Informational:
This is how they fixed it:.
http://ukvapers.org/Thread-VAMO-9-99-or-0-00-reading-all-or-most-of-the-time-Here-s-the-solution
http://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/15705-Fixing-my-VAMO-and-SID-with-nothing-more-than-a-carto-and-a-swiss-army-knife!
This is how I fixed it:
Problem: I got an octopus dripper. it worked good for about a week, then, nomatter what build i put on it my mod would indicate bad connection with either 9.9ohms or low load reading. I blamed the cheap POS dripper.. I banged on the positive connection screw under the 'hood' of the dripper. that seemed to work until i took it off my device again. I removed the center post from the dripper and checked the grommets - "Did liquid get cought in there? that top rubber grommet looks pinched.. is the post touching the deck?".. grommet was off, but that still didn't fix my problem for the long term.
Eventaully I must have banged on the top post enough (while on my mod) to screw up my mod. "Great" i thought, Now i need to buy a new mod...
I searched everything I could think to try to find where someone rebuilt the SiD head or fixed the pin, no luck. I did eventually find the guys posts above, but only after buying a new mod
No need to cancel.. i wanted a backup anyway...
First Steps and assumptions: I pulled up the center pin and tried reusing the POS grommet they had in place, but it just didn't do the job. I figured I screwed up a spring that is inside of the device until I saw the forum above, and realized there was no spring, but still, the wire could be shorting out. I tried re using the grommet it came with, not quite sure how it worked.. so now it was really temper mental.. shorting out all over the place.. inconstantly reading higher ohms on the head... low load... all that fun stuff.
Now for the instructional:
What I used:
Needle noise tweezers
scisors
old protank head insolator
micro screwdriver extension (something stiff to push the positive post back into place - a pencil works)
Most of my images wouldn't upload, so here is the link for them:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/7now97ncwat9380/d-pS4NP6_A
0) Take the battery out of your mod... Probably not necessary, but safety first.
1)Pull the post up. There is no spring. it relies on the tension of the wire and rubber grommet to adjust for different male 510 positive posts.
View attachment 306014
2)Cut Protank Insolator - not in half, just one side so it is open - tuning an O into a C. also - i cut the thinner side off (before needing the insolator for this, so no pic pre-slice) - when you look at the insolator - there is a thicker part the the pin of the protank head fits into for its positive connection. the thinner part gets fed inside of the cup to insulate the positive pin and wire from the negitive wire and the outside of the cup. the side of the insulator that goes inside of the protank and catches a ridge on the inside of the cup to stay securely in place. I lopped that side off, just below where it flared out. This will make it easier to feed into your SiD (or vamo, or whatever).
View attachment 306017
3)grab next to the opening of the grommet and twist it around the positive post. The post is tapered, so the thickets part of the grommet will end up around the positive pin, but just under the main taper that creates the top of the positive pin. The bottom of the grommet should be below the bottom of the pin to cover the uninsulated wire, where it is connected to the positive pin. I'm not proficient at soldering enough to attempt it here, and I have no heat shrink insulation, nor do i feel compelled to buy any.
The easiest way to get this on, that I found, is to get the grommet in place, then push the pin onto it.
There will be a slight gap where the protank rubber doesn't cover the side, but it should not be a large enough gap to effect anything. EDIT: This gap could allow liquid to enter the body of the device if anything leaks down your 510 connection - I threw the original grommet back around the positive pin, then slid it down around the top of the protank control. I'm still uneasy about this getting liquid down in their, but I'll reply to this post if anything gets jacked up. I think between the top of the pin and the original grommet the space is tight enough that the viscosity of the eliquid is not likely to drip down in there, but that is just an assumption, I dont really want to try it out
4) once the grommet is in place, push the pin down onto it.. you may have to wiggle it a little to get it under that first lip in the protank rubber, but it should go down. You shouldn't loose the insulator into the device... i didn't have any problems with this, but i could see how that may happen. make sure you have it opened up and ready to receive the bottom end of the positive pin. I had to push down firmly, then it "popped" into place. no problem.
Now.. after all of that.. event the octopus dipper is working like a champ!
