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Thread: Brand New Protank II Rusting

  1. #61
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    I have the protank 2 also, i haven't come across this issue and have skimmed most of these posts in this thread, if i had a chance to take mine apart for cleaning I am sure i could confirm the centre tube is probably ferrous - iron containing. all the other parts for the protanks need to be cast into a mold and brass suits itself perfectly for small ornate parts. the centre tube loans itself to being made out of steel or stainless tube as it accepts threading well and has better strength. i guess the plating on the threads of the centre tube have worn a bit, the rust can be from anything like galvanic corrosion (dissimilar metals in contact) or possibly the water or juice reaction. in either case several people mentioned that rust inst intrinsically harmful. if you do ingest some you might feel slightly less anaemic. i will probably tear down my PT-II in a week and confirm. the worst case scenario for rusting in your protank is from poor machining practices whereby contamination residue from use on ferrous parts carries over to machining on protank brass parts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator4 View Post
    Because they want even more vapour than a standard setup can give them. There's an art to doing sub ohm, or running SR coils at high watts and most of it is to do with making sure the wick can stay wet enough to prevent burning. The first step is probably rebuildable atomisers and wrapping coils on s/s mesh and cotton. You can then take these techniques to the protank heads and for example make a microcoil on a cotton wick and so on.

    My advice is to stay with the standard type stuff for now, but google all the sub ohm stuff and see what people are doing.

    Yeah, take small steps and get the factory stuff running right first
    So that I know I'm absorbing the information properly, this is what we're talking about, yes? Kayfun lite I've been watching and mentally filing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vapoor eyes er View Post
    You could always add a tiny amount of distilled water to thin it out so it wicks better.


    Although clearos are easier to use I prefer a carto+ tank setup. Maybe if there's a sale pick up a 5 pack and see if you like them. VERY important to first fill properly/ fully saturate fully.
    Thanks for the distilled water tip! It wouldn't have occurred to me to attempt that.

    I'm fairly certain cartos will be my next move following my successful ability to wrap coils ...unless I find something on sale. heh. At least l am laughing about how deluded I was to believe I would save money. I suppose a sense of humor is the winning attitude in the end.

  3. #63
    ECF Guru* ECF Veteran Vapoor eyes er's Avatar
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    I'm fairly certain cartos will be my next move following my successful ability to wrap coils ...unless I find something on sale. heh. At least l am laughing about how deluded I was to believe I would save money. I suppose a sense of humor is the winning attitude in the end.
    If wrapping coils make sure you have a digital multi tester.



    Yeah we've all had frustrating times but humor does help get us thru. At least you've got a tank you're relatively happy with.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by RTYPE11 View Post
    I have the protank 2 also, i haven't come across this issue and have skimmed most of these posts in this thread, if i had a chance to take mine apart for cleaning I am sure i could confirm the centre tube is probably ferrous - iron containing. all the other parts for the protanks need to be cast into a mold and brass suits itself perfectly for small ornate parts. the centre tube loans itself to being made out of steel or stainless tube as it accepts threading well and has better strength. i guess the plating on the threads of the centre tube have worn a bit, the rust can be from anything like galvanic corrosion (dissimilar metals in contact) or possibly the water or juice reaction. in either case several people mentioned that rust inst intrinsically harmful. if you do ingest some you might feel slightly less anaemic. i will probably tear down my PT-II in a week and confirm. the worst case scenario for rusting in your protank is from poor machining practices whereby contamination residue from use on ferrous parts carries over to machining on protank brass parts.

    Not sure I'll figure out what happened but nonetheless, I found this: Kanger Protank 2 Top cap to replace it with so I can mess with the original.

    The affected area has no threading. I mistakenly described the area as having been associated with the bar. It's the opposite end.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vapoor eyes er View Post
    If wrapping coils make sure you have a digital multi tester.


    Yeah we've all had frustrating times but humor does help get us thru. At least you've got a tank you're relatively happy with.
    Nice video. Yes, I have only an analog at this time. Can't wait to get verified so I can start scouring the classifieds... I wonder how many people give up because they can't find equipment that works for them.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Born2Hula View Post
    So that I know I'm absorbing the information properly, this is what we're talking about, yes? Kayfun lite I've been watching and mentally filing.
    Yes, that's a high quality and versatile RBA (Rebuildable Atomiser) that is very versatile and can also be used as an RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomiser) if you wish. It's on the more expensive side of things but is a very good device.

    If you're not sure there are much cheaper RDA's and RBA's around that you can practice on. A reasonable RDA is also useful for testing new juices so very handy to have if you want to try some DIY juice later on.
    Chris, Fidalgo of Fabrication, Viscount of Vapeonly, Duke of Downunder.
    Tobacco free since 15th March 2013. If I could stop buying hardware I might actually save some money.

  7. #67
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    Just got verified and saw the Russian. Missed that chance.

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