Brass Screen Mod

[KevinD872]

Slight modification:
Easy to make,
Uses 3 screens,
Fills faster than dropping into an empty cart.

Did you just stack them then roll them up?

[KevinD872]

I've tried this mod per the OP, but with 3 screens I was able to get about 4 drops in then it started pooling for some reason. I tried stretching some of the holes with a small sewing needle but it didn't help. So, I ended up going with 2 screens. It mostly works but I am noticing some minor leaking but more importantly, it is flooding my atty. I also am not noticing any major decrease in atty temp.

How are you guys cramming the cone shaped screen into the cart? I find it nearly impossible to get crammed in there without flattening the entire thing.

I feel like it is close, but this isn't quite there yet for me due to the flooding and leaking.

[Quitter]

I've been wrestling with 801 carts since I got my Janty Stick. They just plain suck at wicking!! I'm at wit's end! I gotta give this a try.

Are these the same screens that some people use for pipes of illegal purposes?

[rhoneil]

Slight modification:
Easy to make,
Uses 3 screens,
Fills faster than dropping into an empty cart.

Its also easy to take out with a paper clip.
So far no leaking at all with coffee flavor from NHaler.com
BUT I am still worried that I am going to ruin these atomizers. The material on the top of the atty looks crushed. My worry would be if I put a different brass filter cart in there that does not have the same shape it would not touch the bridge or crush it down more. I am being extra cautious not to twist at all. I am sure that the material on the bridge would break off.
I tried to make the mod so it would kinda spring up and down. The brass filter can have that flexibility if folded or positioned the right way. But if there is too much material in there and its touching all sides of the inside of the cart, it is not going to move much which could damage the bridge if twisted.

more when I learn more.

rho

[Stric9]

I've been wrestling with 801 carts since I got my Janty Stick. They just plain suck at wicking!! I'm at wit's end! I gotta give this a try.

Are these the same screens that some people use for pipes of illegal purposes?

Uh, Yeah... But they're also used in standard tobacco pipes too. I (ummmm) had a lot of experience with these from my youth. A "Go for what you know" kind of thing. Brass is also one of the best metals for conducting heat. Stainless would also work, Aluminum would too but aluminum is usually comprised of some type of alloy. I would not recommend copper. for example: 7075T normally which contains a good deal of copper.

[earthdawn]

That's almost exactly how my first one looked and it hasn't leaked since I made it. You should be good to go...

What did you use to push it down with? the pen cap?

yea exactly.

So far so good, Been using it all day. no leaks.

Now I went to do a refill and had the same issue as KevinD872 so I had to use a needle to pull the screens out to fill. But before I filled it I cut down the long tail section of the screens. I should have takin a pic... sorry. But I just cut off with sizzors what I saw as excess to try and make it not so dense so liquid could travel through. It kinda worked but then clogged up again only allowing 3 more drops.
I pulled the screen out again a filled it then replaced the screen. I am wondering if a couple of pin sized or paperclip sized holes would allow it to fill from the top easier. I think it is not allowing the air in the 510 carts to be displaced, hence not allowing anymore liquid when we know theres room for it.

[rhoneil]

Did you just stack them then roll them up?

No, what i did was fold two of them in half and left one unfolded. Leaving you with one circle and 2 half circles. From here I have been trying different things.

1:
a- Roll one half circle with the fold on the top around a toothpick.
b- Roll another half circle around the first with the folds both on top.
c- Wrap the circle around the other two with the top of the circle touching the top edge of the others. The key here would be the orientation of the last piece. You dont want the strands of the mesh to be straight up and down to the top of mod. You want to turn it at a 45 degree angle so it has some flex (up and down). You may need to pinch and roll from the middle down to hold the top up. You also may need to cut the bottom to size depending on how much it stretches.

Final product looks like a rose from the top and a cone from the side.
Removing from the cart only requires a paper clip to the middle hole and tilt to the side to expose an edge then pull out.

Cons: Sometimes the pieces come apart when removing from the cart. To remedy I tried this.

2:
a- Start with the circle and two half circles.
b- Slip the circle inside the fold of one of the half circles and roll.
c- Roll the second half circle around the other two slightly above the top of the other two to create a kind of dent in the middle for the atty bridge to go.

