Cleaning the atomizer - e-cigarette-forum.com • The place for electronic cigarette reviews, news and chat

kinabaloo · 04-08-2009, 03:00 PM

There are two types of solid deposit and one type of liquid residue that cleaning is being used for. Let's clarify these and what we know about each and what we can do about them.

First the liquid residue. By this I mean the excess juice that gets to parts of the atomiser case where it is not used up. This is what draining each night is for. When people use compressed air or boiling then report improvement, this is what they have done - removed the excess juice fluid. Simple draining (place upside down on paper towel) is sufficient for this, whereas compressed air and boiling have inherent dangers.

Second is simple dry residue. This forms when excess juice dries inside the atomiser. When it dries within the metal mesh wicking, it restricts both juice flow and air flow. Some would be removed by a soak or rinse in warm water. Or steam; but steam, like compressed air, risks mechanical damage to the coil and fine connecting wires. Baths that might help remove more dry residue incude detergent and alcohol but the best is probably a weak acid such as citric acid/lemon juice, vinegar and cola. Gently heated is better but boiling is risky (risks include overheating by contact with bottom of pan, bumping around and mechanical damage from bubbles).

Third type is the hardened deposit on the heater coil itself. This is extremely difficult to remove when allowed to build up over weeks (preventative cleaning, of say once or twice per weak with a weak acid might help prevent this build up). It is formed of the dry deposit that originates from the juice (all those substances dissolved in the juice that will not evaporate when heated and are left behind, like limescale in a kettle). Although originally composed of dry residue from the juice, on the coil but mot the metal wick, the deposits are very likely chemically and structurally altered by repeated heating to become over time resistant to removal. This deposit is often the life-limiting factor for atomizers. Some hard-core experiments are being carried out to try to find a solution that is both effective and safe. These are not recommended for home use unless you are good at such things but there has been some success with hydrogen peroxide and, separately, concentrated phosphoric acid. But even with these, atomizers used for many weeks or months can still resist being fully cleaned.

Lorddrek · 04-08-2009, 03:23 PM

Liquid Residue-I will blow my M401 atomizers out when they gurgle too much or dripping more juice does not improve the flavor. I am a fairly controlled dripper so this does not need to be done often.

Dry Residue-I have been soaking my atomizer in rubbing alcohol after about a day of use. This improves wicking ability and flavor. I have 3 I rotate with so an overnight bath and all day dry works quite well for me.

Hardened Deposits-Because I have 3 atomizers I don't think I have yet to reach this point. It is also very hard to even see the M401 coils. I continue to follow these threads in hopes for some sort of breakthru.

I firmly believe that research on this important subject will soon yield positive results that will greatly improve atomizer life. If you can average 2 weeks to a month of life by not doing anything then imagine how long atomizers could last if they were actually cared for.

kinabaloo · 04-08-2009, 03:48 PM

Perhaps the longest we could hope for is around 1 year, but if we could reach a few months on average that would not be too bad.

It's not just about atomizer lifetime - it is also about vape quality.

The best thing one can do is find out how much dry residue is left by the juice(s) one uses and consider changing to ones with less.

exogenesis · 04-08-2009, 07:08 PM

Well done, nice bit of clarity, especially for new readers

Chuckle Brother · 04-08-2009, 09:12 PM

I have tried several methods quoted on here but without any significant effect.

So i looked around my house to see what might breath life back into my dead atomizer.

The answer is simple cheap and clean
1)Just an overnight soak in jewelery dip cleaner.
2)Then drop the atomizer into a cup and pour on boiling water to rinse.
3)Dab dry the atomizer on a paper towel and blow through it to expel all water.
4)Drop 2 to 3 drops of e-liquid into the atomizer to prime it.
5)Repeat steps 1 to 4 every 4 to 5 days to keep your atomizer in top condition.

Job done

surbitonPete · 04-08-2009, 09:23 PM

Hey kinbaloo.....I think the problem with the liquid residue build up is that it is the 'oily' component of the juice that simply doesn't vaporize as easily as the rest....gradually that thicker oil builds up in the wicking mesh and even in the cart if it is being drip refilled all the time.....and that is why almost any washing method or new cart materials seems to improve performance.
I have used an instant heat soldering iron and kept on dipping it in a little pot of fluid and found out as I vaporize it away the juice keeps on getting thicker and oilier, proving the theory....... The black gunk builds up on the side of the soldering iron. If you can afford the juice this is a good way of making your own black gunk for experimenting with cleaners without having to strip down an atomizer.

