New Ovale eGo-C changeble system. - Page 42
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Thread: New Ovale eGo-C changeble system.

  1. #411
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    I only use "light" juices in my tank devices, so I am pretty sure the juice is not the problem that I am experiencing.

    Sammy: I have not cleaned the C attys yet. I was a cleaning fool though on my cone attys. I had seen your post on how to clean the C's a while back. But the reason I went to the C was because I was tired of cleaning attys. I figured if I cold get 3 or 4 days out of an atty, I would would just toss and replace.

    I used to flop down $5 a day for a pack of cigs with no problem, but it irritates me to no end to have to spend five bucks a day on an atty. Maybe I just need to improve my mindset on that! It would be nice to get some mileage out of these new attys. I'll keep working at it.

    I set one aside yesterday that I thought was dead. I tried it for the heck of it this morning and it started gradually firing (could hear a subtle hissing). So I dry burned it a short while and I'll be darned if it didn't come back to life. I am getting a nice toot off of it. Maybe it was flooded?

    Sammy, when you mention that you boiled the atty, do you mean that you literally boiled it?

  2. #412
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    Well it seems I'm late to the party... I just learned about the new C (been really busy and haven't been keeping up with the latest ecig tech) and ordered the trial pack from Vickie at cignot. I like it so far. I think I will just switch to this setup permanently as I really like how economical this setup is. It looks easy enough to get apart and to dry burn and burn the wick, however at $5.00 a pop, I am not sure it is worth the effort... I guess it will depend on how much life I get out of them. I did just burn though a tank in 30 minutes however. I am certain that this is because I am using an LR atty with a Riva batt. It kicks really hard, and I think SR atties will do me fine until I kill these batts and try the C batts. Skimming though this thread I see that there is talk about a type B ego C coming eventually. Forgive me for not reading though this entire thread to figure this out (I have a three year old boy running at at full tilt at the moment and have my hands full). I am wondering if anyone has any info on if this will be available soon. It looks like the threads on the cone part that hold the atty in place are machined directly into the cone...I was hoping I could remove the threads and insert them into a gutted type B.... defiantly a no go on that... Bummer. At any rate if I can get more than 30 minutes of vaping (chain vaping that is) out of this then I will certainly be a happy camper.

  3. #413
    Super Member ECF Veteran sammy43's Avatar
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    Default eGo-C atty cleaning

    Quote Originally Posted by DonD13 View Post
    Sammy, when you mention that you boiled the atty, do you mean that you literally boiled it?
    Here is the process I use to clean the C atomizer. This is the same for both the SR and LR. I clean the SR weekly and the LR every 4-5 days.

    Boiling
    Yup I boil it. I used a small saucepan with just enough water to cover the atty, bring it to a boil and then throw in the atty and the wick. Take the saucepan off the burner and move it to a cold burner and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes. You will see all the old juice come off the atty and the wick if you watch it. It will stream off in a dark color like tea.

    Removing the wick plate
    You can take the wick plate off with a small jewelers screwdriver by prying on the flat side of the wick plate a bit and then turn it, pry some more, repeat and it will eventually come off. Make note of the alignment of the wick plate shape with the shape of the ceramic cup inside the atty so you can put it back together the same way. Note I usually do the boil before I take the atty plate off as this makes it less likely that the wick will stick to the atty and pull out of the spike when you take it apart. Take it slow!

    Cleaning the wick
    After this I use a pair of hemostats to hold the wick plate by the edges (not the spike) and then take a lighter to the exposed wick. I touch the edge of the flame (where it turns from blue to yellow) to the wick and burn off any juice that is left. The wick will turn white. I then rinse it with some water and then use the flame again to dry it. Be careful as it gets hot!
    Don't burn your fingers!

    Dry burning the atty
    For the atty...Blow through the battery end of the atty to get any leftover water out. I do a dry burn with the wick still off. Just place the atty on the base and screw on the cone. Press the button for about 4 seconds until the coil starts to glow and gives off some vapor. Let it rest for a second and then press it again. Keep doing this about 5-6 times until the entire coil glows evenly. Take the atty out and then rinse it with some hot water to get the charred juice off. Sink sprayer with hot water comes in handy for this. Blow through the battery end of the atty to get any leftover water out. You can then repeat the dry burn process to dry the coil and the wick material inside the coil.