This is how they fixed it:.
http://ukvapers.org/Thread-VAMO-9-99-or-0-00-reading-all-or-most-of-the-time-Here-s-the-solution
http://www.planetofthevapes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/15705-Fixing-my-VAMO-and-SID-with-nothing-more-than-a-carto-and-a-swiss-army-knife!
This is how I fixed it:
Problem: I got an octopus dripper. it worked good for about a week, then, nomatter what build i put on it my mod would indicate bad connection with either 9.9ohms or low load reading. I blamed the cheap POS dripper.. I banged on the positive connection screw under the 'hood' of the dripper. that seemed to work until i took it off my device again. I removed the center post from the dripper and checked the grommets - "Did liquid get cought in there? that top rubber grommet looks pinched.. is the post touching the deck?".. grommet was off, but that still didn't fix my problem for the long term.
Eventaully I must have banged on the top post enough (while on my mod) to screw up my mod. "Great" i thought, Now i need to buy a new mod...
I searched everything I could think to try to find where someone rebuilt the SiD head or fixed the pin, no luck. I did eventually find the guys posts above, but only after buying a new mod
No need to cancel.. i wanted a backup anyway...First Steps and assumptions: I pulled up the center pin and tried reusing the POS grommet they had in place, but it just didn't do the job. I figured I screwed up a spring that is inside of the device until I saw the forum above, and realized there was no spring, but still, the wire could be shorting out. I tried re using the grommet it came with, not quite sure how it worked.. so now it was really temper mental.. shorting out all over the place.. inconstantly reading higher ohms on the head... low load... all that fun stuff.
Now for the instructional:
What I used:
Needle noise tweezers
scisors
old protank head insolator
micro screwdriver extension (something stiff to push the positive post back into place - a pencil works)
Most of my images wouldn't upload, so here is the link for them:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/7now97ncwat9380/d-pS4NP6_A
0) Take the battery out of your mod... Probably not necessary, but safety first.
1)Pull the post up. There is no spring. it relies on the tension of the wire and rubber grommet to adjust for different male 510 positive posts.
View attachment 306014
2)Cut Protank Insolator - not in half, just one side so it is open - tuning an O into a C. also - i cut the thinner side off (before needing the insolator for this, so no pic pre-slice) - when you look at the insolator - there is a thicker part the the pin of the protank head fits into for its positive connection. the thinner part gets fed inside of the cup to insulate the positive pin and wire from the negitive wire and the outside of the cup. the side of the insulator that goes inside of the protank and catches a ridge on the inside of the cup to stay securely in place. I lopped that side off, just below where it flared out. This will make it easier to feed into your SiD (or vamo, or whatever).
View attachment 306017
3)grab next to the opening of the grommet and twist it around the positive post. The post is tapered, so the thickets part of the grommet will end up around the positive pin, but just under the main taper that creates the top of the positive pin. The bottom of the grommet should be below the bottom of the pin to cover the uninsulated wire, where it is connected to the positive pin. I'm not proficient at soldering enough to attempt it here, and I have no heat shrink insulation, nor do i feel compelled to buy any.
The easiest way to get this on, that I found, is to get the grommet in place, then push the pin onto it.
There will be a slight gap where the protank rubber doesn't cover the side, but it should not be a large enough gap to effect anything. EDIT: This gap could allow liquid to enter the body of the device if anything leaks down your 510 connection - I threw the original grommet back around the positive pin, then slid it down around the top of the protank control. I'm still uneasy about this getting liquid down in their, but I'll reply to this post if anything gets jacked up. I think between the top of the pin and the original grommet the space is tight enough that the viscosity of the eliquid is not likely to drip down in there, but that is just an assumption, I dont really want to try it out
4) once the grommet is in place, push the pin down onto it.. you may have to wiggle it a little to get it under that first lip in the protank rubber, but it should go down. You shouldn't loose the insulator into the device... i didn't have any problems with this, but i could see how that may happen. make sure you have it opened up and ready to receive the bottom end of the positive pin. I had to push down firmly, then it "popped" into place. no problem.
Now.. after all of that.. event the octopus dipper is working like a champ!