Tin Cup · 04-09-2009, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by surbitonPete

I have used an instant heat soldering iron and kept on dipping it in a little pot of fluid and found out as I vaporize it away the juice keeps on getting thicker and oilier, proving the theory....... The black gunk builds up on the side of the soldering iron.

Good thinking, Pete. This may be a good way of finding out what the residue is made of. By sticking the iron into straight PG and straight VG, I wonder if you get any "black gunk".

I don't have a soldering iron, maybe somebody can try this and see what happens? It would help us understand what the gunk consists of, and then maybe we can figure out how to get rid of it.

TC

misantroll · 04-10-2009, 01:36 AM

lemon juice baby yeah

Hangar · 04-11-2009, 04:34 AM

This atomizer cleaning stuff is something i really need some hand holding with. Ive tried it once before and killed it. I ran one of my atomizers under very hot running water from the sink while holding it with a tweezer and letting the hot water run into the battery end of the atomizer. I then blew it out several times with my mouth and let it sit overnite to dry...the next day when i tried to fire it up it was dead...i dont know what i did wrong but needless to say that now i am very hesitant to try anything more than just setting it upside down for a few hours.

I've only been at this vaping for just over a week now and id like to try and give it a good cleaning at least 1x/week in alcohol. Can someone please explain to me how far i need to dip it into the solution?....do i dip only the tip of the wick? ( i have a 401 w/exposed atomizer)...do i dip the entire wick?, or should i just drop the whole darn thing into a cup of it so its 100% submerged??...im kinda lost about this. Then after i dip it do i wash it off in water? (i was told NOT to use any water).

If anyone knows of any video links to view this in action please post here!

Thank you!

Idahojo · 04-11-2009, 04:55 AM

I thought I killed one of mine too but it was still just wet. I went back later and it as fine. Hope you didn't throw it away. I have a penstyle and just discovered soaking it in a strong citric acid mixture really helped it. The jury is still out on what is the best thing to do. Right now all we know is it is best to rotate them out with other atomizers, let them drain at night, and wash them periodically. The way I look at it is if I can even extend the life somewhat with what I'm doing, I'm money ahead.

04-08-2009, 03:00 PM	#1
kinabaloo ECF Veteran Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: london uk / beijing china Posts: 3,306	Cleaning the atomizer There are two types of solid deposit and one type of liquid residue that cleaning is being used for. Let's clarify these and what we know about each and what we can do about them. First the liquid residue. By this I mean the excess juice that gets to parts of the atomiser case where it is not used up. This is what draining each night is for. When people use compressed air or boiling then report improvement, this is what they have done - removed the excess juice fluid. Simple draining (place upside down on paper towel) is sufficient for this, whereas compressed air and boiling have inherent dangers. Second is simple dry residue. This forms when excess juice dries inside the atomiser. When it dries within the metal mesh wicking, it restricts both juice flow and air flow. Some would be removed by a soak or rinse in warm water. Or steam; but steam, like compressed air, risks mechanical damage to the coil and fine connecting wires. Baths that might help remove more dry residue incude detergent and alcohol but the best is probably a weak acid such as citric acid/lemon juice, vinegar and cola. Gently heated is better but boiling is risky (risks include overheating by contact with bottom of pan, bumping around and mechanical damage from bubbles). Third type is the hardened deposit on the heater coil itself. This is extremely difficult to remove when allowed to build up over weeks (preventative cleaning, of say once or twice per weak with a weak acid might help prevent this build up). It is formed of the dry deposit that originates from the juice (all those substances dissolved in the juice that will not evaporate when heated and are left behind, like limescale in a kettle). Although originally composed of dry residue from the juice, on the coil but mot the metal wick, the deposits are very likely chemically and structurally altered by repeated heating to become over time resistant to removal. This deposit is often the life-limiting factor for atomizers. Some hard-core experiments are being carried out to try to find a solution that is both effective and safe. These are not recommended for home use unless you are good at such things but there has been some success with hydrogen peroxide and, separately, concentrated phosphoric acid. But even with these, atomizers used for many weeks or months can still resist being fully cleaned.

