watts respectively.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">Our variable wattage user continues to vape at their desired level of heat, experiencing the same vape with the new </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> as they did with the old. The variable voltage user notices something different about their vape though. It seems hotter and the juice tastes &quot;burnt&quot;. </span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">The VV user wonders what happened? He knows that 5.5v is his preferred setting from being in vaping bliss for the past week. What's changed this time around?</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">Astute readers may have noticed that we forgot to measure the resistance of the new attys. We take measurements of both attys, and find that the VW user's </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> is coming in at 3.1 ohms. When we measure the resistance of our VV user's new </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">, we find it to only be 2.7 ohms. </span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">We do the math and find that the VV user has been vaping at 11.2 watts. A 1.1 watt difference might not seem like much, but it in actuality there is a tangible performance difference. We do some more math and find that to get back to our 10.1 watts, we need to adjust our voltage down to 5.2v. Once this adjustment is made, our VV user is back in vaping heaven getting their preferred amount of heat at the coil.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">In the end, both users were able to achieve the same vaping experience, but the path to get there was much easier for the VW user. They only needed to set the wattage once and forget about it. The VV user needed to measure the resistance of each </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">, do some math, and adjust the voltage to achieve the same experience. </span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">If that doesn't convince you, here's a real world example of why VW provides a better user experience. I've been vaping my Darwin with the same Cisco 306 3.0 ohm </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> for several weeks now. I always vape at 12.7 watts. The Darwin displays the resistance of the </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> or carto on its LCD screen. Today, I happened to look at the resistance on the screen for the first time since I started using this </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">. It's not a 3.0 ohm </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">. It's actually a mislabeled 1.5 ohm </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">However, my vaping experience didn't change. I would never have known it was a mislabeled </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana"> if I didn't look at what it today. If I had a VV device set to 6.1v, which would approximately produce my desired 12.7 watts with a 3.0 ohm </span></font>atty<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">, I would have put out 24.8 watts at the coil and popped that sucker on the first button press.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#333333"><span style="font-family: Verdana">So there you have it, folks. Hope this helps those on the fence to make a decision between VV and VW.</span></font></blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>BiffRocko</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/2871-variable-voltage-vs-variable-wattage-better-why.html</guid>
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			<title>Conquering Dark Juices</title>
			<link>http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/2140-conquering-dark-juices.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 09 Dec 2011 05:59:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I fell in love with a dark juice that became my first daily vape. Vaping any other flavor after I first tried it was just not satisfying, but this...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">I fell in love with a dark juice that became my first daily vape. Vaping any other flavor after I first tried it was just not satisfying, but this stuff clogged up attys like nobody's business. I loved this dark, cloudy atty killer too much though. I'd finally found a flavor that I could vape for more than a few hours straight and I wasn't letting it go. I was determined to figure out how to make it work. After trial and error, the solution turned out to be pretty simple, though the process of getting there wasn't.<br />
<br />
When I began vaping this dark liquid, I was using a Chuck with 3.7v lithium ion batteries and Eastmall 510 LR 1.5ohm atomizers. Brand new attys were clogging up in anywhere from a few hours to a few days. Nightly alcohol soaks helped, but I was still going through, at least, one atomizer every week. <br />
<br />
I briefly tried Eastmall 510 2.5 ohm attys on a 5v device I had, but a careless mishap led to me frying the circuitry in the mod and I was back to 3.7v. The 5v plus 2.5 ohm setup had potential though. I was onto something, and I thought it might have something to do with heat.<br />
<br />
I'd heard around the forums that Cisco 306 LR 1.5's burned hotter than other attys, so I decided to give them a try to see if they might be the solution to my clogging problems. They weren't quite the solution, but they resisted clogging better than anything I'd tried. I'd also heard around the forums that debridging and dewicking attys would help them run even hotter. This also helped the clogging problem, but it didn't quite get me all the way there. Debridged Cisco 306 LR 1.5s were lasting about a week.<br />
<br />
The key to completely conquering the clogging problem was solved by an observation I'd made that batteries fresh off the charger seemed to be slightly de-clogging my attys. I thought perhaps the extra heat at the beginning of the battery's charge, when it comes off the charger at 4.2v and drops down to 3.7, might have been burning a slight amount of particulates from the coil. I considered the possibility that I was getting a sort of dry burn effect, and maybe keeping the heat at the coil higher throughout the battery's charge would be the final piece to the puzzle.<br />
<br />
