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My method to clean the heating coil of any atomizer. in Tips and Tricks; I agree that it shouldn't be made an assumption that it is carbon merely because it is black.. or carbon-like. ...
  1. #21
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    I agree that it shouldn't be made an assumption that it is carbon merely because it is black.. or carbon-like.

    It would be a good idea, I think, to use this method once a week so we're not inhaling from potentially dangerous chemicals as we are many of us trying to avoid with e-cigs, or to market a similar setup because there are definately a lot people like myself who have no clue what you're talking about nor anything about cords, wires, electricity, or Chemistry. I forgot everything I learned in school. Even took a college Chem class with the intention of majoring in it and I can't remember, now.

    It would be awesome if people could take the extra time to explain the process or the meaning of some of these technical things every once in a while so the common public can make sense of your observations and findings unless, of course, you are too busy. There's a lot of technical jargon on these threads and I don't want to screw something up and ruin an atomizer or electrocute myself, I'm sure you understand .

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  3. #22
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    Default Warranty

    Quote Originally Posted by iam0z View Post
    now i wouldn't mind helping you folks with this but i have two atomizers and they work and they better at least a year cause that's the warranty on them. when they give up on me they'll go back for replacement if the warranty is not expired. oh and they only cost 6 dollars a piece not to bad a deal eh? even though i have been reading alot and i have ordered spares and they are on their way
    Could you please tell us where you buy these atomizers with a one year warranty ?

    Thanks...

  4. #23
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    Post Well Said--Only problem is there is no way to tell?

    Quote Originally Posted by iam0z View Post
    folks PLEASE as i have been following this for quite some time i keep asking myself the same thing why haven't they tried to identify what they are trying to dissolve and go forward from there? Is it carbon if not what else could it be? .............. I am a machinist and i can identify certain metals from each other by the color their sparks make when you use a grinder on them and seems to me i also remember a chemistry teacher telling me in high school chemicals can be identified by the color the flame turns when the substance is immersed in a flame ya know? like sulfur will turn the flame yellow and so on. So identify what you want to disolve and then find a safe chemical that reacts with it if at all possible ok? then we go from there
    iam0z--We would love to have the residue identified, but we do not know how. We do not have a lab like CSI Miami here and any ideas on how we could go about that that is reasonable and cost effective would be appreciated. I am sure a lab with the right equitment could identify it--but where do we find on that will test if for a reasonable price is the issue----Sun

  5. #24
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    I have thought of another great use for the black gunk ......heat shielding for the space shuttle's on earth re-entry.

  6. #25
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    I officially killed my first atomizer today. It was from VaporKing and they cautioned against dripping. Good thing they did. My atomizer failed, no matter what voltage I applied to it. There was no continuity whatsoever (useful for those who know what a voltmeter is used for). I ripped the penstyle atomizer apart and determined that I had burned through the wire that vaporizes the e-liquid. So, dripping can shorten the life of your atomizers, but I do not plan to stop this behavior.

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sun Vaporer View Post
    iam0z--We would love to have the residue identified, but we do not know how. We do not have a lab like CSI Miami here and any ideas on how we could go about that that is reasonable and cost effective would be appreciated. I am sure a lab with the right equitment could identify it--but where do we find on that will test if for a reasonable price is the issue----Sun
    I've been assuming nearly 100% carbon,
    despite kinabaloo's ideas that there might be some substantial mineral content.

    I could have another go at XPS (elemental) analysis of a gunked coil/wick,
    this time without cleaning it first (must be 100% 'dry' first though).

    The carbon/oxygen ratio during ion-etching through the layers may
    give a clue as to how close to 'just' carbon it is & whether it's mainly
    elemental cabon, carbide or organic carbon
    - and for the latter the relative amounts/types of oxygen bonding.

    If any other elements (e.g. calcium) turn up in reasonable amount, I'll
    be able to tell if these minerals are present.
    (I'll discount chromium & nickel & silicon, since these will come from the coil/wick
    -if I etch down that far).

    Gets a bit tricky with a physically 'lumpy' sample to analyse though.

    Trouble is, currently my 'worst' coil (just removed it from it's casing), only has a light deposit

    (my autosmoker coil was gunking-up great, till I managed to physically break the wire - damn!)

    edit: posting synchrony kinabaloo
    Last edited by exogenesis; 04-09-2009 at 12:30 AM.

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    The deposit is a melange of different things and this makes it difficult to remove. Probably fused together in some way too. These things, varying according to juices used, would include flavourings and their adjuvants, such as sugars and starches, gums and resins; carbon from heat breakdown of some of the organic components; inorganic minerals; dust, pollen and pollution from the air.

    We are eagerly awaiting results regarding plain VG / PG and distilled water to see if this contributes anything at all.

    Clearly a big step forward lies in the preventative measure of formulating juices with components that will evaporate and not be left behind (dry residue).
    Last edited by kinabaloo; 04-09-2009 at 12:34 AM.

  9. #28
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    Exo ...You can make your own black gunk by using an instant heat soldering iron and repeatedly dipping it into a little pot of juice, it builds up on the side of the iron......perhaps it would be easier for you to test the composition if you do it like that?

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    Good idea, I'll give it a go...

  11. #30
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    Pete - a very good idea!

    Although we could be sure the deposit is exactly the same. I expect it will very close though

    Better still, drip repeatedly on the iron - more tricky, but more accurately matches atty conditions.

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