I've been using cotton wicks for month because they are so easy to setup as theres no shorting against the wick. But, a cotton wick can be fiddly in its own ways and tends to reduce its vapor output significantly as it builds up burnt juice. Stainless wicks are easier to keep clean and produce a more vibrant flavor.
I finally got a stainless wick working well, so heres what I did:
Switched to 30ga NiCr from 34ga. The heating characteristics are totally different, especially against stainless which sucks the heat.
2 x 5cm rectangle of 400 SS mesh.
Folded the mesh in half lengthwise so the cut edges get rolled into the center, leaving the smooth fold edge against the coil, eliminating the fringes of stainless fibers against the coil that cause hot spots and shorts.
11/12 wraps of 30ga (4.5" length wire) around a 6d finishing nail (3/32") gives me 2.5 ohms, great for the Vmax at 3 volts.
I oxidized the coil and mesh with a butane lighter only, cherry red for 10 seconds. Enough to burn off any manufacturing oils. Nothing crazy.
Installed coil to the screw and post using the nail in the well hole to keep it aligned.
Wick was rolled so It slid easily throught the coil with enough friction so it won't slide out.
Drilled the fill hole to 3/32", chamfered and stuck in a 1cm piece of 3/32 o-ring as a stopper. No leaks.
Cut the bottom of the wick at a 45 degree angle. Trimmed the top of the wick 1/8 past the top knurled nut.
At first, align the air hole even with the wick so incoming air directly cools the coil. After break in, align the air hole 15 degrees ahead of the wick so incoming air doesn't directly cool the coil. See below for more details.
For the first time I've been able to get clean/non-harsh/non-metalic volumes of vapor from a stainless wick.
Update: I just chain vaped through a full tank, no problems. Wick got right to the last drop of juice.
Update: 6 tankfulls later, simply amazing.
Notes:
Even with the fill hole plugged, I'm getting excellent wicking. I believe the gap created by the folded edge on the side of the wick is helping bring air into the tank when the fill hole is plugged. Also, the folded wick is creating mesh to mesh contact walls that are required for proper capillary action.
I highly recommend NOT using juice while oxidizing your wick! If the mesh gets clogged you will loose capillary action! Instead, oxidize your coil with juice before inserting the wick to build up some carbon insulation.
When first testing your wick, set the air hole directly in front of the coil for the first 1/8 tank of vaping. The air against the coil will keep it cool, eliminating hotspots and resulting blown coils, as well as building up some insulation. Then, rotate the air hole away 5 degrees from the coil and test. The vapor should become more intense. If its harsh, go back. If its good, go for 10 degrees , then 15 degrees. This is an excellent way to adjust vapor production without adjusting voltage. It also changes the flavor as well. You can do the same by leaving the hole at the coil and drawing lighter or heavier.
If you do get a short while vaping, spin off the cap, spin the wick just to nudge it, set the air hole back to the wick and repeat.
Coil deformation at the top is always an issue. I've had better luck with 30ga NiCr since its stiffer. Its important to roll coils around a 6d nail or 3/32 bit to get uniform loops. I also adjust the coil spacing further apart near the top while I still have it around the nail.
To clean the wick after vaping a few tankfulls of juice, I gently spin out the wick and wipe it off. Then insert my wrapping nail or bit through the bit into the tank well, and use a razor blade between the coil loops to break away any charred buildup. This way I never scratch the inside of the coil loops which would cause new shorts to the wick. Wipe away any particals with a damp paper towel. Remove the bit and reinsert your wick. Done deal, less than a minute and your back to a clean consistent tasting vape.
I finally got a stainless wick working well, so heres what I did:
Switched to 30ga NiCr from 34ga. The heating characteristics are totally different, especially against stainless which sucks the heat.
2 x 5cm rectangle of 400 SS mesh.
Folded the mesh in half lengthwise so the cut edges get rolled into the center, leaving the smooth fold edge against the coil, eliminating the fringes of stainless fibers against the coil that cause hot spots and shorts.
11/12 wraps of 30ga (4.5" length wire) around a 6d finishing nail (3/32") gives me 2.5 ohms, great for the Vmax at 3 volts.
I oxidized the coil and mesh with a butane lighter only, cherry red for 10 seconds. Enough to burn off any manufacturing oils. Nothing crazy.
Installed coil to the screw and post using the nail in the well hole to keep it aligned.
Wick was rolled so It slid easily throught the coil with enough friction so it won't slide out.
Drilled the fill hole to 3/32", chamfered and stuck in a 1cm piece of 3/32 o-ring as a stopper. No leaks.
Cut the bottom of the wick at a 45 degree angle. Trimmed the top of the wick 1/8 past the top knurled nut.
At first, align the air hole even with the wick so incoming air directly cools the coil. After break in, align the air hole 15 degrees ahead of the wick so incoming air doesn't directly cool the coil. See below for more details.
For the first time I've been able to get clean/non-harsh/non-metalic volumes of vapor from a stainless wick.
Update: I just chain vaped through a full tank, no problems. Wick got right to the last drop of juice.
Update: 6 tankfulls later, simply amazing.
Notes:
Even with the fill hole plugged, I'm getting excellent wicking. I believe the gap created by the folded edge on the side of the wick is helping bring air into the tank when the fill hole is plugged. Also, the folded wick is creating mesh to mesh contact walls that are required for proper capillary action.
I highly recommend NOT using juice while oxidizing your wick! If the mesh gets clogged you will loose capillary action! Instead, oxidize your coil with juice before inserting the wick to build up some carbon insulation.
When first testing your wick, set the air hole directly in front of the coil for the first 1/8 tank of vaping. The air against the coil will keep it cool, eliminating hotspots and resulting blown coils, as well as building up some insulation. Then, rotate the air hole away 5 degrees from the coil and test. The vapor should become more intense. If its harsh, go back. If its good, go for 10 degrees , then 15 degrees. This is an excellent way to adjust vapor production without adjusting voltage. It also changes the flavor as well. You can do the same by leaving the hole at the coil and drawing lighter or heavier.
If you do get a short while vaping, spin off the cap, spin the wick just to nudge it, set the air hole back to the wick and repeat.
Coil deformation at the top is always an issue. I've had better luck with 30ga NiCr since its stiffer. Its important to roll coils around a 6d nail or 3/32 bit to get uniform loops. I also adjust the coil spacing further apart near the top while I still have it around the nail.
To clean the wick after vaping a few tankfulls of juice, I gently spin out the wick and wipe it off. Then insert my wrapping nail or bit through the bit into the tank well, and use a razor blade between the coil loops to break away any charred buildup. This way I never scratch the inside of the coil loops which would cause new shorts to the wick. Wipe away any particals with a damp paper towel. Remove the bit and reinsert your wick. Done deal, less than a minute and your back to a clean consistent tasting vape.