IMR batteries, which would provide more consistent current throughout the charge than lithium ions and don't suffer from voltage sag with 1.5 ohm attys, seemed like a possible solution. I gave them a try next, and they were the last piece. I'd finally conquered the clogging problem. I was getting two to three weeks of use from my attys before noticing significant performance degradation, sometimes even a month. The key to preventing a dark juice from clogging atomizers turned out to be getting enough heat to burn off some of the particulates stuck to the coil throughout the battery's entire charge. <br />
<br />
Understanding this, I started experimenting with different vaping techniques. One thing I found that helps is to occasionally let the atty go a bit drier than you normally would. I'm not talking cherry red coil hot dry, but not necessarily too far off from it either. I like to call this a micro-dry burn. Using a bottom feeder also helped. I found I could run attys just to the edge of too dry and give a quick squonk mid-vape to quickly cool the coil before it was too late.<br />
<br />
A downside to this is that because the particulates are being burned off a bit of ash will start to collect on the coil. This can affect flavor over time, but is easy enough to work around. Alcohol soaks help get to rid of the build up as well as lightly scraping your fingernail across the coil. I've often wondered whether a small wire brush might not help as well, but I've not found the need to test it out myself as alcohol soaks are generally enough to satisfy me.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>BiffRocko</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/2140-conquering-dark-juices.html</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[[Tutorial] Make a 2xAA (Box Mod) battery box fit any 14500. Simple, free mod.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/1741-tutorial-make-2xaa-box-mod-battery-box-fit-any-14500-simple-free-mod.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 03 Jul 2011 02:02:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The 2xAA battery box is an awesome unit for making mods, but it suffers one problem. Sized to fit a standard AA, it doesn't always fit the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">The 2xAA battery box is an awesome unit for making mods, but it suffers one problem. Sized to fit a standard AA, it doesn't always fit the inconsistently sized 14500's available today. The red and black Trustfires are the go to 14500 that seems to fit every one of the 2xAA boxes out there, but some of us want to use IMRs or have other LiIon 14500's on hand.<br />
<br />
Here's a simple, free mod to make the ubiquitous 2xAA battery box able to accept any 14500 battery. All you need to make this mod is the bridge from an old atomizer and some epoxy. <br />
<br />
Click any image to see it full sized.<br />
<br />
<br />
1. Remove the bridge from an old atomizer. The bridge pictured below came from a 306 atty.<br />
<br />
2. Using a pair of needle nosed pliers, straighten one leg of the bridge. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://imgur.com/VeY87.jpg" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/VeY87l.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
3. Gently remove the piece of plastic covering the master On/Off switch.<br />
<br />
4. Lay the bridge across the positive battery terminal. The straightened leg goes over the switch. The leg with the bend extends the positive battery terminal.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://imgur.com/MwJYy.jpg" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/MwJYyl.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
5. Replace the plastic cover over the switch.<br />
<br />
6. Epoxy the bridge in place. Make sure the bend in the leg of the bridge is centered on the battery terminal.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://imgur.com/3Ofqb.jpg" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/3Ofqbl.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
That's it! The bridge now extends the positive terminal far enough out that it will make contact with any 14500 battery including the short red AW IMR's.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>BiffRocko</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/1741-tutorial-make-2xaa-box-mod-battery-box-fit-any-14500-simple-free-mod.html</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[So what IS high voltage vaping all about? (Everything you've wanted to know plus a bit of electronic theory)]]></title>
			<link>http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/970-so-what-high-voltage-vaping-all-about-everything-youve-wanted-know-plus-bit-electronic-theory.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:21:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Repost to the ol' blog... 
 
 
---Quote (Originally by BiffRocko)--- 
You’ve heard about it. You’ve read about it. You wonder why people talk so much...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Repost to the ol' blog...<br />
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					<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>BiffRocko</strong>
					<a href="http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/127362-so-what-high-voltage-vaping-all-about-everything-youve-wanted-know-plus-bit-electronic-theory.html#post1988870" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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				<div class="message">You’ve heard about it. You’ve read about it. You wonder why people talk so much about high voltage vaping, low resistance atomizers, and other seemingly nonsensical terms. Until now it’s all been a confusing mishmash of new terminology and you don’t really know what all the fuss is about. In this post, I am going to clear up the confusion about high voltage vaping. <br />
<br />
Before we get started talking about high voltage vaping though, let’s get one thing out of the way. High voltage vaping is a giant misnomer. We should be calling it high powered vaping. A bit of electronics theory, which we’ll get to in a moment, helps explain why this is the case. For now though, the important thing to know about vaping at higher power are the tangible performance differences. <br />
<br />
High powered vaping provides several differences over low powered vaping. Chiefly, higher power produces a hotter vapor and requires less draw to produce an equivalent volume of vapor. It’s similar to the difference between sucking soda through a thin, narrow straw and a fat, wide one. The other major difference is in taste. Some juices have a stronger flavor at a higher power, while others have a stronger flavor at lower power.<br />
