Here's the Coiler Pics:
That last picture (lower right) is where this all started. It's come a ways. Has a ways to go. We shall see where this leads.
Some Combo shots of the coil at the Mandrel/Chuck. Notice the leg catcher with the spring. This feature makes it very quick to wrap the coil. The alternative is usually to get the wire into the chuck jaws and tighten. I have found this difficult and time-consuming. I want my coils right now, right?
Upper Left: Wide shot of the mandrel at the post and chuck connections.
Upper Right: Shot of the spring-loaded leg catcher on the 1/16" drill stop collar.
Lower Left: Close up of the coil while winding. The first two, or three, coils are generally removed.
Lower Right: The Coil just cut from the Spooler. Causes the loss of a half wrap.
Here's the reason the coiler is so important to our wraps. Even though the coils in the first picture below are "touching," you can see that the pitch is different on the first four or five coils, than on the last four or five coils. For this reason, the coil has to be overwrapped, and then the first two, plus an additional four or five coils are removed with the pliers at 90 degrees to the coil and literally pulled off the coil, leaving the very tight coil like you see in the last picture below.
Upper Left: Close up of coil after removal from both the leg-catcher and the spooler.
Upper Right: Another close-up of a different coil.
Lower Left: Notice the pitch change at the far right.
Lower Right: Close-up of the pitch change. Concerning...
Notice that the pitch of the coil changes as we remove the coils (Lower Right in picture above), presumably for the purpose of improving the wrap. So, I decided to try to improve the tension from the side and added another spring-loaded drill stop:
Upper Left: Tension added from the side at the wrap.
Upper Right: Coils are not only touching, but being literally squeezed together at the wrap.
Lower Left: Remove Spooler tension and remove coils while still under side tension.
Lower Right: Finished coil.
Ok, that turned out to be a pretty good ten coil wrap. Tensioned through drag from the reel spooler and from the side with a spring loaded drill stop, then unwrapped while under side tension. Needless to say, this coil does not need to be additionally "formed" through the use of a torch.
However, as we examine the photos at super close-up, we do see a lot of imperfections on the surface of the wire. These imperfections will be very detrimental to our metallic oxide layer formation when we pulse the coil. Ideally, by pulsing the coil, we can add up to three layers of alumina (the metallic oxide that forms on kanthal after heating). This alumina layer is critical for us to achieve what SuperX calls the "Effect." The effect will be discussed in another blog (someday). For now, our work with this coiler is almost done. I would like to add an adjustable guide pulley from the spooler to the mandreal. Right now I do that function by hand, but it doesn't need to be that way. I would like to automate as much of the process as possible, so that when I do find my perfect coil, I can repeat it.
Thank you State O'Flux for naming the coiler. Ok, the BMV Coiler 2.0 Parts List:
ParaWire Cobra Coiler: Cobra Coiler | ParaWire
1/16" Stainless Steel Mandrel: Aura Visual Concepts, Inc.. 1/16" diameter Mandrels
Fuller 1/16" Drill Stop Collar: 1/16 DRILL STOP - Amazon.com
Misc. 8/32 x 1/2" Machine screw, spring, L metal and washer
Crystal River Cahill Fly Reel: Amazon.com: Crystal River Cahill Cahill Rim Fly Reel: Sports & Outdoors
Mounts for Fly Reel:http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shimano-RS...Black/24775805
So, materials cost is about $75.00, plus shipping. Additional reels for different wire gauges are extra. I have two for 28 and 29 gauge. Also, a piece of scrap wood or whatever to mount the jig. Anyway, that's the story. Good luck!
That last picture (lower right) is where this all started. It's come a ways. Has a ways to go. We shall see where this leads.
Some Combo shots of the coil at the Mandrel/Chuck. Notice the leg catcher with the spring. This feature makes it very quick to wrap the coil. The alternative is usually to get the wire into the chuck jaws and tighten. I have found this difficult and time-consuming. I want my coils right now, right?
Upper Left: Wide shot of the mandrel at the post and chuck connections.
Upper Right: Shot of the spring-loaded leg catcher on the 1/16" drill stop collar.
Lower Left: Close up of the coil while winding. The first two, or three, coils are generally removed.
Lower Right: The Coil just cut from the Spooler. Causes the loss of a half wrap.
Here's the reason the coiler is so important to our wraps. Even though the coils in the first picture below are "touching," you can see that the pitch is different on the first four or five coils, than on the last four or five coils. For this reason, the coil has to be overwrapped, and then the first two, plus an additional four or five coils are removed with the pliers at 90 degrees to the coil and literally pulled off the coil, leaving the very tight coil like you see in the last picture below.
Upper Left: Close up of coil after removal from both the leg-catcher and the spooler.
Upper Right: Another close-up of a different coil.
Lower Left: Notice the pitch change at the far right.
Lower Right: Close-up of the pitch change. Concerning...
Notice that the pitch of the coil changes as we remove the coils (Lower Right in picture above), presumably for the purpose of improving the wrap. So, I decided to try to improve the tension from the side and added another spring-loaded drill stop:
Upper Left: Tension added from the side at the wrap.
Upper Right: Coils are not only touching, but being literally squeezed together at the wrap.
Lower Left: Remove Spooler tension and remove coils while still under side tension.
Lower Right: Finished coil.
Ok, that turned out to be a pretty good ten coil wrap. Tensioned through drag from the reel spooler and from the side with a spring loaded drill stop, then unwrapped while under side tension. Needless to say, this coil does not need to be additionally "formed" through the use of a torch.
However, as we examine the photos at super close-up, we do see a lot of imperfections on the surface of the wire. These imperfections will be very detrimental to our metallic oxide layer formation when we pulse the coil. Ideally, by pulsing the coil, we can add up to three layers of alumina (the metallic oxide that forms on kanthal after heating). This alumina layer is critical for us to achieve what SuperX calls the "Effect." The effect will be discussed in another blog (someday). For now, our work with this coiler is almost done. I would like to add an adjustable guide pulley from the spooler to the mandreal. Right now I do that function by hand, but it doesn't need to be that way. I would like to automate as much of the process as possible, so that when I do find my perfect coil, I can repeat it.
Thank you State O'Flux for naming the coiler. Ok, the BMV Coiler 2.0 Parts List:
ParaWire Cobra Coiler: Cobra Coiler | ParaWire
1/16" Stainless Steel Mandrel: Aura Visual Concepts, Inc.. 1/16" diameter Mandrels
Fuller 1/16" Drill Stop Collar: 1/16 DRILL STOP - Amazon.com
Misc. 8/32 x 1/2" Machine screw, spring, L metal and washer
Crystal River Cahill Fly Reel: Amazon.com: Crystal River Cahill Cahill Rim Fly Reel: Sports & Outdoors
Mounts for Fly Reel:http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shimano-RS...Black/24775805
So, materials cost is about $75.00, plus shipping. Additional reels for different wire gauges are extra. I have two for 28 and 29 gauge. Also, a piece of scrap wood or whatever to mount the jig. Anyway, that's the story. Good luck!
