Reconstructing an atomizer

[crazyhorse]

I took apart a couple of DSE 801 atomizers simply to remove them from the outer casings. One went just as planned and the atomizer assembly released intact. The other atomizer didn't release from the casing in the same way, requiring resoldering of the wires to the battery connection. This went just fine and I have continuity from the center of the battery connector to the threads.

The problem is I can't get the atomizer to activate the battery now. When connected, a draw through the atomizer will not light up the batt LED. But unscrewing the batt by ¼ to ½ turn will light it up. I can't figure out why.

The wires are not color coded in red and green as I would expect. Both are red. If they were red and green, I would have connected the red one to the center of the batt connector and the green one to the side.

So, here comes the dumb question. Do I have this thing wiired backwards? I honestly don't understand what difference it would make since it's a circuit either way but I also can't understand the odd behavior with regard to the battery. With the exception of not knowing which wire was initially connected to which point, it's identically and perfectly reassembled. Several times now

[planetofthevapes]

It wouldn't matter if they were backwards. Even if it mattered which one was positive and which one was negative...the wires on the atomizer do not determine that, it is the wiring in the battery that does determine that. Wires are the same, just color coded for reference of the builders of the products. You don't HAVE to use a red wire as a positive on mods...but we do, because that's how the box starts out...if that makes any sense. Also, the way our attys work is by creating a controlled short (for lack of a better way to put it)...the nichrome wire (if that is in fact what they use) is connecting the positve and a negative and heating up as a result...it wouldn't matter if you had the positve connected on the right side of the coil or the left, just as long as you have a negative on one side and a positive on another. So, no, you did not mess up your pos and neg... It is strange though that it does not want to trigger the battery. That I cannot answer on, because that has never happened to me. It seems wierd that you are having to untwist a bit to get it to work, because you would think you would want it as snug as it can go....unless when you snapped it all back together you reloosened one of your solders? Then maybe easing up on it would straighten a wire back out and make it recontact inside the atty? I don't know if I'm making any sense to you at all I have a hard time explaining what is in my head! LOL. So, did you rebuild the coil while you were at it?

[crazyhorse]

I imagine the wires and solder joints are just fine because the continuity is consistent and equal to other atomizers I've checked.

It doesn't actually "work" when I loosen it that partial turn, it just lights up the LED. It does the same thing whether it's in or out of the casing.

OTOH, another set of bare atomizer innards will light the LED under a draw but not when it's being unscrewed from the battery. Again, whether it's in or out of the casing.

No, I didn't mess with the coil.

[Catanonia]

Earthing issues ?

[crazyhorse]

Hmmm. Being somewhat a dummy when it comes to electricity, I can't quite wrap my head around how and where this could happen. The problem exists even when the positive lead is all stretched out with no visible means of being shorted to ground.

Edit: This thing baffles me. I find this atomizer can light the battery LED when the threads are barely in contact. From this point, two full turns (720°) of rotation are required to fully seat the battery in the atomizer yet the battery functions normally with any other atomizer.

[kinabaloo]

Might well be that the thin clear rubbery grommet-like seal around the center contact has a small tear in it.

It can wear out, especially with over-tightening, and also be damaged (melted) when soldering the center wire.

[crazyhorse]

That makes sense kinabaloo. Although it appears to be intact (from the inside) the center contact may very well be shorted to the threads. Will you please explain to me any procedure for inspection and repair of this fault? Thank you.

[kinabaloo]

That makes sense kinabaloo. Although it appears to be intact (from the inside) the center contact may very well be shorted to the threads. Will you please explain to me any procedure for inspection and repair of this fault? Thank you.

I didn't say before because it's tricky; I don't know a good solution.

The center part pops out and is normally covered in a plastic wrapper/seal (tight fitting elastic tube). So I guess, it's a matter of finding something to replace that rubbery bit and then reassemble.

That plastic covering can be seen around the centre contact - looks like a clear plastic washer. It is a bit springy and allows the center contact to be ressed inwards slightly to facilitate a good electrical contact.

[crazyhorse]

It's good to learn all about how these things are put together. That soft gasket appears to be fully intact. I disconnected the positive wire to check out how the center section of the battery terminal comes out but I haven't completely removed it yet.

Interesting thing is even with the positive disconnected and the terminal pushed most of the way out of the fitting and rubber gasket, the battery LED still lights up when contacting the threads.

It sure isn't worth the cost of an atomizer to goof with this thing but knowing how and why they work, and being able to completely repair them, may be very valuable at some time. Thanks for your help.

[kinabaloo]

Really not sure; perhaps the problem is with the battery?