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Aerotank / PT3 Rebuild - Dual to Single Part 1

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by , 05-06-2014 at 12:02 AM (2295 Views)
This is a brief tutorial on how to rebuild a Kanger Dual Coil into a single microcoil.

I have had great success rebuilding this way and I urge anyone reading this to seek out more tutorials, take bits and pieces from each and do what feels right to you. That is how I arrived at this method.

The Pros: Vapor amount is about the same as a stock coil but the flavor is easily twice as good, coil lasts longer, customizable and personally after rebuilding this way for 3 months I have yet to get a flood, leak, gurgle or dry hit.

The Cons: Wicking the coil with cotton prior to installing prevents dry firing (I've never had any issues though).

Warning: Rebuilding Kanger coils is relatively easy but you must test for shorts and check the resistance prior to installing in a clearomizer. Always ensure the coil gives a good resistance reading and you are vaping at appropriate Ohms for the battery.

And away we go...

These are the tools I use to rebuild...

Stanley Micro Screwdrivers from Wal-mart
Multi-meter from Home Depot
Bernzomatic Micro Torch from Home Depot
Ohm Meter
Nail Clippers
Steel Tweezers
30 Gauge Kanthal (What I prefer to use)
Sterile Cotton Ball

A stock Kanger dual coil looks like this when broken down...
Left to right: Pin, Grommet, Head (or base), Stock Silica Coils, Chimney

I have found that a 2 mm microcoil holds enough cotton to fill the large gaps in a Dual Kanger head. 2 mm is about a 5/64 drill bit.

I start by using "Vaper's Toolbox" Android app (free on Google Play) to determine how many wraps I am going to need to get the Ohms I want. (I like 1.5 to 1.7 ohms = 6 wraps)

I make a 6 wrap microcoil...

Gently compress the coil with steel tweezers and torch until the coil glows orange for a few seconds...
I do this to burn off any residue and to tighten up the coil. You can use a regular lighter, candle, gas stove, etc... but a microtorch works best ($15 at Home Depot)

Pinch off some cotton, roll a tight wick between your fingers and thread the coil...
The cotton should fill the inside of the coil without being tight. If the cotton fills the coil but can be pulled back and forth with little resistance then it's good.

Darn 5 file upload limit!

Continued in Part 2!
CJHacker, Buster282 and intruder66 like this.

Updated 05-06-2014 at 01:16 AM by Btsmokincat



  1. Btsmokincat's Avatar
    It occurs to me that I never explained the real reason why I wick the coil with cotton prior to installing in the head.

    A 2mm coil is large enough to hold an amount of cotton that nicely fills the channels but a 2 mm micro screwdriver (5/64 drill bit) does not fit down in the channel to hold the coil in place while installing the grommet and pin. So I wick and use the cotton to hold the coil in place.

    One could make the coil then hold it in place with a smaller bit or tool, however when I've tried this the hard tool would deform the coil and not hold it in place as well when trying to install the pin.
  2. vsat88's Avatar
    "but a microtorch works best ($15 at Home Depot)"
    No doubt, and you can solder with it as well !
  3. RIMP's Avatar
    Thanks sp much for doing this