Has anyone tried the AGA Tiamat PLUS w/Glass Tank

V Ninja;8383689 said:

eHuman;8381528 said:

Bad, I watched a few videos on wick rolling and coil wrapping before I bought my rba. I ended up combining what I felt was the best of them all. I am still using the the very first wick and coil that I made from the materials included with the AGA-T, and haven't yet touched the supplies I bought to go with it. The included SS mesh is not big enough to make a solid wick (and I I want to try that next) so I rolled it around a 1mm rod tightly, and was able to fit it into the 3/32" drill bit wrapped coil I made.

You can find plenty of vids on youtube, but here are the general methods I used:
(Four methods to battle top coil hot spots are "twisted lead", "L kink", "washers on post", and "bend wick to positive post". I will describe twisted lead method).
Coil:
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Mesh:
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I have to keep my tank fill screw off to avoid vapor-lock.
If all done properly You will get plumes of vapor, no metallic taste, but very little flavor.
It takes a tank or two for the wick to break in and flavor to come through like a champ.
If you taste metal, you either have a wicking problem or a hot spot.
I did have to learn the "Genny tilt".

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I've had a number of PM's popping up this week about what I think of the drill-bit-method, how I build my coils, how TO build coils, etc. This seems like a good place and a good time to explain some things...

There's a couple of things here I want to point out: First of all, in my experience with the drill bit method, I also have all of the same problems and issues you pointed out at the end of your post. With a proper coil build, NONE of those problems occur.

You see, when you use the drill bit method- especially if you happen to wrap your coils extra-loose- your coil doesn't contact the mesh enough to both stay saturated AND use the mesh as a heat sink to transfer excess heat- in other words, you starve your coils and then allow them to get way too hot. This causes the break-in period, the "genny tilt" problem, the wicking issues related to loss of flavor, and any other indications that the wick is not staying saturated.

It's a good method to use if you absolutely cannot do a normal coil build, but it is just that- a stopgap before building a well-functioning setup that requires no concessions on your end.

In my experience:

-Follow the majority of your method, except forget the drill bit/winding the coil first- you want contact with the mesh across the whole coil.

-Oxidize the seam of your mesh very well before rolling your mesh, and carefully fold the seam over and re-oxidize. The juice burn is mostly voodoo to me now, it's the torch that matters. When placing your mesh in the wick hole, you want the seam facing the center post, where it will not contact the first wrap at all. Oh yeah, and for me, solid wicks all the way.

-Wrap your coil with a firm hand, but not tight- you want the slightest bit of slack in there for adjustments later. No need to double up the leads/twist the leads, etc- if you have no hotspots, you will have no hot leads either. If you do have hotspots, work them up or down the coil with a metal implement until the coil glows evenly. This extra step is the only one avoided with the drill bit method, but sometimes its not even necessary- even if it is, learning how to do this step and building a proper coil will help you avoid ALL the issues you mentioned at the end of your post.

It takes a matter of minutes to prepare a wick and coil setup like I described, at least after getting experienced with it. I vape without a "genny tilt", sometimes near-vertical- testing the limits of capillary action. There is never a loss of taste, or lack of it- I mean, why would we use genesis atomizers if the taste is muted? That defeats the purpose of these devices. Leaving fill screws out is a thing of the past- nowadays, with a proper wick and coil, you can leave the fill screw in AND have the biggest wick taking up the entire wick hole, and instead of wicking problems, you'll see bubbles coming out of the bottom of the wick .

So, if ya wanna stick with your method, go ahead. If you want to forget about all of the issues you're having, try mine . I hope this answers some of the PM questions people have asked me. Perhaps I should do a full tutorial soon to get the word out, we shall see.

Edit: I forgot to mention, there is only one situation where the drill bit method is necessary AND doesn't affect the build- when you have a very, very short wick, and very little space to work in. In my experience, this would mean a setup like a vertical-SS build in a Phoenix, A7, or other "dripping" atty. In that case, you want to almost struggle a bit when inserting your wick into the coils- that way, you know that the coils are touching the wick completely, and with these drip-atty setups, the short length of the wick will counteract the ill effects of the DBM.

shawnatjr;8382131 said:

anybody still having probs with hotspots on the top coil should try this, just loosen the tension on the nuts a little, sounds weird but honestly works....while washers will work as well anyone looking for a temp solution tried this after watching a vid of rip trippers on the did and it works everytime.

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Loosening the connection between the positive post and the positive lead is doing only one thing: preventing the current from efficiently travelling from one to the other, which means you're losing voltage. To save teh high-performance of your atty, the best way to solve the top-coil-hotspot issue is to 1. make sure your wick is fully oxidized, 2. make sure you fold the seam over AND that the seam is not contacting the top coil (face the center post), and 3. learn to properly adjust your coils. Skipping step three puts you right back to what I was explaining in the post above. Best of luck

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