Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17
Like Tree2Likes

Thread: Help Protank 2 Problems

  1. #1
    Full Member Verified Member
    ECF Veteran
    sss1911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    128

    Default Help Protank 2 Problems

    I just got a provari mini and protank 2 in the mail

    Charged up the batteries and washed and filled the protank 2 with ejuice. Screwed on the protank and got nothing.
    The draw is so tight I cant even pull on it. No Vapor no nothing.
    I proceded to unscrew the tank at 1/2 turn intervals until finally i got a vape. but by the time i got a vape there was a huge gap between the protank and the provari. And its loose.
    I have tried taking the whole thing apart and re assembling it and am still having the same problem.

    I also tried it on an ego twist and it screws down all the way and works fine.
    Any suggestions would be awesome.
    The only thing i havent tried is to switch the heads in the tank

  2. #2
    Super Member Verified Member
    ECF Veteran
    GetVaked's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    746

    Default

    Yeah, it really is unacceptable stock on the Provari. Pretty disappointing, I even filed the air channel to no avail. I shouldn't have to have it wobbling, half way screwed down for an acceptable hit. Luckily I got it for free. Im going to try the V1 base.

    It does work perfect on a Smoktech Winder. And on my Sigelei Zmax Mini, it is pretty sub-par as well, a little better than the Provari, but not much.

    Vaping: TimeBomb - Julius, SuicideBunny - Mothers Milk, AVE - Bobas Bounty.




  3. #3
    Super Member Verified Member
    ECF Veteran
    Supporting Member
    minigoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    610

    Default

    Sounds like a bad base, with the airhole to high up into the 510 threaded part. Compare it to something you have that works.

    I can't think of anything to fix it though. Sorry

    I have two PT2 that work fine.

  4. #4
    Super Member Intervap's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Port Huron, Mi
    Posts
    332

    Default

    I'm not familiar with the Provari Mini but if there is anyway to get airflow by drilling a couple small holes in the upper part of the device.
    If you can't do that, just put something small, like broken toothpicks, inbetween the provari and protank.

  5. #5
    Super Member Verified Member
    ECF Veteran
    GetVaked's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    746

    Default

    Hmm, could work, but I really dont want to rig it up like that or drill on something like the Provari, could void my warranty. =/
    Vaping: TimeBomb - Julius, SuicideBunny - Mothers Milk, AVE - Bobas Bounty.




  6. #6
    PV Master Verified Member
    ECF Veteran
    Train2's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    CA, USA
    Posts
    5,893

    Default

    I think you may want one of these - an airflow controller!
    Attachment 238577
    Rickajho likes this.

  7. #7
    PV Master Verified Member
    ECF Veteran
    Train2's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    CA, USA
    Posts
    5,893

    Default

    Also - is the an actual Kanger Protank, or from FastTech.
    I've noticed one of the differences is that a Kanger has airflow channels cut into the base, and the close doesn't...
    If it's working fine on other devices, then it doesn't sound like the coil, it sounds like an airflow problem!

    My ProTank has a good draw - not on a Provari though...
    I have a related/similar-maybe issue with the T3 not drawing on an SVD!
    The ProTank works great, an EVOD works great - but on a T3, the 510 threads are extra deep I think, and the airflow holes get blocked!
    ANyway - I'm getting one of those airflow controllers - people also use them to "protect" against wearing our delicate 510 threads on their Mods (if frequent screwing and unscrewing - wear out your $3 part, not your Mod).

  8. #8
    Ultra Member Verified Member
    ECF Veteran

    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Laurel, MD
    Posts
    1,607

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Train2 View Post
    Also - is the an actual Kanger Protank, or from FastTech.
    I've noticed one of the differences is that a Kanger has airflow channels cut into the base, and the close doesn't...
    If it's working fine on other devices, then it doesn't sound like the coil, it sounds like an airflow problem!

    My ProTank has a good draw - not on a Provari though...
    I have a related/similar-maybe issue with the T3 not drawing on an SVD!
    The ProTank works great, an EVOD works great - but on a T3, the 510 threads are extra deep I think, and the airflow holes get blocked!
    ANyway - I'm getting one of those airflow controllers - people also use them to "protect" against wearing our delicate 510 threads on their Mods (if frequent screwing and unscrewing - wear out your $3 part, not your Mod).
    I'm afraid the air flow controller could cause extra stress on the 510 connector, which would cause more wear than screwing and unscrewing tanks and atomizers. Maybe I'm wrong.
    I've only been in love with a beer bottle and a mirror.

  9. #9
    Full Member Verified Member
    ECF Veteran
    sss1911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Train2 View Post
    Also - is the an actual Kanger Protank, or from FastTech.
    I've noticed one of the differences is that a Kanger has airflow channels cut into the base, and the close doesn't...
    If it's working fine on other devices, then it doesn't sound like the coil, it sounds like an airflow problem!

    My ProTank has a good draw - not on a Provari though...
    I have a related/similar-maybe issue with the T3 not drawing on an SVD!
    The ProTank works great, an EVOD works great - but on a T3, the 510 threads are extra deep I think, and the airflow holes get blocked!
    ANyway - I'm getting one of those airflow controllers - people also use them to "protect" against wearing our delicate 510 threads on their Mods (if frequent screwing and unscrewing - wear out your $3 part, not your Mod).
    It is the real kanger protank 2

  10. #10
    Full Member Verified Member
    ECF Veteran
    sss1911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    128

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by minigoat View Post
    Sounds like a bad base, with the airhole to high up into the 510 threaded part. Compare it to something you have that works.

    I can't think of anything to fix it though. Sorry

    I have two PT2 that work fine.
    It looks like the air holes are on top of the highest thread

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks