Heating coil as clean method - pics and a new discovery

[kinabaloo]

I have been investigating temperature control of the atty coil. This involves having the heater coil out of the atty casing and on a breadboard; so I can see the coil clearly and visually see it get hot - and mostly I'm running it red-hot and yellow hot - approaching white hot at times. Perhaps 15-20 seconds at longest.

Was not investigating cleaning, but ...

Then, taking some pictures to illustrate the temperature control experiments, lo and behold I see that the coil is really very clean - especially the inner wick; this never cleaned with any liquid, always remained black.

You'll notice that the coil is not shiny, but it has no deposit other than a very thin oxide (presumably); which is quite normal.

I am quite stunned by this.

Then I noticed something else - that the solder blobs have a hole where the nichrome enters the blob. And it seems to be that the hot wire has caused the solder to recede.

This might sometimes lead to atty failure but in the under 2 months use bracket, most failures seem to be due to wire snap due to deposit buildup; I still think that this is the majority case.

As far as tin getting into the deposit, I dont't think this is because of the solder melting around the nichrome alone, but also some electro-chemical action - because only tin was found in the deposit - no copper or silver.

The tin component of the deposit (about 3%) is not likely to be burned off and may be part of the reason why the coil is not shiny. Whether this tin coating might affect the resistance of the coil over time is unknown, but quite possible.

[breakfastchef]

You findings make a good argument against all of those who claimed the cleaning cycle of an e-cig is a bad thing. The designers and manufacturers knew what they were doing. This may significantly simplify our atomizer maintenance. While soaking attys in various beverages may help to clear out flavors of vaping past, coil cleaning really is best performed with heating. Great stuff!!

[kinabaloo]

ps: I don't think the solder blob melting is a concern for the heating coil to clean it approach - as this probably occurs during normal operation many times a day though briefly (that the coil will get red-hot or hotter when the coil becomes dry).

pps: Although in the most recent testing I was feeding the coil with a square wave at around 200Hz, I don't think the frequency of heating has anything to do with the cleaning - just the heating itself (feasibly might make it a little more effective though?).

[kinabaloo]

Originally Posted by breakfastchef

You findings make a good argument against all of those who claimed the cleaning cycle of an e-cig is a bad thing. The designers and manufacturers knew what they were doing. This may significantly simplify our atomizer maintenance. While soaking attys in various beverages may help to clear out flavors of vaping past, coil cleaning really is best performed with heating. Great stuff!!

I have seen merit in this approach for some time, but was nevertheless surprised to see the effect close up - especially as that was not my aim!

Dry residues from juices burn and harden on the coil but also settle elsewhere (particularly the metal foam) diminishing juice flow and even air flow when dry in the hole behind the atty; so a simple wash out with warm distilled water soak now and then can still be useful.

As to the 'in built cleaning cycle', what we are finding (and SurbitonPete's the main man on this) is that it needs to be done roughly daily; any less and when it is done the deposit is already too thick, heat insulating the coil and possibly causing wire melt (failure).

So as a cleaning method it is best only used with a new atty, daily; for about 10 seconds, with battery and not a passthrough. There are lots of variables; might kill off an atty, especially one that has been used for some time already.

The main thread discussing this effect as a cleaning method is: Getting Annoyed : This is an effective method of prolonging atomisers

[emus]

Extensive thermal cycling will cause embrittlement.

Do the failed coils break easily when bent?

[HockerMagnum]

I have had 2 atomizers fail and in both I found the coil wire to be very brittle. Both coils had opened away from the solder joint.

I don't know what solder formula is used in these but I was able to desolder one joint with a 135W soldering pen.

[kinabaloo]

Originally Posted by HockerMagnum

I have had 2 atomizers fail and in both I found the coil wire to be very brittle. Both coils had opened away from the solder joint.

I don't know what solder formula is used in these but I was able to desolder one joint with a 135W soldering pen.

Probably standard lead-free solder; tin with a little copper.

[crazyhorse]

Originally Posted by kinabaloo

So as a cleaning method it is best only used with a new atty, daily; for about 10 seconds, with battery and not a passthrough.

Would you recommend a lower voltage battery for this cleaning. By lower voltage, I mean one that is drained below 3.5v.

[Closet Toker]

I clean burn the coil on my 901's. I do this several times per week. I can tell when I need to do it, 'cause the atty. gets very hot, but produces little vapor. It works great for me. I have a manual switch, I blow out any excess liquid, and burn the coil for about 8 secs. with the coil being cherry red.
The voltage is around 3.7 volts.

Vapor production is back to normal.

[Vaporer]

Nice demonstration.

When heated above normal the wire should swell a bit, then shrink as it cools.
This would allow deposits to crack away and any cleaning, blowing should remove the debris.

As far as the solder receding...normally it would have air passing by it in a juice cup. Looking at your pic the solder joint and connecting wire , being larger, will act as a heat sink and I doubt it melts when drawing a puff.

Yes, nichrome wire will lightly oxidize on the surface and long term high heat and cooling will make the wire more brittle than new over time and cycles. As the cleaning occurs the carbon will pull some of the oxide off making a thinner weak spot as a new oxide layer forms.

You can buy 6% silver solder, lead free, at Radio Shack and other places.
It does have a higher temp rating.

Your test is a good one but I think its cooler than that when being used due to the airflow across it.

Tony