04-08-2009, 09:12 PM	#5
Chuckle Brother Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 3	Simple overnight atomizer cleaning I have tried several methods quoted on here but without any significant effect. So i looked around my house to see what might breath life back into my dead atomizer. The answer is simple cheap and clean 1)Just an overnight soak in jewelery dip cleaner. 2)Then drop the atomizer into a cup and pour on boiling water to rinse. 3)Dab dry the atomizer on a paper towel and blow through it to expel all water. 4)Drop 2 to 3 drops of e-liquid into the atomizer to prime it. 5)Repeat steps 1 to 4 every 4 to 5 days to keep your atomizer in top condition. Job done

04-08-2009, 09:23 PM	#6
surbitonPete ECF Veteran Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: North Yorkshire UK Posts: 2,892	Hey kinbaloo.....I think the problem with the liquid residue build up is that it is the 'oily' component of the juice that simply doesn't vaporize as easily as the rest....gradually that thicker oil builds up in the wicking mesh and even in the cart if it is being drip refilled all the time.....and that is why almost any washing method or new cart materials seems to improve performance. I have used an instant heat soldering iron and kept on dipping it in a little pot of fluid and found out as I vaporize it away the juice keeps on getting thicker and oilier, proving the theory....... The black gunk builds up on the side of the soldering iron. If you can afford the juice this is a good way of making your own black gunk for experimenting with cleaners without having to strip down an atomizer. __________________ It's time to 'really' do something about changing this world for the better, click the link:- http://thevenusproject.com Last edited by surbitonPete; 04-08-2009 at 09:31 PM.

04-10-2009, 01:36 AM	#8
misantroll Full Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Lausanne, Switzerland Posts: 63	lemon juice baby yeah __________________ Vaping Aphex Style

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04-08-2009, 03:23 PM	#2
Lorddrek Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 230	Liquid Residue-I will blow my M401 atomizers out when they gurgle too much or dripping more juice does not improve the flavor. I am a fairly controlled dripper so this does not need to be done often. Dry Residue-I have been soaking my atomizer in rubbing alcohol after about a day of use. This improves wicking ability and flavor. I have 3 I rotate with so an overnight bath and all day dry works quite well for me. Hardened Deposits-Because I have 3 atomizers I don't think I have yet to reach this point. It is also very hard to even see the M401 coils. I continue to follow these threads in hopes for some sort of breakthru. I firmly believe that research on this important subject will soon yield positive results that will greatly improve atomizer life. If you can average 2 weeks to a month of life by not doing anything then imagine how long atomizers could last if they were actually cared for.

04-08-2009, 03:48 PM	#3
kinabaloo ECF Veteran Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: london uk / beijing china Posts: 3,306	Perhaps the longest we could hope for is around 1 year, but if we could reach a few months on average that would not be too bad. It's not just about atomizer lifetime - it is also about vape quality. The best thing one can do is find out how much dry residue is left by the juice(s) one uses and consider changing to ones with less.

04-08-2009, 07:08 PM	#4
exogenesis ὅπερ ἔδει δεῖξαι Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: UK Posts: 560	Well done, nice bit of clarity, especially for new readers

04-11-2009, 04:34 AM	#9
Hangar Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 250	This atomizer cleaning stuff is something i really need some hand holding with. Ive tried it once before and killed it. I ran one of my atomizers under very hot running water from the sink while holding it with a tweezer and letting the hot water run into the battery end of the atomizer. I then blew it out several times with my mouth and let it sit overnite to dry...the next day when i tried to fire it up it was dead...i dont know what i did wrong but needless to say that now i am very hesitant to try anything more than just setting it upside down for a few hours. I've only been at this vaping for just over a week now and id like to try and give it a good cleaning at least 1x/week in alcohol. Can someone please explain to me how far i need to dip it into the solution?....do i dip only the tip of the wick? ( i have a 401 w/exposed atomizer)...do i dip the entire wick?, or should i just drop the whole darn thing into a cup of it so its 100% submerged??...im kinda lost about this. Then after i dip it do i wash it off in water? (i was told NOT to use any water). If anyone knows of any video links to view this in action please post here! Thank you!

04-11-2009, 04:55 AM	#10
Idahojo ECF Veteran Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bonners Ferry, ID Posts: 1,680	I thought I killed one of mine too but it was still just wet. I went back later and it as fine. Hope you didn't throw it away. I have a penstyle and just discovered soaking it in a strong citric acid mixture really helped it. The jury is still out on what is the best thing to do. Right now all we know is it is best to rotate them out with other atomizers, let them drain at night, and wash them periodically. The way I look at it is if I can even extend the life somewhat with what I'm doing, I'm money ahead.