My method to clean the heating coil of any atomizer. in Tips and Tricks; Originally Posted by breakfastchef
I am convinced there is no 'Holy Grail' method for atomizer revival. Maybe we can prolong ...
-
But we can clean the "filiment' so to speak

Originally Posted by
breakfastchef
I am convinced there is no 'Holy Grail' method for atomizer revival. Maybe we can prolong the life by a short period of time, but they will ultimately fail. If we blew out an atomizer every night and turned it upside down to drain, it would last a bit longer than if we did not do these things. Considering all the junk we put down the tubes, there is no way we can stop the inevitable failure. Like a light bulb (similar to how an atomizer functions) they are going to fail. Atomizers are our lightbulbs and need to be replaced periodically.
Breakfastchef--I understand your furstation--but all of my tests confirm that it is the residue that is causing the coil to snap off the connector. Once reattached, the coil does work. I have done this many times with sucess. So it is not like a filiment of a light bulb that burns out--rather is it the build up that snaps that connection. So, with that in mind, if we are able to clean the coil safely --then the coil will not snap and the atomizer will continue to work for a lot longer. The key is a solvent that will clean the coil without making the atomizer unsafe to vape with---Sun
-
Sun, thanks for your post. If we all did routine daily maintenance as mentioned in my post, we might reduce the amount of burned on gunk our atomizers accumulate. Once the 'gunk' hardens in the material around which the atomizer wire is wrapped, I sincerely doubt we can reverse the inevitable death of the atomizer.
-
PV Master
ECF Veteran
Perhaps the most important factor of all is our choice of juice; they vary considerably in quantity of dry deposit left behind in the atomiser.
Can someone put the link to the dry deposit test photos - i just can't seem to find it.
(we are eagerly awaiting results for plain VG+distilled water)
Last edited by kinabaloo; 04-10-2009 at 01:11 AM.
-
Kinabaloo--new positings this weekend

Originally Posted by
kinabaloo
Perhaps the most important factor of all is our choice of juice; they vary considerably in quantity of dry deposit left behind in the atomiser.
Can someone put the link to the dry deposit test photos - i just can't seem to find it.
Kinabaloo--you will be getting a good look at what you requested this weekend--Taxes have taken up my time--but I am sure you will be very interested in the results of the tests you suggested---Sun
-
Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Would a soy- or citrius-based solvent do the trick?
Here's one I found: Soy-It Bio-Based Degreaser
They claim non-toxic, but unless they will claim I can drink it from the bottle I'm not standing up to be the guinea pig 
...umm if anyone tries this, I told you not to... OK?
-
PV Master
ECF Veteran
Bellinghamster - Interesting product, but grease is not the problem. If i did get any oil in the atomizer I would just add a tint touch of washing-up liquid to the cleaning solution.
-
Certainly I know that acidic salt is the best way to rust-test stainless steel (to detect 304 vs 316 grade)
Atomizers are probably 304 stainless = cheaper.[/quote]
I don't know if "cheaper is the issue with using 304 SS but also it is non magnetic ok? and in a device that uses dc voltage that's a huge plus
-
Won't Immersing the Atomizer Damage it?
Won't Immersing the Atomizer Damage it? I thought it had some kind of electrical part or chip in it.
I'm using a dse901 and an NJOY Pro... what does that equal, a mini e-cig?
Sorry, I've only been vaping for about 2 months and all of this is new and some of it is mindboggling but I do want to make sure my atomizers are clean so they work better.
-
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
Forum Rules
Bookmarks