Cleaning/Washing 316 SS tubes
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Thread: Cleaning/Washing 316 SS tubes

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    Super Member Verified Member NerdVap0r's Avatar
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    Default Cleaning/Washing 316 SS tubes

    So i just bought a hcigar nemesis & wondering the best way to clean 316 SS tubes while avoiding long tern rust. Is it as easy as just rinsing in warm water & letting it air dry? thx

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    Quote Originally Posted by NerdVap0r View Post
    So i just bought a hcigar nemesis & wondering the best way to clean 316 SS tubes while avoiding long tern rust. Is it as easy as just rinsing in warm water & letting it air dry? thx
    This is going to seem complicated and obsessive - actually takes less time to do than it took to write this little "guide".

    Cleaning with warm soapy water works nicely to remove the usual "stuff" that collects on mechs. Dry with compressed air (compressor or computer blast cans) or just soft cotton toweling. Some prefer to use nothing but 99% IPA... which I have no issues with if that's your preference.
    If the contacts have a bit of corrosion, that can be gently removed with a fine scotchbrite pad, equally fine stainless steel wool or sponge - or 1000 grit or finer wet/dry sandpaper. Rinse cleaning residue with 99% IPA.

    Although I prefer MG Silver grease on electrical contacts and even threads (link for tech reference - buy from Amazon - it's cheaper) - it can be a bit expensive for some - so what ever your preferred anti-corrosion electrical grease - Noalox, Ox-Gard, NO OX ID A and so on. Bare, clean SS works just peachy too.

    If it's bare, polished SS, you may re-polish it with any common metal polish - Mother's, Simichrome, Nevr-Dull - what ever you like - to maintain the finish. Some polishes will leave a protective residue... which in most cases IMO, isn't all that protective.

    Finish with a few light coats of (specifically) Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax to all exterior surfaces (read up on this and you'll understand why it's preferred by so many) - work it in with your fingers then buff lightly to remove residue, using an "extra soft" toothbrush for grooves/crevices and engravings.

    Make sure there is no water remaining inside prior to installing a battery.

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    Quote Originally Posted by State O' Flux View Post
    This is going to seem complicated and obsessive - actually takes less time to do than it took to write this little "guide".

    Cleaning with warm soapy water works nicely to remove the usual "stuff" that collects on mechs. Dry with compressed air (compressor or computer blast cans) or just soft cotton toweling. Some prefer to use nothing but 99% IPA... which I have no issues with if that's your preference.
    If the contacts have a bit of corrosion, that can be gently removed with a fine scotchbrite pad, equally fine stainless steel wool or sponge - or 1000 grit or finer wet/dry sandpaper. Rinse cleaning residue with 99% IPA.

    Although I prefer MG Silver grease on electrical contacts and even threads (link for tech reference - buy from Amazon - it's cheaper) - it can be a bit expensive for some - so what ever your preferred anti-corrosion electrical grease - Noalox, Ox-Gard, NO OX ID A and so on. Bare, clean SS works just peachy too.

    If it's bare, polished SS, you may re-polish it with any common metal polish - Mother's, Simichrome, Nevr-Dull - what ever you like - to maintain the finish. Some polishes will leave a protective residue... which in most cases IMO, isn't all that protective.

    Finish with a few light coats of (specifically) Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax to all exterior surfaces (read up on this and you'll understand why it's preferred by so many) - work it in with your fingers then buff lightly to remove residue, using an "extra soft" toothbrush for grooves/crevices and engravings.

    Make sure there is no water remaining inside prior to installing a battery.
    Thx, nice write up .

    As for just warm water and soap, what ingredients should i avoid?

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    According to their website it is stainless. If it were 316 stainless, it would be advertised as such. 316 stainless is very resistant to corrosion and rust. Under normal conditions, it should never rust. 304, not so much...

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    Quote Originally Posted by NerdVap0r View Post
    Thx, nice write up .

    As for just warm water and soap, what ingredients should i avoid?
    Unless we need to call the bomb squad or DEA on you ... it's unlikely there's anything under your kitchen sink that will do damage to SS.

    Dish soap, Simple Green, Orange Clean or OxyClean and warm/hot water... any of those will be fine.

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    Thx folks. i see, guess the Chna nemmy thread was false on the 316 SS steel. I'll just rinse & scrub with warm water for now. Everythng soap i have at home has chloride which i read was very bad to steel.

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    Dawn dish soap is fine on stainless, either 309 or 316.

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    Seems soap, water & air- All plentiful and cheap-should do fine. If you get something that this won't clean on SS, I'd wonder some...? Lots of material nowhere near as rugged says to clean with 'mild detergent', so I'd think you're overthinking a bit. I think. Or am I overthinking?? Hafta think about that one. Cazan

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    Cape cod polishing cloths is what I use
    FOIL POUCH CAPE CODŽ METAL POLISHING CLOTHS
    Green/Black Reo Mini w/A7rba, ZNA30, Nzonic V3, Turtleshp V2 clone, VTR, EHPRO GGTS clone, Kayfun clones, Vamo's, OG Chrome Infinity, Bulli a2/tm w/vaporage driptip adaptor, ST Telescope, Drawtube, Terminator-c , Ismoka Magoo and a ton of other stuff.


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    I have a big can of Cape Cod that I use as well. Just be careful and don't use it on anything that you don't want removed such as painted writing, glare proofing agents etc. This stuff is pretty strong and will remove scratches and sometimes stuff that you don't want it to, lol. I wasn't all that experienced with it and it removed the glare proofing on one of my watches sapphire, which isn't easy to remove.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dj Xy View Post
    Cape cod polishing cloths is what I use
    FOIL POUCH CAPE CODŽ METAL POLISHING CLOTHS

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