<br />
A fundamental of electronics, called Watt’s law, is essential in understanding what high power vaping is all about. The best way to explain Watt’s law is by using an analogy.<br />
<br />
<br />
Let’s imagine a boxer with big strong arms that is capable of packing a powerful punch. Now let’s imagine that boxer punching a heavy bag in the gym. The only thing slowing down the potential power the boxer can deliver is the resistance of the air in the gym. Air being relatively thin means he’s going to hit that bag with a lot of power. <br />
<br />
Now let’s imagine the same boxer hitting the same heavy bag, but this time he’s under water. The water offers much more resistance than air does, so even though the boxer’s strength is the same, his punches is going to be much less powerful.<br />
<br />
Electronics work in a similar manner. Voltage is potential, similar to the boxer’s strength, and resistance works the same as it does in the analogy. The more resistance there is, the less electrical power that’s delivered given the same voltage.<br />
<br />
<br />
As usual when dealing with scientific topics, there is a mathematical formula which defines this behavior. This formula is Watt’s law.<br />
<br />
Power = (Voltage * Voltage) / Resistance<br />
<br />
Knowing this formula is vital to understanding what high power vaping is all about, and helps us gain a better understanding of how the different combinations of vaping equipment perform relative to each other. This is where the term high power vaping comes from. Let’s look at some concrete examples to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
<br />
Most standard 510 atomizers have a resistance of 2.5 ohms. Mass produced PV’s such as the 510 and the eGo run around 3.2v. Using Watt’s law, we can calculate the power output for this configuration.<br />
<br />
(3.2 * 3.2) / 2.5 = 4.096 watts<br />
<br />
If we use a standard 510 atomizer, but instead step up to a 3.7v device our power output increases.<br />
<br />
(3.7 * 3.7) / 2.5 =  5.476 watts<br />
<br />
<br />
Let’s see what happens when we step up to a 5v device with the same standard 510 atty. <br />
<br />
(5.0 * 5.0) / 2.5 = 10 watts<br />
<br />
Now that’s a huge difference. 5v is considered by many to be a vaping “sweet spot.” Having seen these examples, you might think that 5v, with all that power, is the bee’s knees. But hold on a second! What happens when we change the resistance of the atomizer?<br />
<br />
<br />
Most low resistance 510 atomizers are rated at 1.5 ohms. Let’s see what happens when we use a low resistance 510 atty on a 3.7v PV.<br />
<br />
(3.7 * 3.7) / 1.5 = 9.127 watts<br />
<br />
Holy high power, Batman! Our 3.7v device with an LR atty is now putting out almost the same amount of power as a 5v device. This is why you’ll see people saying that a 3.7v device with an LR atty simulates 5v vaping. It’s not a simulation at all. It’s just putting out slightly less power than a 5v device with a standard atty. It’s still high power vaping.<br />
<br />
<br />
You might be asking if high voltage vaping is an incorrect term though. It’s clear that 5v with a standard atty is putting out more power than 3.7v with a LR atty. Let’s look at one more example to see why high voltage vaping is indeed a misnomer.<br />
<br />
Some vendors these days are selling what they term high voltage atomizers. These atomizers typically have a resistance of 3.5 ohms. Let’s see what happens if we put a 3.5 ohm atty on a 5v device.<br />
<br />
(5.0 * 5.0) / 3.5 = 7.14 watts<br />
<br />
Whoops! Now our 5v device is putting out less power than a 3.7v device with an LR atty. The voltage is higher, for sure, but as we’ve learned here, voltage is only part of the equation - resistance being the other. Power output is what’s really determining the performance of the PV.<br />
<br />
<br />
And that’s about it. Equipped with this knowledge, you should be much more prepared to make a decision about which configuration of PV and atomizer - or cartomizer, they have resistance too - works best for you.</div>
			
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			<dc:creator>BiffRocko</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/970-so-what-high-voltage-vaping-all-about-everything-youve-wanted-know-plus-bit-electronic-theory.html</guid>
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			<title>How long will my battery last?</title>
			<link>http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/969-how-long-will-my-battery-last.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 20:31:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I posted this reply to someone asking about battery life. Copying to the blog for easier reference in the future. 
 
 
---Quote (Originally by...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">I posted this reply to someone asking about battery life. Copying to the blog for easier reference in the future.<br />
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					<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>BiffRocko</strong>
					<a href="http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/requests-opinions-reviews/126515-help-real-battery-life-ego-riva-510-riva-901-how-long-full-charge-lasting-you-post1973199.html#post1973199" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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				<div class="message">To figure out how long a battery will last, first calculate the current with Ohm's law.<br />
<br />
I - Current<br />
V -Voltage<br />
R - Resistance<br />
<br />
I = V/R <br />
<br />
(eg. 3.1v / 2.5 ohms = 1.24 amps)<br />
<br />
Then figure out how many hours it would last under constant load.<br />
<br />
Hours = (mAh rating / 1000) / I  <br />
<br />
(eg. (650mAh / 1000) / 1.24 amps = .52 hours)<br />
<br />
Keep in mind that this is the time it would last with the button pressed continuously. Since you only press the button for a few seconds at a time, it will last for several &quot;real time&quot; hours.</div>
			
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			<dc:creator>BiffRocko</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/biffrocko/969-how-long-will-my-battery-last.html</guid>
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