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Sattec's atty cleaning test thread in Tips and Tricks; Originally Posted by sattec you gonna break the coil with too much air pressure, you better be careful. The best ...
  1. #151
    Super Member ECF Veteran KonaNeil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sattec View Post
    you gonna break the coil with too much air pressure, you better be careful. The best preclean is to blow it out 10 times before you soak it, blow it out using the batt port and your mouth...
    I've been using compressed air to alleviate flooding and before and after wash for 4 months. Have never broken a coil.

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  3. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by sattec View Post
    you gonna break the coil with too much air pressure, you better be careful. The best preclean is to blow it out 10 times before you soak it, blow it out using the batt port and your mouth...
    Quote Originally Posted by KonaNeil View Post
    I've been using compressed air to alleviate flooding and before and after wash for 4 months. Have never broken a coil.
    It's a good point the sattec makes, you have to be careful with canned air. I always give a light squeeze when I spray around the coil. Plus canned air can spray out REALLY cold sometimes and that extreme cold could contract the coil to the point of breakage. SO . . . use with caution.

    I like it because you can get the straw right up to the bridge and blast out all the crappy juice. I used exposed bridge atty's, it's easier than say your 901, 801, or 510 recessed bridge styles. Personal preference I guess.

    Jason

  4. #153
    Super Member ECF Veteran sattec's Avatar
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    on a dse 801, your actually trying to clean out the mesh, the side channels not the center hole is the problem area. The center is usually pretty clear because it's so large, those side channels are very small and plug up easy. Try blowing canned air backwards thru the side channels, that shoulld really help get the junk out. Report your findings please....

  5. #154
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    I wouldn't use the canned air. The least component in canned air is air. It contains so much hydrocarbon propellent that it's almost dangerous to use. Look at all the warning labels on the can. Canned ait is not really canned air. The latest craze for kids is sniffing canned air. They get high off of it. A lot of them have died.

    Kevin

  6. #155
    Registered Supplier ECF Veteran moogvo's Avatar
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    I have found a way to avoid the LONG rinse and dry process. This seems to work well after having tried it on several attys...

    Do the Crest bath as noted in this thread. then, run your sink tap as hot as you can put your fingers in. Don't burn yourself!!!

    Rinse the atty (cartridge end up). The water cannot drain as fast as it can go in, so fill it with water, then blow it out with your mouth. Repeat several times. You are basically using force to rinse your atty out.

    Then blow into both ends of it (or use compressed air... just be careful not to blow compressed air directly into the atty... There is a lot of force and something inside can probably be blown apart...

    Then, what I do to avoid waiting for the thing to dry (I am impatient in the EXTREME!!! This is why I don't do auto body work! LOL!) I breathe in through the atty cartridge end... Hard to describe... Think of it like breathing through a straw... Several LONG breaths in and it seems to have dried rather well...

    Now, I prime the atty with glycerin and hook a battery up and start drawing like a madman on it. If I feel the atty getting warm bot no vapor, I add a couple of more drops and repeat. I get a fresh primed atty in less than 20 minutes start to finish and it has worked on every atty I have tried it on.

    Hope someone finds this to be helpful!
    Tom Moog/Secure shopping at www.esmokersupply.com

  7. #156
    Super Member ECF Veteran bluesuede's Avatar
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    Default Thank you, sattec!

    I cleaned out some of my 801 attys using your Crest method. Worked like a charm to perk up some sluggish ones. I'm surprised they weren't all that dirty though because I vape a lot. These are my original ones from 9/28/09 and they work like new.

    I'd like to try some pure grain alcohol instead of water for the rinse but haven't a clue where to get it. Lowes? Tractor Supply? Oh duh...
    EM801, M401, KR8/DPV9/VK, Indulgence 3.7v & 6v, 510/LR510/510 cartomizers, RiVa, Leo.
    Smoke-free since 9/21/2009!

  8. #157
    Super Member ECF Veteran sattec's Avatar
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    the reason some get different result is the juice. It's all just alittle different. There's a few other factors but the juice type and ingredients is a big factor, good luck everybody! I was happy to serve!

  9. #158
    Full Member DapperDan's Avatar
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    I just wanted to report that using the crest wash with the 15 minutes of shaking resulted in paint chips coming off the sides of my 510 attys. I threw two into a small tupperware container and found tons of dings on the sides of them. Didn't shake like a madman either. A light swoosh would be a good description. The only thing different that I did do was that I soaked them over night in the crest.

  10. #159
    Super Member ECF Veteran sattec's Avatar
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    soaking overnight is not recommended, been there, done that. I revised the soak time to 7 minutes if you blow out the prime before you rinse in pro-h.

  11. #160
    Full Member DapperDan's Avatar
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    Ahhh, gotcha. Just fired up one and the thing works like a champ...sooo it didn't kill it, just did something to the paint job...haha.

    This may be a personal preference of mine, but after the crest soak (have done it several times, only once overnight) I like to boil them for about 15 minutes or so. I find it gets the mouthwash smell and the "blueish" tint off the wick. So far, boiling after has worked flawlessly for me.

    I think I'm going to start looking into "non-toxic" and "green" cleaners...

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