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Originally Posted by sketchness
With mechs it doesn't matter what device you have or what atty (for this discussion), what matters is the battery. This determines what you can build within the confines of your amp limit. The links provided above go over this in detail.
So i am sure I won't answer every question about wire but real simple stuff: Higher gauge equals higher resistance, but it heats faster which is important when you are building coils on a device that doesn't push watts like a mech. So building coils
Originally Posted by vjdossey
Good to know, ill make note of your suggestion :-) any ideas why the leggs are burning the gromet? It happened at 3.4 volts... Coil was 2.1
Originally Posted by beckdg
that's it then. pull them just taut enough to know they're wiggling and bending at the base just under the grommet and wiggle them to "snip" them off.
5 minutes into this video...
i'll suggest the igo-w over the igo-l for your first rebuildable because the
Originally Posted by Trayce
Received the tubing (3 32" I D Silicone Tubing Temperature Rated to 500F | eBay) and so far it works exactly as expected! If a burny rubber grommet flavor is your problem, this should fix it. I took a few pics to share below. INSERT 16hrs LATER: There is an issue with Kanger heads but not Aro heads... see my post #5 below for details. THIS ISSUE RESOLVED ... SEE POST #12
A couple things... the silicone tubing is softer than the stock rubber grommet so takes a little
Originally Posted by FACE MEAT
I never had the desire or need to delve into the world of atomizer head rebuilding until I got my two Protanks. I was so enamored with these glass and metal beauties that my wife began to get a bit jealous. Seeing as how the replacement heads, and anything Protank for that matter, are quite hard to come by at the moment, I started to wonder what would happen when my heads failed. Would I be relegated to the bleek, dismal world of Vivi Nova and Vape Only BCC use? Oh, the humanity.