    Cleaning the cone and the atty base
    I also run some hot water through the cone and the atty base to get the dry burn smell off. Take the atty base off your battery and run hot water through it and through the cone. Dry the cone and atty base with a paper towel. I roll the paper towel to a point and stick it in the cone and swirl it around. You can also blow through the atty base to clean out any leftover water.

    Putting it back together
    After you finish cleaning the wick and the coil you can re-assemble the atty. I use an empty tank with a plastic tank cap. Place a drop or two of e-juice on the wick and also on the atty coil. Stick the spike of the primed wick plate in the tank and press the wick plate back on the atty. Note the shape of the wick plate matches the shape of the ceramic cup in the atty. The atty plate should be flush with the edge of the atomizer making an even surface across.

    Place the cleaned atty back on the atty base, screw in the cone, throw on your tank filled with your favorite e-juice and vape away! The cleaned atty should work almost like a new one.

    Here are some before and after eGo-C atty cleaning pics.


    Last edited by sammy43; 01-14-2012 at 01:55 AM.

    eVic with eGo-C LR 1.8 ohm

  4. #414
    Super Member ECF Veteran SirVette's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orion7319 View Post
    ... Skimming though this thread I see that there is talk about a type B ego C coming eventually. ...
    It looks like the threads on the cone part that hold the atty in place are machined directly into the cone...I was hoping I could remove the threads and insert them into a gutted type B.... defiantly a no go on that... Bummer. ....
    I expect someone will put a C atty in a T atty/cone. I removed the atty from a type A atty/cone & the C atty drops in place! All that would be needed is an extension to the + post to work. Looks relatively easy.
    Elite 808 w/ 901&T attys eGo-C eGo-T Janty eGo

  5. #415
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    I've dry burned my C type LR attys at least 15 times each and their still going strong running about 3ml a day, the wicks had to be replaced due to an alcohol bath in my ultrasonic cleaner...they just decinagrated.

    I used salvaged mesh from an old T type atty and some 1800 degree silica thread to rebuild the wicks, a bit of microsurgery involved, working as good as new now.

    Cignot now has the LR atty's in stock by the way.
    marcusuperbus likes this.

  6. #416
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    I can't find the post on here but someone said they use a pen to make holes in the silicon tank. Id like more info. Sometimes I don't a good clean hole in the silicon & get that burnt taste. Thanks!

  7. #417
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    That was me Bun. I gutted a small diameter pen cartridge and sharpened the open end with a small round file. I place the silicone cap on a black piece of cotton t-shirt, it makes it easier see to center the punch, you don't want to twist to make the hole, just push down and a slight pivot in a circular motion and you'll have a nice clean hole slightly smaller in diameter than the spike.
    One other thing I did was file the sharp edge off the spike, I was finding even with the caps pre-punched that sharp spike edge was damaging the caps, the smooth spike has helped with that.
    Your burnt taste Is probably due to a wicking problem, not necessarily a cap issue, however, your caps will definetiley last longer not being torn by the spike.
    Although the C model I'm using now produces great vapor and much more flavor than my old T setup it's still a constant battle keeping the leaks to a minamum, I'll be moving to the GotVapes Stardust tank as soon as their back in stock, I hear good things and their as close to leakproof as one can get.
    Last edited by TruSound; 01-16-2012 at 02:26 AM.

  8. #418
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    Can these new atty's be steam cleaned? Are there holes like the larger attys at the top, sides and bottom?

    With my current atty's I use a pressured steam jet - give them a good 30 sec shot every week or so and they look like new again. Usually give them a shot from the top and the bottom. Steam shoots out about 2 feet from all sides of the atty and like I said - looks like new again.

  9. #419
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    Sammy,
    Nice detailed, explanation of your process!!! As usual!
    I have a stack of "C" LR Atty's waiting for a clean up session. I was just going to pitch them, but I might as well see how many I can bring back to 100%...

  10. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by bunwabit View Post
    I can't find the post on here but someone said they use a pen to make holes in the silicon tank. Id like more info. Sometimes I don't a good clean hole in the silicon & get that burnt taste. Thanks!
    I use truman's trick (thanks truman!) to pre-punch the soft tank caps and it does help. If the tank does not have a good seal then juice will not wick in when you draw. A tight cap seal around the spike will wick much better!

    You might want to check my earlier post about tank and atty alignment for some other suggestions on avoiding dry burns. Hope this helps.

    eVic with eGo-C LR 1.8 ohm

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