I've found a good way to max the life of coil heads on clearo's with exposed bottom wicks, like Kanger's, is to purge the wick often. At every tank fill or top-off, or whenever draw or flavor seems muted, first check the 510 connection on the batt for seepage from the atomizer. Dry the battery connection as necessary along with the exterior of wick assembly and atomizer base threading using a paper towel. Then blow out the assembled head from the 510 side to clear any juice or condensation from the chimney end into the towel.
Now comes the finger magic part...placing an index finger firmly on the 510 connector bottom (covering the hole in the pin with the paper)...and likewise both ends of the extruding wick with thumb and middle finger...blow out from the chimney side. This purges sediments built up at the wick ends and you may see these pigments deposited on the paper towel, particularly with darker juices.
After completing this step your atomizer will seem to perform like you just installed a new coil assembly (YMMV with dense juices, believe me, this VG lover knows!).
The wick acts as a filter accumulating large particulates from flavoring at the cut frayed tips of the wick. This accumulation begins to affect flow over time. If not cleared it gradually feeds this minute debris further into the wicking media. This diminishes the efficiency of vaporization causing aggregation of gunk on the coil element itself. As this progresses gurgling, leaking, dry hits, etc. ensue. Finally more and more moisture gathers at the 510 connection in the bottom of the head assembly from incomplete vaporization, often with resistance changes, and ultimately…no good vapor. Reinstall such a wick and the process repeats more readily each time.
You simply can't do this on clearo's with replaceable cartridge-type wick assemblies, nor rebuild them really, any more than a carto, so I consider them a non-option in practical terms…unless you have unlimited flow and desire to endlessly forever pay for 'em.
This simple maintenance step can prolong the life of a coil extending the period between installation and the need for washing and/or replacement.
Hope this really helps. It has for me and would have saved a lot of hassle had I known from the beginning.
So keep it dry and blow it out!
Good luck.
Now comes the finger magic part...placing an index finger firmly on the 510 connector bottom (covering the hole in the pin with the paper)...and likewise both ends of the extruding wick with thumb and middle finger...blow out from the chimney side. This purges sediments built up at the wick ends and you may see these pigments deposited on the paper towel, particularly with darker juices.
After completing this step your atomizer will seem to perform like you just installed a new coil assembly (YMMV with dense juices, believe me, this VG lover knows!).
The wick acts as a filter accumulating large particulates from flavoring at the cut frayed tips of the wick. This accumulation begins to affect flow over time. If not cleared it gradually feeds this minute debris further into the wicking media. This diminishes the efficiency of vaporization causing aggregation of gunk on the coil element itself. As this progresses gurgling, leaking, dry hits, etc. ensue. Finally more and more moisture gathers at the 510 connection in the bottom of the head assembly from incomplete vaporization, often with resistance changes, and ultimately…no good vapor. Reinstall such a wick and the process repeats more readily each time.
You simply can't do this on clearo's with replaceable cartridge-type wick assemblies, nor rebuild them really, any more than a carto, so I consider them a non-option in practical terms…unless you have unlimited flow and desire to endlessly forever pay for 'em.
This simple maintenance step can prolong the life of a coil extending the period between installation and the need for washing and/or replacement.
Hope this really helps. It has for me and would have saved a lot of hassle had I known from the beginning.
So keep it dry and blow it out!
Good luck.
