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Thread: Kanger protank rebuild

  1. #41
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    Using 1mm silica helped me with the flavor wicks. I used two.

    I learned everything I needed to know in life walking the streets of Compton.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamDaddy View Post
    use photobucket so you can show bigger pictures.

    I learned everything I needed to know in life walking the streets of Compton.

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    I've been cannibalizing my remaining Vivi replacements and using the wicks on my Kanger ProTanks instead of using the Kanger replacement wicks. Generally able to get roughly 2.8-3ohm doing that, much better flavor. It's also been tough to go back to carto-tank combinations since I've gotten so used to the easy draw on ProTanks. At this point, I really don't use anything else. Replacing the wicks, thanks to this tutorial, has been easy-peezy.

    Oh yeah, the bamboo wick I bought? Not very good at all. Seems to burn very easily and leaves an odd taste, even after thoroughly washing the wick.

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    So I've tried to rebuild it about 5 times now, EVERY TIME the base of my kanger protank turns boiling hot after a short amount of use...
    Does anyone know what's causing this? I highly doubt anyone who's rebuilt a kanger protank head here hasn't experienced it.. Pretty shocked it also hasn't been mentioned.

    Edit: I just read you need to use no resistance wire on these... Similar to the GG ODDY.. If you don't the base will heat up....

    OP; Thanks for not mentioning any of this in your original post......
    Last edited by neofelis; 04-21-2013 at 10:10 PM.

  5. #45
    Senior Member Verified Member obsidianchao's Avatar
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    Attempted this with a viva nova head to place into my protank... threw both heads out lol. Too much trouble for me, man. Great guide, though! It was fun seeing the inner workings.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by neofelis View Post
    So I've tried to rebuild it about 5 times now, EVERY TIME the base of my kanger protank turns boiling hot after a short amount of use...
    Does anyone know what's causing this? I highly doubt anyone who's rebuilt a kanger protank head here hasn't experienced it.. Pretty shocked it also hasn't been mentioned.

    Edit: I just read you need to use no resistance wire on these... Similar to the GG ODDY.. If you don't the base will heat up....

    OP; Thanks for not mentioning any of this in your original post......
    I didn't mention no-resistance because it isn't what I used. I've never used no-resistance wire in my Protank rebuilds. I've never had any problems with my rebuilds.

    Don't blame me for your inability to rebuild a coil correctly.
    Butters78, Baums, Argusi and 6 others like this.

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    Super Member ECF Veteran LazyBulldogge's Avatar
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    I've only rebuilt 1 Protank coil so far, with 6 wraps of Kanthal D 0.2mm (AWG 32 I think?).
    It gets warm yes, but so does the stock coil, and I don't double back the legs, use non-resistance wire or anything like that either. I do only vape at 6.5 Watts though, as that's what I fancy, but no boiling hot clearo for me either

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    Been rebuilding Vivi Nova heads for 9 months or so and the Pro Tank is virtually identical. Never doubled up wire on legs, never used no-resistance wire, never had a burnt insulator. Make sure the new wick is saturated before you vape and bring your voltage/power up slowly to break in the new coil. If you taste burnt flavor, turn it down! You're vaping, not arc welding.
    AN cig look-alike, Ego-C, Ego Twist, Lavatube, Provari V2, iTaste, Evic, Vivi Nova, iClear 16 & 30, Pro Tank, AGA-T2, Cobra, Telescope mech, Precise Plus 18650, GUS 16, Mini DID

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    Me too. Never used NR with my vivi novas, evods, or protank.

    Only time I did was with a terminator-c where it's required.

    If I had to deal with nr in such a small space I'd rather pay for new heads.
    Flyer likes this.

    I learned everything I needed to know in life walking the streets of Compton.

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    I am almost ready to start rebuilding. However, question for some of you experts. Do you think the Ekowool could be used for the wick in the T-3, evod, and the protank? If so, what mm do you recommend? I plan on picking up some regular silica as well

    OP: Great post!

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