The outer sheet may sometimes come apart from the other two but the circle and the one half circle should stay together.

The taste and vapor seems to be just as good as the FRF PTB mod that I have been using with a slightly easier draw.

Right now I only have the variation "1" in a cart and have not had an issue leaking. A couple of times it seemed like it was getting dry but I think I may have lost contact with the atty bridge. Because this has a hole in the middle I was able to use a paper clip to prop it back up and replace into the atty. With this material I think its important to always have contact with the atty bridge. after topping off or removing the cart from the atty for any reason I may need to adjust it. Again, depending on the orientation we may be able to get some spring action but it just depends on how much material we can use and how. Id like to be able to use this without having to worry about that contact and not crush the bridge material at the same time.

I already went through 4 packs of 5. I need to get some more. When I get it to where I really am satisfied I maybe I'll make a quick video if anyone is interested.

rho

[imogene]

Buy the stainless steel pipe screens if you want to use this mod.

verdigris
\ver"di*gris\ (?), n. [f. vert-de-gris, apparently from verd, vert, green + de of + gris gray, but really a corruption of ll. viride aeris (equivalent to l. aerugo), from l. viridis green + aes, aeris, brass. see verdant, and 2d ore.]
1. (chem.) a green poisonous substance used as a pigment and drug, obtained by the action of acetic acid on copper, and consisting essentially of a complex mixture of several basic copper acetates.

verdigris

Green-blue coating of copper ethanoate that forms naturally on copper, bronze, and brass. It is an irritating, poisonous compound made by treating copper with ethanoic acid, and was formerly used in wood preservatives, antifouling compositions, and green paints.

Brass is an alloy made up of copper, zinc and other metals such as tin, aluminum, nickel, arsenic, and iron, which is very susceptible to tarnishing, corrosion, and verdigris (all these mean the same thing). I just finished reading the Wikipedia article on brass, can you tell?

Verdigris is poisonous and not all brass is intended to be used with water. (Actually, only one type out of about 25 listed on Wikipedia). The brass screens for pipes most certainly isn't supposed to be used wet. Be careful with this mod to dispose of your brass cart fillers before they corrode, tarnish, or develop verdigris!

You might want to consider using the stainless steel pipe screens.

[KevinD872]

Hmmmm. Always a catch! Maybe I will have to look into some stainless screens then. I have been using one of my newly modded carts (a 901 cart) in my 510 and although it seemed like it was flooding the atty at first, it seems to have gotten better. I had put 10 drops in. Maybe too much? I also did a 510 cart but put that aside for now. BTW, I am using PG juice, which I mention because I think the OP said he was using VG which is thicker and less prone to leaking/flooding in this scenario.

This mesh seems to be a bit finicky like the PTB, which is one reason I never tried the PTB mod. I have been happy with the blue foam but there are some concerns about it. While I haven't personally noticed any bad taste or burning/melting, I would like to find something "safer" (read: no doubts about leeching, etc) for long-term use. As has been said...... the "holy grail".

[DC2]

OK so I jumped on this mod to try it out.
Got the 5 pack of brass etc....

Now I put them in point side up and then pushed it in but it was just about even with the top and obviously thats not far enough down so I pushed it down in the center with the pen cap gently so it would line up with the bridge without crushing it down. Once I did that it fit perfect BUT the what was the peak of the brass filter was now indented on the top a little. It works great !!!.... but is it a problem being indented ?

Pic is posted below to show as best I can.

THANKS and big props for this idea !!!!

I would think this is the way to go.

First of all, pushing it down with a pen cap or something is probably going to cause it to push outwards at the bottom so it forms better contact with the sides of the cartridge, thereby reducing leakage issues even more.

And secondly, in general the more wicking material (in this case the brass mesh) that is in contact with the atomizer bridge, the better. Although in this case there could reach a point of too much brass mesh in contact with the atomizer bridge, but I'm not sure.

I have pyramid tea bags in the house, waiting for my wife to empty one of them.
And I went out and bought some of that blue filter foam as well, but haven't tried it yet either.

And I just happen to have some of these brass mesh screens around.
I really don't remember why I happen to have a bunch of them.