Originally Posted by metalhed73
Seen a lot of questions regarding rebuilding protank/evod/every clone that takes them heads. So i figured I would post up my process and what I have learned so far.
What you will need:
Disassemble the head:
Wrap the coil on the drill bit:
Put Coil in the head:
Insert rubber insulator and
[QUOTE=Vapeaddikt;10646930]I haven't been happy with my coils. They were not bad but there were not as "good" as they could be.
I started thinking over the past few days and just let me mind digest on the idea.
If this method has been illustrated (which it most likely has) I apologize in advance but always like to share ideas related to a hobby.
Before we start this though:
[B]Disclaimer: [I]if you choose to try this this method of doing
[CENTER][B]Disclaimer: This is a full dissection and rebuild tutorial for the RM2 (older not newest model that will come later). If you are not mechanically inclined or have any doubts do not attempt this. This being said, if you choose to proceed ECF nor I assume any responsibility for damaging your RM2 or self in the process.
[B]This being said lets start:
-What I use
micro philips head, micro flathead, channel lock pliers and tweezers(tweezers
Originally Posted by ShariR
Ok. This is how the volts and watts work on the MVP2 (or any current vv/vw device). If you set the watts to say 7 watts, the device automatically figures out the best volts to run at. You do nothing else but vape. You do NOT do anything to set volts.
If you set the volts, you need to know what your ohms are on the topper you are using, so you know what volts to set it to, to not get a burnt hit.
Think of it this way. Watts are red. Volts are blue. Just like two football
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