atmizoo by atmizone - General Discussion for current and upcoming Projects. - Page 3
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Thread: atmizoo by atmizone - General Discussion for current and upcoming Projects.

  1. #21
    Super Member Verified Member curisu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by porkchopharry View Post
    I would like to be the first (on this thread at least) to request an official Atmizoo rebuildable atomizer/genesis device that matches the diameter of the Roller/Dingo. I would also like to request that it be available in all of the finishes that you offer on the battery mods.
    Second that motion! Their website shows a carto tank, the Bayou, in development, but I've never had a really good vape off a carto.
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    Quote Originally Posted by curisu View Post
    Second that motion! Their website shows a carto tank, the Bayou, in development, but I've never had a really good vape off a carto.
    i think a lot of people use carto tanks for the driver or killer 705 now. i know i do hehe
    Science is science, forget the politics. Vaping saves lives.

  3. #23
    Full Member MechaHerc's Avatar
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    actually how many revision the dingo and roller switch have?

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    RO25 Rollers had a different switch assembly design. These were all updated with early RO40-batch switches.

    RO40/DI40 and newer have the same switch assembly design. Newer production batches have only slight design/material and production process improvements.
    Last edited by theops; 07-21-2013 at 08:48 PM.

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    The bottom of my roller gets hot?? Do I have a short somewhere?

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    Full Member MechaHerc's Avatar
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    i still don't know why my roller seems not fire "fiercely" lol.. i already cleaned all the switch part.. all the contact.. but i dont know, it seems my evic is much better at firing.. am i missing something at the switch..

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockstarr View Post
    The bottom of my roller gets hot?? Do I have a short somewhere?
    If it's only the cap that feels hot (the battery is not hot to touch), it might be due to an oxidized and/or collapsed spring. Dirty/oxidized surfaces and inadequate contact force (collapsed spring) will translate into resistance and heat.

    Brass, un-plated springs need to be cleaned periodically, especially if you are vaping with a low-ohm resistance.
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  8. #28
    Registered Supplier ECF Veteran theops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MechaHerc View Post
    i still don't know why my roller seems not fire "fiercely" lol.. i already cleaned all the switch part.. all the contact.. but i dont know, it seems my evic is much better at firing.. am i missing something at the switch..
    The Roller is not VV/VW, so a comparison is not really meaningful. With a VV device, the desired voltage is applied directly on the load, and still, the actual (rms) voltage might be far from the set-point.

    A mech device outputs the open circuit battery voltage minus some voltage that is lost on the internal battery resistance and the mod / atomizer. This depends on the current / atomizer resistance.

    For example, a 1.5 Ohm resistance will usually result in a voltage drop in the range of 0.2-0.3 V. This is perfectly normal with mechs.

    Note that VV/VW PVs *still* waste some power on their mechanical and electronic components, usually more than mechanical devices. This is not perceived, though, since the voltage/wattage on the atomizer resistance is kept constant.
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by MechaHerc View Post
    i still don't know why my roller seems not fire "fiercely" lol.. i already cleaned all the switch part.. all the contact.. but i dont know, it seems my evic is much better at firing.. am i missing something at the switch..
    You're probably using far too high of ohms for a mechanical mod if you're able to use it on an evic.
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    Science is science, forget the politics. Vaping saves lives.

  10. #30
    Full Member MechaHerc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theops View Post
    The Roller is not VV/VW, so a comparison is not really meaningful. With a VV device, the desired voltage is applied directly on the load, and still, the actual (rms) voltage might be far from the set-point.

    A mech device outputs the open circuit battery voltage minus some voltage that is lost on the internal battery resistance and the mod / atomizer. This depends on the current / atomizer resistance.

    For example, a 1.5 Ohm resistance will usually result in a voltage drop in the range of 0.2-0.3 V. This is perfectly normal with mechs.

    Note that VV/VW PVs *still* waste some power on their mechanical and electronic components, usually more than mechanical devices. This is not perceived, though, since the voltage/wattage on the atomizer resistance is kept constant.
    thanks mate i will try to check the drop voltage and show it here later.. btw i have a question about the switch (need to clear something in m head) :



    Part A - I have O-Ring below of this part (at the brass ring there).. I've seen before without O-Ring.. so which one is the latest?
    Part B - This tiny rod when insert into the Part C hole, izzit too loose, or fits or too fit?
    Part D - I think my switch dont have this part..

    thanks in advance..

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